Rebuilt of a Billet Silver mall crawler
- Thread starter VeruGE*144
- Start date
VeruGE*144
Caught the Bug
Maybe a little bit of a pain in the butt since you can't get a torque wrench in there to torque the bolts back on to whatever 37ft/lbs or so. I just went as tight as I can with a box wrench. As far as jacking up the tcase/transmission its not a big deal at all.
A wrench with swivel head would help a lot on driver side , like so
But I was able to get it with just a straight ratcheting wrench, again just as tight as I can get it, since I don't think that I can apply too much torque with just a simple box wrench. I don't think there's enough leverage in a small wrench to over tighten.
Hey by the way, I looked at your profile and I don't see a build thread started by you. I would love to see some pictures of your Jeep man. If you do have build thread, I would like to follow it. Send me a link if you do.
Matt,
VeruGE*144
Caught the Bug
Yea me too, I was gonna do it today but I now I have a problem with my air blend door/actuator. I am dicking around with the whole morning.
JKbrick
Active Member
VeruGE*144
Caught the Bug
Since couple of day ago I've been having trouble with air blend door/actuator. I got in there and found out the my door is cracked on the actuator mechanism. Also I have clicking noise coming from the actuator.
I messed around with it for couple hours this morning with no luck. I can get to one of the actuator screws after removing the speaker housing, other one is impossible to reach.
Anyhow I had to drive down to the dealer to get new spark plugs I figured I can look at this also.
So actuator is $45, not bad
Looks like the door can't be replaced, I need to purchase the entire housing. And that is $664[emoji33].
I spoke with my service tech guy, he is very up front and honest of the whole warranty process. Now I did purchase the life time warranty and this is covered.
Any repair hat is over $1K must be submitted to Chrysler. They then can either say go ahead and do it or they will request pictures or send inspector. If they say ok it'll be $100, if they deny $1.5K. The entire dash has to come out to get to this part. It also is covered in mud [emoji854].....
The catch, I have aftermarket head unit, speakers and about a mile of wiring. I need to remove it all, just to bring it in, and then yet it's not even guaranteed that they will fix it under warranty.
For now I just zip tied the shit back together and it does work. Goes up no problem, once it closes all the way the actuator makes clicking noise. I need to figure out how in the fuck am a gonna get this done.
https://youtu.be/eYLFCHBVH-4
On the bright side, my steering box just showed up.
The box weighs 57lbs
Excited to open it [emoji16]
I messed around with it for couple hours this morning with no luck. I can get to one of the actuator screws after removing the speaker housing, other one is impossible to reach.
Anyhow I had to drive down to the dealer to get new spark plugs I figured I can look at this also.
So actuator is $45, not bad
Looks like the door can't be replaced, I need to purchase the entire housing. And that is $664[emoji33].
I spoke with my service tech guy, he is very up front and honest of the whole warranty process. Now I did purchase the life time warranty and this is covered.
Any repair hat is over $1K must be submitted to Chrysler. They then can either say go ahead and do it or they will request pictures or send inspector. If they say ok it'll be $100, if they deny $1.5K. The entire dash has to come out to get to this part. It also is covered in mud [emoji854].....
The catch, I have aftermarket head unit, speakers and about a mile of wiring. I need to remove it all, just to bring it in, and then yet it's not even guaranteed that they will fix it under warranty.
For now I just zip tied the shit back together and it does work. Goes up no problem, once it closes all the way the actuator makes clicking noise. I need to figure out how in the fuck am a gonna get this done.
https://youtu.be/eYLFCHBVH-4
On the bright side, my steering box just showed up.
The box weighs 57lbs
Excited to open it [emoji16]
VeruGE*144
Caught the Bug
No room for that, best tool for this would be a wrench like I posted above.
JKbrick
Active Member
Man that whole last post except the new steering box really sucks ass, sorry that thing broke Matt
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VeruGE*144
Caught the Bug
I am hoping they will cover that. It will still take quite a bit of time to get all my aftermarket stuff out and the reinstalled. It sucks, I'll just drag it out for as long as I can and learn to live with the annoying ticking sound lol.
Anyway. This steering box is massive. I would say it weight about 50lbs and the pitman arm another 7 lbs.
Andy5160
Hooked
Lol
I don't have build thread yet and yes it is time to start one.
Thanks for the skid install tips
VeruGE*144
Caught the Bug
Lol
I don't have build thread yet and yes it is time to start one.
Thanks for the skid install tips
I'll be waiting for a link to your build thread....
Jep - looks really massiv. But i like it. Do you need it for your tire size or do you just want this?
Lg
Ddays
Hooked
Lol
I don't have build thread yet and yes it is time to start one.
Thanks for the skid install tips
1800 posts and NO BUILD THREAD?!? What the Hell man? Lets get with the program Andy! :grayno:
Andy5160
Hooked
I am sorry that i am not sorry:yup::yup::yup::yup:
I don't feel i posted enough to start such important thread :cheesy::cheesy::cheesy:
VeruGE*144
Caught the Bug
I started my build thread with about 30-50 posts to my name. No excuses!!!!
VeruGE*144
Caught the Bug
Got some of the new bling installed today. I had to pick up a 2" socket to thread in the tie rod ends cartridges.
Got the oem drag link and tie rod out showing no mercy with a pickle fork and 2lb sledge.
Assembled the links
Difference in tie rod ends. OEM vs 2.5ton
It's a bitch to get to the nut at pitman arm. I had to pick up a set of few large metric wrenches for this. Just torqued it down to 78ft/lbs- ish [emoji108][emoji854]
Here's all assembled. I threw in a new steering stabilizer for extra bling.
I drove her around a little. I eagle
eyed the steering wheel dead on center and toe within 1/8".
Noticeably tighter steering while turning the steering wheel. Big improvement on road while going over bumps and imperfections/potholes. Am sure a new steering stabilizer helps but I think it's mostly stronger links.
Got the oem drag link and tie rod out showing no mercy with a pickle fork and 2lb sledge.
Assembled the links
Difference in tie rod ends. OEM vs 2.5ton
It's a bitch to get to the nut at pitman arm. I had to pick up a set of few large metric wrenches for this. Just torqued it down to 78ft/lbs- ish [emoji108][emoji854]
Here's all assembled. I threw in a new steering stabilizer for extra bling.
I drove her around a little. I eagle
eyed the steering wheel dead on center and toe within 1/8". Noticeably tighter steering while turning the steering wheel. Big improvement on road while going over bumps and imperfections/potholes. Am sure a new steering stabilizer helps but I think it's mostly stronger links.
JKbrick
Active Member
Dang that's nice, did you have to put a different taper in your knuckles?
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Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app