The Slimer Build Thread

So do you guys think I can just pump grease through it till it squirts out and I'll be okay?

Also, what are your thoughts on the LCA flip I mentioned earlier?
 
Prime8 said:
And after opening the carrier, I saw this!!! Damn salt !!! Are these joints salvageable? They have only been on my rig for like 2-3 months!!!!View attachment 19993
View attachment 19994
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Holy smokes!!!!

I'm not sure what I'd do. "Thinking outloud" maybe hit them with a wire brush for now to clean up the rust, find some sort of coat to "seal" it. I know you are good with metals ;) what do you use in the industry?

Seeing this, for next winter I am going to find a way to coat mine. If nothing else I'll but the gallon tub of petroleum jelly and coat them up.

As for the other post...I'd flip it so the zerk fitting is up (thats how I did mine). They don't need greased that often. Pulling them out is easier than dealing with a broken zerk fitting. Or so I would think.
 
if you stood in the street and beat the asphalt with a sledgehammer, they would fine YOU!

but as a fix, i believe your joints can be rebuilt.

andrew -
 
Prime8 said:
.....Are these joints salvageable? They have only been on my rig for like 2-3 months!!!!
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Come on man! Those are Currie Johnny Joints, those things are going to need a little more abuse than that to call them toast :thumb: They are totally rebuildable, I would just use a light sandpaper or even a green-pad on the center hole and then learn to hose them with a good rust-inhibitor/lube spray.
 
GCM 2 said:
Come on man! Those are Currie Johnny Joints, those things are going to need a little more abuse than that to call them toast :thumb: They are totally rebuildable, I would just use a light sandpaper or even a green-pad on the center hole and then learn to hose them with a good rust-inhibitor/lube spray.
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^^^^^^^^ this ^^^^^^^^

andrew -
 
MTG said:
...I'd flip it so the zerk fitting is up (thats how I did mine). They don't need greased that often. Pulling them out is easier than dealing with a broken zerk fitting. Or so I would think.
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That's what I did too. :thumb:
 
Clean the currie joint up and then spay it with something called Fluid Film. Its great for keeping rust at bay. Should be able to find it at any auto part store.
 
MTG said:
I know you are good with metals ;) what do you use in the industry?
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Paint, a shit-ton of paint. When a tractor leaves Cat for the customer, even the tracks are coated in paint. I was thinking WD40, since my entire undercarriage is coated in that to prevent rust, but it can also act as a solvent and I was worried it might screw up the grease in the joints...?
 
Biggy, Dave, Andrew, Greg, and Mike.
Thanks for all of your input.
How do you disassemble the joints? Is a specialty tool required? If I sand it down, will there be play in the joint after that?

Also, what's the best grease to use in these joints?
 
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Not sure if it would work on those joints, but Eastwood.com makes a spray for wheels/polished metal that seals it up which may work.
 
Prime8 said:
Biggy, Dave, Andrew, Greg, and Mike.
Thanks for all of your input.
How do you disassemble the joints? Is a specialty tool required? If I sand it down, will there be play in the joint after that?

Also, what's the best grease to use in these joints?
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There are quite a few write-ups online on rebuilding a Johnny Joint, this one is pretty good.

http://www.jk-forum.com/jk-write-ups-39/johnny-joint-rebuild-175732/

I am partial to Royal Purple or Lucas grease, but probably any would work since its only the tire carrier and doesn't see the heat build up and repetition a control arm sees. As for the WD40 cutting/thinning grease, yes it could do it with heavy use or a soaking, try to use something heavier like a moly-film or a spray on lithium grease.
 
I just cleaned Greg's joints on his carrier with a brown scotchbrite pad, mounted on a die grinder, and painted them black, he could probably send you pics, if ya wanna see how it looks.

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
 
munstie said:
I just cleaned Greg's joints on his carrier with a brown scotchbrite pad, mounted on a die grinder, and painted them black, he could probably send you pics, if ya wanna see how it looks.

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
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So you painted the entire center section while removed from the casing?
 
I used a ball pin hammer and a 2lb sledge. Place the ball on the ball pin hammer where you want to bend it. Then smack the crap out of it with the 2 lb hammer. :)
 
Prime8 said:
So you painted the entire center section while removed from the casing?
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Didn't even have to take them out the brown pad is flexible enough to get down into the groove on the joint, then we coated the exposed part of the joint with corrosion x and painted the casing, the scotchbrite pad will take the zinc coating off so you pretty much have to paint them.

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
 
munstie said:
Didn't even have to take them out the brown pad is flexible enough to get down into the groove on the joint, then we coated the exposed part of the joint with corrosion x and painted the casing, the scotchbrite pad will take the zinc coating off so you pretty much have to paint them.

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
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Ok. The yellow zinc coated housing is fine, it's just the center socket of the joint that rusted. Currie makes these big beefy joints and then leaves exposed, unprotected iron like that? Seems really dumb...
 
Hey Greg and Eddie, how does your EVO DTD setup look now? EVO ain't got nothin on PW!!!
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1363546482.817986.jpg
Look at that articulation! Hahahaha
 
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