Coming up to Speed With Grubbicon

[Grubbicon]

Yesterday I put my track bar on temporarily. I ended up just tacking the factor mount back on the frame and the mount artec supplies for the axle in the kit. That should allow me to come up with the measurements I need on the driver side and then just replicate it for the passenger side. Then after the passenger side tower is in make a permanent mount for the frame side.


My Ruff Stuff diff covers also showed up today. Here is the picture of the one for the sterling.

 

[swampdog]

Yesterday I put my track bar on temporarily. I ended up just tacking the factor mount back on the frame and the mount artec supplies for the axle in the kit. That should allow me to come up with the measurements I need on the driver side and then just replicate it for the passenger side. Then after the passenger side tower is in make a permanent mount for the frame side.
View attachment 180191View attachment 180192View attachment 180193

My Ruff Stuff diff covers also showed up today. Here is the picture of the one for the sterling.
View attachment 180194View attachment 180195

Are those diff covers new? Welding looks good, but finish looks a little ruff.

SWIDT?^^^^^^

 

[Grubbicon]

Are those diff covers new? Welding looks good, but finish looks a little ruff.

SWIDT?^^^^^^

Lol good one. Ruff stuff has had the covers for a long time at least I believe. They have them for all kinds of axles and are full 3/8s steel bent 8 different ways. They seem like they will be very hard to kill.

 

[hinrichs]

Those diff covers look great, still on my list of things to get.

 

[Grubbicon]

I took my knuckles to the people that usually do my powdercoating today because im lazy and Im going to let them sand blast them. I should be able to get them tomorrow or Wednesday. Since I have been slacking on working on the JK I decided to try and get back at it. I decided I was now going to move onto putting the front axle in so I went to put the truss on and then learned that more cast is going to have to go cut off before it will sit down all the way. I believe Im almost there, but a little more is going to have to go.


Since Im not using the coil buckets anymore Im either going to cut the driver side where it goes and weld the truss back up together so I have room on the axle tube for the ORI mounts. Im also considering using the flat plates for the coil buckets to weld those tabs too. I believe I like the other way idea better though.

Those diff covers look great, still on my list of things to get.

Thanks man. Personally I think these will take way more of a beating then the ARB covers I had before all though I didnt have a problem with those.

 

[Grubbicon]

Today I painted my diff covers. I ended up going with the matching red. I got a feeling its not gonna be all that strong and turn to shit fairly quick, but I guess Ill see.


While I was going back and forth with the paint I did more trimming of the cast trying to get this truss to sit all the way down. I finally got it so now only little bit more time cutting and grinding to make the back of it look cleaner. I then started to cut the end off the truss and move the outside in to make room for the shock tabs. Artec has it designed for the bottom of the coil bucket to go on top so the way it was I had no room for the tabs. I thought about welding the bottom of the coil bucket on and putting the tabs on it, but I think this way will end better in the end run.

 

[WJCO]

Sweet work. I just painted a cover for mine too. Still waiting on brown santa to bring my gears........

 

[Grubbicon]

Sweet work. I just painted a cover for mine too. Still waiting on brown santa to bring my gears........

Thanks man. I got my gears from Randy's Ring and Pinion and they were at my house within a few days. I couldn't believe it I figured it would take much longer then that.

 

[Grubbicon]

Today I cleaned up the axle and the truss so I could get started welding on the front. I also had to make clearance for the breather like I did on the rear. Im honestly surprised Artec does already make them so they dont get into the truss.


I then started to tacked the truss into place and then started to weld the tube side. I ended up finishing it so tomorrow I plan to do the rest of it as well as weld the top plate onto the sides. From one I have learned the front truss doesnt sit near as good as the rear did. Had some pretty big gaps I had to fill on one side of the tube.

 

[OscarMike2.0]

Looks good man.

 

[Grubbicon]

I finished up welding the truss all together today. I also welded the inside of the cast this time unlike the other.


I then started to lay the jig out on the passenger side tack the lca mount on as well as the trackbar mount. Also for anyone that may be trying to follow along down the road when you put the coil bucket down you cant get it out once the trackbar mount is tacked in. Thankfully I only had one tack on it so I could just pull it off.


I then moved on to tacking on the driver side. I could jig it on since i cut the truss, but with other things Ive seen I came to the conclusion to put it all the way over on the cast.


I then was going to put the uca mount on, but I was having problems getting the Johnny Joint together so I decided to just put it under the Jeep and see how the placement of the lca mounts were. Good thing I did this because everything is very off.


Since the driver side cant come in anymore Im basically screwed (I think). Basically since the RK arms are rubber bushings on the frame side I believe I have found my problem. Artec says the mounts will be shifted out a bit, but with the axle side being joints I never though about the bushings becoming a problem. So basically I have come up with 3 ways I can get around this problem and Id appreciate yalls feed back and see what yall think is best. Im also open to hearing different things. The first thing I came up with was cut the bushings off and weld johnny joints in. Second buy some kind of 4link kit (Id probably go to EVO if I went with a kit route). I could also try and build a triangulated 4link like I have been wanting to try and do. So basically I have no clue what I should do at this point and with it being this late I doubt Im thinking all that great.

 

[13_gecko_rubi]

Since the driver side cant come in anymore Im basically screwed (I think). Basically since the RK arms are rubber bushings on the frame side I believe I have found my problem. Artec says the mounts will be shifted out a bit, but with the axle side being joints I never though about the bushings becoming a problem. So basically I have come up with 3 ways I can get around this problem and Id appreciate yalls feed back and see what yall think is best. Im also open to hearing different things. The first thing I came up with was cut the bushings off and weld johnny joints in. Second buy some kind of 4link kit (Id probably go to EVO if I went with a kit route). I could also try and build a triangulated 4link like I have been wanting to try and do. So basically I have no clue what I should do at this point and with it being this late I doubt Im thinking all that great.

I would put some type of heim or jj on the frame side. That should do it.

 

[Grubbicon]

I would put some type of heim or jj on the frame side. That should do it.

As of right now I definitely think thats the best option. I think Im gonna think it over today and try to make a decision either later tonight or tomorrow.

 

[13_gecko_rubi]

If you want to test it before cutting your arms get the two joints. Use a piece of pvc and test one side

 

[Grubbicon]

If you want to test it before cutting your arms get the two joints. Use a piece of pvc and test one side

Thats a good point that never really crossed my mind. It sucks to change from the RK system and have to cut all that crap out the front.

 

[jkwebbie]

I would go with Johnny Joints on the frame end. Seems to be the easiest fix and cheapest

 

[Grubbicon]

I would go with Johnny Joints on the frame end. Seems to be the easiest fix and cheapest

I could be completely wrong thinking this but the RK arms are solid. So I wonder how much of a pain it is to put JJ in. I wonder if they are hollow on the end.

 

[jkwebbie]

I could be completely wrong thinking this but the RK arms are solid. So I wonder how much of a pain it is to put JJ in. I wonder if they are hollow on the end.

Yea I know they are solid steel, but idk. You could always email them and tell them your problem and see what they say?

 

[13_gecko_rubi]

I could be completely wrong thinking this but the RK arms are solid. So I wonder how much of a pain it is to put JJ in. I wonder if they are hollow on the end.

Just get this type jj. Will weld on to sold link just fine.

 

[Grubbicon]

Yea I know they are solid steel, but idk. You could always email them and tell them your problem and see what they say?

Ill probably do that hear in a bit just to see. I know a guy on IG I have been talking to doing the same swap is running Aluminum RK links with joints on either end in the front.

Just get this type jj. Will weld on to sold link just fine.

Looks like the same type of JJ I got through Artec for the UCA. Assuming they make multiple types. Never really looked into them.