Ratcheting/Clicking noise help

If it's ratcheting now, I wouldn't wait till it breaks. While it most likely will not go catastrophically, if it does, it'll beat the bottom of your tub and anything around it hard.
 
If it's ratcheting now, I wouldn't wait till it breaks. While it most likely will not go catastrophically, if it does, it'll beat the bottom of your tub and anything around it hard.

What are the possible breakage scenario? It'll let loose and start breaking stuff or it'll just fail right?
 
What are the possible breakage scenario? It'll let loose and start breaking stuff or it'll just fail right?

Just before it fails, it'll go from ratcheting to howling and if you're lucky, you'll still be able to pull over to the side of the road. If you're going fast and can 't pull over in time, the bearings can seize up. If I could guess, your shaft will barber poll before the joint shatters.
 
Just before it fails, it'll go from ratcheting to howling and if you're lucky, you'll still be able to pull over to the side of the road. If you're going fast and can 't pull over in time, the bearings can seize up. If I could guess, your shaft will barber poll before the joint shatters.

Cool thought so.
 
I FOUND IT!!!!!!!

It is that Stock CV Joint (rvvvv or what ever it is called) I took my rear DS off and drove around the block and no noise. I put it back on and took the front off and man those bolts were tight!!!!!!!! I had the sound. Both my shafts were a little lose not bad so I guess I just started.
Time to find some shafts....
The dash lights up when you drive around with one shaft. I wouldn't do it to much if you don't need to.
 
I FOUND IT!!!!!!!

It is that Stock CV Joint (rvvvv or what ever it is called) I took my rear DS off and drove around the block and no noise. I put it back on and took the front off and man those bolts were tight!!!!!!!! I had the sound. Both my shafts were a little lose not bad so I guess I just started.
Time to find some shafts....
The dash lights up when you drive around with one shaft. I wouldn't do it to much if you don't need to.

finally...Eddie called it on page 1 lol... but you found it, now time to order new shafts and fix it - don't forget to use the forum discount from Northridge :beer:
 
Is it the rear upper or lower adjustable control arms that are needed when putting on an aftermarket driveshaft
 
For adjusting it would be ideal to have all adjustable....BUT if your trying to save money and keeping as many stock arms as possible, and want to adjust your axle when lifted...for front its the lowers and for rear its uppers.
 
I just didn't have the signs, broken boots, grease leaking, slack and knocking. I only have 32,000 miles on my jeep.

Since I did the 4 inch lift

My plan was to get the control arms (haven't dome that yet, didn't know the DS's were going to fail)

Then get the Drive Shafts.

Since my priority now are the drive shafts, will it make a difference that I still have to get the control arms. I don't want to get longer DS after I get new control arms.

I don't plan on getting a long arm setup or anything.


Thanks for any assistance.
 
I just didn't have the signs, broken boots, grease leaking, slack and knocking. I only have 32,000 miles on my jeep.

Since I did the 4 inch lift

My plan was to get the control arms (haven't dome that yet, didn't know the DS's were going to fail)

Then get the Drive Shafts.

Since my priority now are the drive shafts, will it make a difference that I still have to get the control arms. I don't want to get longer DS after I get new control arms.

I don't plan on getting a long arm setup or anything.


Thanks for any assistance.

I only got 20k out of my stock shaft. You won't need a longer shaft just because you get adjustable control arms.
 
I see JE Reel has both C.V. and OE Replacement style driveshafts. Are there advantages/disadvantages to using either style, and which would be best suited for a 3" lift and 35's.
 
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