Scott's build of a 1981 CJ8 Scrambler

GraniteCrystal said:
There is a visual inspection as well. So I also failed on account of not having an air pump or catalytic converter. I was 90% sure I'd need those but wasn't sure and wanted to see what he'd fail me for. He didn't mention the EGR (or lack thereof) at all so not planning on adding that.


Just ordered an air pump from Pep Boys. Doesn't come with pulley though so I may have to source that from a junk yard. Or maybe there's a generic pulley I could buy? Pep Boys didn't show any options
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I'm just gonna warn you now that if you're wanting to restore the factory smog system and the miles and miles of vacuum lines that are needed to make it work, it ain't gonna happen. MOST of that stuff hasn't been made in decades and finding what you need from a junkyard is near impossible these days. Forget easier, in the end, I think you'll find that it's a LOT cheaper to go TBI. Trust me, I've been down this road before. In fact, part of why I live where I do is so that I no longer have to deal with that BS.
 
wayoflife said:
I'm just gonna warn you now that if you're wanting to restore the factory smog system and the miles and miles of vacuum lines that are needed to make it work, it ain't gonna happen. MOST of that stuff hasn't been made in decades and finding what you need from a junkyard is near impossible these days. Forget easier, in the end, I think you'll find that it's a LOT cheaper to go TBI. Trust me, I've been down this road before. In fact, part of why I live where I do is so that I no longer have to deal with that BS.
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I hear you Eddie. I'm hoping it's just a few things to get it over the hump.

The Plan:
1) order cat and have shop weld that on
2) order air pump (done) and belt, find pulley. Install all.
3) drive near emissions check station
4) adjust cat until it's running super lean
5) pull into emissions station, test, pass, drive off
6) adjust cat back to normal

Thoughts? I'd only be in it for maybe $300 at that point. If that's no good, then maybe I start looking at TBI.

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Are the smog pipes all still present to hook the pump up? Also, with the cat on there, you may not even need to adjust the carb too lean, hard to say.
 
GraniteCrystal said:
Yeah, that was including installation.

I know the fuel injection is nicer and more practical but part of me just wants to keep it closer to stock. Am I crazy?
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Keeping it closer to stock is an admirable goal. I tried using the old carter on my CJ, and after rebuilding one and getting a new one and could not get either to run right. Tuning any carb can be challenging for someone not used to it, and the carter is not the easiest carb to learn on.

I decided that EFI was a better use of my time and money, and because carbs are not as good when out wheeling.

The howell system has been around for 20+ years and I have seen their stuff on many Jeeps over the years, on both the 304 and the 258. The system works well.

Like I said above, I ended swapping over to the 4.0 stuff because it was factory (and cheaper at the time).
 
WJCO said:
Are the smog pipes all still present to hook the pump up? Also, with the cat on there, you may not even need to adjust the carb too lean, hard to say.
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Checking the plugs may reveal whether it is really running rich or not, with or without a cat.
 
GraniteCrystal said:
I hear you Eddie. I'm hoping it's just a few things to get it over the hump.

The Plan:
1) order cat and have shop weld that on
2) order air pump (done) and belt, find pulley. Install all.
3) drive near emissions check station
4) adjust cat until it's running super lean
5) pull into emissions station, test, pass, drive off
6) adjust cat back to normal

Thoughts? I'd only be in it for maybe $300 at that point. If that's no good, then maybe I start looking at TBI.
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Okay, didn't realize you didn't need to restore your emission system back to stock configuration like you would need to do in CA. If you can really just get by with a few basics, then it might be worth trying to do.

WJCO said:
Are the smog pipes all still present to hook the pump up? Also, with the cat on there, you may not even need to adjust the carb too lean, hard to say.
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I see air tubes in the pic posted but don't know how it was capped off. I've seen a lot of air tubs crushed and welded and if that's the case, restoring it so that you can hook a smog pump back to it might be an issue. Of course, the only thing a smog pump will do is add more O2 to the system but don't see how that would help anything without all the other components that you'd need to make the emissions system work right.
 
cashin said:
That air cleaner looks like the type that comes with Weber carbs.Weber carbs come jetted for altitudes to 4000 feet.Rejetting smaller will help.Just don't lean to much or you could burn a piston.They also need a lower fuel pressure than what the oem carb did.An adjustable regulater might help.

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The air cleaner also looks really dirty, which will contribute to the rich condition.
 
cashin said:
That air cleaner looks like the type that comes with Weber carbs.Weber carbs come jetted for altitudes to 4000 feet.Rejetting smaller will help.Just don't lean to much or you could burn a piston.They also need a lower fuel pressure than what the oem carb did.An adjustable regulater might help.

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Previous owner said he did that so I nice he lived in Utah.
fiend said:
The air cleaner also looks really dirty, which will contribute to the rich condition.
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Found a Weber carb rebuild kit on Quadratec for $23. Buying that. Rebuilding the carb has been on the list anyway.

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Just ordered Weber carb rebuild kit and radiator fan shroud from Quadratec. Hoping rebuilding the carb helps some with the issues I'm having with getting the right gas to air mixture.

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GraniteCrystal said:
Just ordered Weber carb rebuild kit and radiator fan shroud from Quadratec. Hoping rebuilding the carb helps some with the issues I'm having with getting the right gas to air mixture.

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Where is it having this issue, at an idle, on throttle or both?

It is nice that you can still pass visual inspection with aftermarket products.
 
wayoflife said:
Where is it having this issue, at an idle, on throttle or both?

It is nice that you can still pass visual inspection with aftermarket products.
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I'd say more so at throttle though this morning it had a weird rhythm feeling at idle. Also, it made a popping/clunking sound once when driving.
 
Running into some issues with the top.

1) Step 1 says to use 5/32" drill bit for #10 sheet metal screw. That's wrong. Should use 1/8". Now I need to go get bigger screws to fit that hole.

2) Measurement of 67-7/16" in step 3 is wrong. Put all the rail pieces together on each side and make sure they fit before drilling. They don't tell you to do this and that number is wrong so now I'll have 6 extra 3/8" holes in my Scrambler.

I called Bestop and made them aware of the issues.

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As my high school wood shop teacher used to say, measure twice, cut once. Applies to drilling too. [emoji6]
 
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