Edelbrock Supercharger Dyno

Umm. I come from years of tuned Audi's. Y'all are crazy. On 35s with 4.88s those are solid numbers. Put it back on street tires/stock gearing & those numbers would go way up. I'm impressed.
 
If a programmer could yield real world results on the 3.6 that were truly transformative or even noticeable that would be fantastic. 30 hp is very noticeable. My guess is that what you pick up would be hardly noticeable and may be more placebo than anything else. I dont find the supercharger figures to be fantastic either but comparing a programmer to the blower is ridiculous.

I wasn't comparing the programmer to the supercharger. I said I would rather buy a programmer and save a shit ton of money compared to the super charger. I feel like even the programmers are a waste of money, thats why I just have the flashcal.
 
:twocents:I'm thinking the final numbers are about what should be expected for reliable power. A stock Pentastar has plenty off road but can use the boost when towing and running on high mountain passes. This may be the closest thing to plug and play yet. Curious to see how it holds up. All the best for the long haul.:yup:
 
I'll have to disagree on the Pentastar mountain pass, towing comment and the need for a supercharger. If you set it up right when you add the larger tires, like re-gear it correctly, then traveling the passes and towing will not be an issue. I wholly agree the 3.8's need the bump. The 3.6's on the other hand, I'll take a pass on the $6K accessory.
 
I'll have to disagree on the Pentastar mountain pass, towing comment and the need for a supercharger. If you set it up right when you add the larger tires, like re-gear it correctly, then traveling the passes and towing will not be an issue. I wholly agree the 3.8's need the bump. The 3.6's on the other hand, I'll take a pass on the $6K accessory.

Pretty obvious that there are different expectations on what $6k buys and how much HP is "enough". Most guys used to modding other cars would be happy with a 75 whp bump for $6k. No, it's not a Hemi or an LS BUT it's $20,000 cheaper.
 
Quick question to anyone who actually has done an engine swap in their California registered Jeep. How do you get it to pass emissions inspections? How do you get it smogged? I looked into an engine swap between two different vehicle platforms several years ago. There are many rules and restrictions in California. I just don't see how an LS engine (out of a car or truck) can go into an SUV (Jeep) without getting gaffled up in breaking some smog rules. Example: no truck motors into cars, and no older motors into newer cars. Also there is that pesky bi-annual smog check. Trying to get "funnycar" smoggs is a royal PITA!!! And having to get 'em every two years definitely does suck. How are you guys that have done swaps in Calli getting your Jeeps smogged and registered?
 
Quick question to anyone who actually has done an engine swap in their California registered Jeep. How do you get it to pass emissions inspections? How do you get it smogged? I looked into an engine swap between two different vehicle platforms several years ago. There are many rules and restrictions in California. I just don't see how an LS engine (out of a car or truck) can go into an SUV (Jeep) without getting gaffled up in breaking some smog rules. Example: no truck motors into cars, and no older motors into newer cars. Also there is that pesky bi-annual smog check. Trying to get "funnycar" smoggs is a royal PITA!!! And having to get 'em every two years definitely does suck. How are you guys that have done swaps in Calli getting your Jeeps smogged and registered?

I'm in the process of scoping this now. The big issues are like model motors so car to car. In this case you can't swap a 1 ton motor into the jeep because it's not like model. Second big thing is year to year for "emissions". So in my case it's a 2013 so I need a 2013 or newer motor to swap into it. Outside of those "big" things you need to make sure you pass smog, have all the required sensors, emissions requirements, etc. once you swap you have a referee inspect and set your vin and keep up with new papers. That way you shouldn't have any issues in the future. Keep in mind with CA laws and gov't you may have to jump through more or less hoops to get it done. Now and in the future.
 
Pretty obvious that there are different expectations on what $6k buys and how much HP is "enough". Most guys used to modding other cars would be happy with a 75 whp bump for $6k. No, it's not a Hemi or an LS BUT it's $20,000 cheaper.

I absolutely agree that if I had a 3.8, the investment is well worth it. But with the 3.6, there's plenty of power to go around, for what I use it for. I may change my mind at some point and consider the Edelbrock, but not until some of the issues I've read here have been cleared up.
 
I absolutely agree that if I had a 3.8, the investment is well worth it. But with the 3.6, there's plenty of power to go around, for what I use it for. I may change my mind at some point and consider the Edelbrock, but not until some of the issues I've read here have been cleared up.

The RIPP supercharger looks good.

I have the 3.6 - and sometimes it works. When it does, it doesn't have enough power and the economy is terrible.

The speed limit here is 75 mph. Higher is some areas. Driving under 75 is dangerous and will cause an accident. The 3.6 is always shifting into 3rd from 5th just to try to keep up with the driving lane. Forget about the passing lane. Those kind of speeds in 3rd gear get you 12 mpg, or less.
 
The RIPP supercharger looks good.

I have the 3.6 - and sometimes it works. When it does, it doesn't have enough power and the economy is terrible.

The speed limit here is 75 mph. Higher is some areas. Driving under 75 is dangerous and will cause an accident. The 3.6 is always shifting into 3rd from 5th just to try to keep up with the driving lane. Forget about the passing lane. Those kind of speeds in 3rd gear get you 12 mpg, or less.

Just curious what tires and gears you are running?

I just got home from a 2500mi road trip from San Francisco to Seattle and back with a weekend of wheeling in Tillamook.

Most of the highway time was spent with the cruise set at 70-80 and the 3.6 ran like a champ. I have 37s and 5.13s and it is a great combo. Only was shifting into third on the really steep hills which wasn't very often. Most grades it would pull just fine in OD with the occasional shift to 4th.
 
Just curious what tires and gears you are running?

I just got home from a 2500mi road trip from San Francisco to Seattle and back with a weekend of wheeling in Tillamook.

Most of the highway time was spent with the cruise set at 70-80 and the 3.6 ran like a champ. I have 37s and 5.13s and it is a great combo. Only was shifting into third on the really steep hills which wasn't very often. Most grades it would pull just fine in OD with the occasional shift to 4th.

I've got the 3.6 with 37's and 5:13's as well. I've had no issues running at highway speeds and through the mountains, even at Tillamook a few weeks ago too. I concur that's a good combination.
 
I don't buy it.

I recently talked to someone that claimed they got 22 mph in their Unlimited Sport with 37's and 3.21's. Well, I know better than that.

These engines do not get "good" mileage above about 60, maybe 65.

Modified or stock.

I have never been impressed with the power or mileage. Not weigh factory tires, not with 3.73's, not with 4.10's etc.

This is my 2nd 4 dr Rubicon. I've driven at high altitude and sea level.

As far as power and economy (drivability) there is a lot to be desired.
 
I don't buy it.

I recently talked to someone that claimed they got 22 mph in their Unlimited Sport with 37's and 3.21's. Well, I know better than that.

Well I admit 37" on 3.21 will be slow but I'm sure they can hit 22 mph....now 22 mpg they must have Diesel with a magical unicorn pushing it.
 
The guys in my club got 18 to 22 running 75 to 85mph our last trip they all run 35 duratracs with 3.73s or 4.10. Meanwhile I have the 3.8 auto with 37s and 3.73, getting 13 to 16 city and keeping it at 72 and below mph. If your jeep is getting 12 you must live in the mountains and have a lead foot.

I don't see how this is better than ripp or magnuson who have proven themselves on JKs and I believe push out better numbers.
 
The guys in my club got 18 to 22 running 75 to 85mph our last trip they all run 35 duratracs with 3.73s or 4.10. Meanwhile I have the 3.8 auto with 37s and 3.73, getting 13 to 16 city and keeping it at 72 and below mph. If your jeep is getting 12 you must live in the mountains and have a lead foot.

I don't see how this is better than ripp or magnuson who have proven themselves on JKs and I believe push out better numbers.

From what I understand, the RIPP gives all around better performance. I haven't looked into the Magnuson enough to comment.

I enjoy driving fast and you can do it (sort of) in a Jeep. If you drive your Jeep like a Formula 1 car you will get the mileage of a Formula 1 car.
 
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