The Slimer Build Thread

Got the side markers installed. It's much colder today... Also put JB Weld over the gap made by trimming my rear pinch seam. Didn't get a picture of the pinch seam, since it was so cold my phone said "Too cold to use flash", but here's the side markers...
 
Apparently photo uploading isn't working right now, it won't give me the option to attach a photo after selecting it.
 
Very clean install on the turn signal/side marker lights! The jeep is coming together nicely :thumb:
 
Thanks Greg! I used the dremel plastic cutting disc, placed it behind the plastic, and pulled it towards myself to cut the semi-circle out of the plastic. Perfect radius compared to the light!
 
Prime8 said:
Thanks! Hoping to have it ready to apply for the JK Experience this year. My wife and I would LOVE to be invited...
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The build looks good, I am hoping to have mine built up enough to sign up for the JKX as well

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
 
Prime8 said:
Got the "crunching" fixed today. The johnny joints weren't vertical enough and were grinding against the brackets when flexing. Also got the Reel 1350 front shaft installed.
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So to fix this did you just loosen the lock nut and rotate the joint a few degrees or was it something more involved?

Dave
 
Dave - since the dealer installed it, I had them fix their issue... Haha. But they twisted the johnny joints so they were more vertical to keep them from rubbing on the brackets. I believe they also cycles the suspension. It worked! No more noise.

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With 37"s and trimmed fenders, does anything else need trimmed? I trimmed the little triangle of pinch seam off the front of the rear wheel wells, but after posting this picture on the 1/4 Pounder thread, I noticed the pinch seam in the front looks dangerously close. Anyone know if more trimming is necessary?
 
ChrisB said:
That's not even close, the axle moves forward when you stuff anyhow


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Ok, cool. Thanks Chris. And in the rear wheel wells, just that triangle at the front of the well is necessary, right?
 
Prime8 said:
Ok, cool. Thanks Chris. And in the rear wheel wells, just that triangle at the front of the well is necessary, right?
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You might need to take more out, you need to flex out the suspension. I cut, (fanned) the pinch seam and rolled it in.
 
Hock Edition said:
what all do you need to install the skins. tool wise?
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Good drill bits (dewalt titanium worked the best, till they dulled), nutsert tool (harbor freight green handle one worked fine for $16. I went through 2 of them, but got a full refund), silicone for sealing skins to body (RTV silicone worked best), touch up paint, wrenches/sockets, Allen keys, hammer.

I contacted EVO and asked for the install instructions before even placing my order to know what I was in for and to plan out the install and make sure I had all necessary equipment. I highly recommend reading the install instructions NUMEROUS times before purchasing anything that requires this much time and precision. Not a whole lot of "oops" room in EVOs products, which is a good thing in the end. Makes for a very solid product.
 
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ChrisB said:
You might need to take more out, you need to flex out the suspension. I cut, (fanned) the pinch seam and rolled it in.
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Can you take a pic or two and post them here for me to see where you cut and how much? These tires were so damn expensive that I want to make sure I'm good before hitting the trails!

Sent from my ADR6350 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
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