Ratcheting/Clicking noise help

I would get the CV style. I think the only advantage to the OE style is you don't have to replace the yokes. That only takes a few minutes with an impact gun and a torque wrench.
 
Beyrgut said:
I would get the CV style. I think the only advantage to the OE style is you don't have to replace the yokes. That only takes a few minutes with an impact gun and a torque wrench.
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If your splines aren't rusty. Mine were and I had a hell of a time getting the axle side yoke off.
 
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Looks like I'll be getting the CV style driveshaft, rear upper control arms, and a gear puller to get the yokes off. Thanks everyone for the help. Really appreciate it. :beer:
 
Well thought I had it licked. Guess not. I still have the ratcheting sound.

I bought a new front DS and when I left the place I had the noise. Here is how it went down.

Took it to the DS shop. The only thing they do is drive shafts. 100% made in the USA parts etc.. Nice place.

He put my jeep on the rack and inspected both shafts. The front was spitting grease and the boot had a slit and there were some metal shavings in the grease inside the boot so we did the front.

They took the old one off took some measurements and told me to come back tomorrow afternoon for the install

So when I left the shop I didn't have the sound because everything was warmed up. It was 72 that day.

The next day I get inside the jeep crank it up and as soon as I drive down the road I hear the ratcheting sound.

I get to the shop and tell the guy and he inspects the shaft and doesn't find anything wrong with it (without taking it off).

He has it on the rack lifts the rear end cranks it up to see if there is a sound and nothing.

He moves forward and installs the front and tells me to drop the rear shaft and see if it still makes the noise.

So on the way home since today was 82 it didn't make the noise that much on the way home but I still have the sound. Next month I may have enough in my pocket to do the rear. I will keep you posted.
 
OverlanderJK said:
You probably should have started with the rear first since you need that to drive.
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I hear you. When the guy took the nut off of my yoke it was a little stubborn. He grabbed his puller and the yoke just fell off the shaft coming out of the transfer case. Air tools make anything look easy.
 
JEEPnGEO said:
I hear you. When the guy took the nut off of my yoke it was a little stubborn. He grabbed his puller and the yoke just fell off the shaft coming out of the transfer case. Air tools make anything look easy.
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I hear ya! Having an 80 gallon compressor and air tools available to me makes working on the jeep so much nicer.
 
Thanks fellers for the replies. On a shade tree mechanic scale I am a 8.5.. I use to disassemble engines rebuild long blocks etc. I just dont have access to bad ass tools anymore and its been 25 years. I never really did touch front end work. I know what the shoulder of the joont is just never had one that needed so much work. Got to

I understand. The back isnt making noise has no play and the boot is not torn. The front was about to fall off. It was bad. I am trying to see if I can get the back done next week.

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Those of you running after market shafts, are you running a 1310 or 1350 size for the front shaft? Is there any reason to run a 1350 size up front on a stock engine with a sport transfer case? Also regarding the adjustment of the pinion angle, do you want to have the pinion parallel to the ground or do you want the pinion in line with the angle of the shaft?
 
I run the 1310 with the pinion parallel to the ground. I think JE reel recommends 1310 for 35's up to 6" of lift. The 1350 for larger tires.
 
904Jeep said:
Those of you running after market shafts, are you running a 1310 or 1350 size for the front shaft? Is there any reason to run a 1350 size up front on a stock engine with a sport transfer case? Also regarding the adjustment of the pinion angle, do you want to have the pinion parallel to the ground or do you want the pinion in line with the angle of the shaft?
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I think the rear pinion should be angled up a bit to match the DS. If you have the diff level, the push of the DS under the skinny pedal pushes down on the front of the pinion yoke and pushes on the bearing in there. If the diff matches the DS than the force applied to the DS goes right through to the pinion to the ring gear. Less stress on the bearings.


Not sure about the front. It is not used 99.9% of the time but it does spin when you are driving so I guess you want it angled a little bit.


I got mine from this place.
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/
He is local to San Antonio and he deals only American parts. He custom makes every DS.
 
904Jeep said:
Those of you running after market shafts, are you running a 1310 or 1350 size for the front shaft? Is there any reason to run a 1350 size up front on a stock engine with a sport transfer case?
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I think it is more a function of what size tires you are running. Generally people recommend 1350 if you plan on 37s or bigger. That said I've been running my 1310 front DS with my 37s for about 30K miles now. I had originally not planned on anything bigger than 35s and never bothered to switch it.
 
jeeeep said:
another way to check is to lift all four wheels off the ground make sure you put it on jack stands and the tires are not touching the ground start it up and put it in four high and idling should turn it enough that you'll be able to hear it
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The drive shaft shop raised my jeep on the lift before doing anything and put it in 4 wheel high. Had all 4 wheels running at a scary speed and no ratcheting noise. 2 wheel high and no noise. Drove it around the block heard the noise and then took off the front. It only made noise under heavy load. He then took off the front and took that rvvvvr (what ever it's called) and it was comming apart big time. So I got the front replaced. I still have to get the back done. The rear only makes a slight clicking noise.
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I'd also like to add that mine did not make any clicking sounds when on jack stands but did so once back on the ground. Also my front driveshaft made clicking sounds, was spitting grease along the tub and skids, however there was NO tear in the boot at the upper joint nor was there excessive play. Meanwhile the rear shaft still clicks, has no tears, no grease splatters, and no excessive play. Even though I am now replacing both shafts, it still goes to show that a failing C.V. will not always present the visible signs.
 
Got the second drive shaft in yesterday and NO MORE RATCHETING NOISE. The first to go out was the front drive shaft then the rear shaft. Such a relief. The rear did not have a ripped boot and was bands were secured to the shaft but had almost no grease. There was no grease under my rig and no signs of it leaking. His thought was the factory may not have placed enough grease in the joint when it was manufactured. It was only one of them. I don't know if it was the front one or the back. One of them had a lot of grease in it.


Ratcheting=DRY BALLS
 
While I was under my jeep for the last oil change I notices just a few spatters of grease from the Rzeppa joint on the output if my T case feeding the front drive shaft.

No noises an no idea how long it's been there.

Installed a TF leveling kit about 14 months ago, or 38,000km. Jeep has 147,000 Kms on it.

I've wiped clean the bit of grease I saw to see if it comes back a I have no idea when it showed up.

Anyone here had any luck replacing their Rzeppa joint? I see Q tech and 4WP sell a kit to do so. Looks like $130 or so....keep me going until I can upgrade is the thought process.

No plans to push further then say 2.5" kit some day and only mild wheeling almost all DD.

Boot on this shaft looks fine no rips, tears, leaks, or seeping.

No cause for concern now, just want to be ready for when I need to be.


Thanks
 
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Started as a small vibration and within seconds a howl/grind and she was done. Clunk until I got pulled over.
 
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