thardy
Banned
So I suggest checking sensors on the axle, but because I mentioned that someone else's idea of a kill switch for the system was stupid, I'm not helpful? Cool story!
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My Jeep is trying to kill me...
- Thread starter Necro
- Start date
So I suggest checking sensors on the axle, but because I mentioned that someone else's idea of a kill switch for the system was stupid, I'm not helpful? Cool story!
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Necro
New member
Out of Curiosity what shocks are you running? I was running Rancho 9000xl's and now I'm running bypass shocks, both tuned to give me a nice smooth ride. I'm wondering if the Currie progressive springs are too soft mixed with the soft valving of my shocks thus allowing to much body/chassis roll... it doesn't feel like it rolls more than it did when it was stock though, but it does feel like a much smoother ride... so maybe I just need to run my shocks as firm as I can tune them to and see if that gets rid of it...
Necro
New member
Dude, get some preparation-H already... you suggested checking for loose/pulled/stretched wires etc... I've already done that. You got all keyboard cowboy, Billy bad arse, holier than thou, etc, then got all butt hurt when I glossed over your reply... and now you're butt hurt again... How old are you 17? You can't act like a troll in one reply, then get all offended later on.
Here's a virtual beer: :beer:
I'm sorry I hurt your feelings, can we get past this like grown men?
JeepJeep75
New member
My money would be on a bad tone-ring sensor.... This may sound a bit odd, but try grabbing your front bumper and pull it side to side to get the jeep wiggling side to side and listen/feel for a clunking noise or feel. Give it a good shake. Maybe have a friend shake the crap out of it while you check around under it.
Frogmech
-
I think you should use your awesome necromancer magic to conjure up some spell to fix your problem.
If the spell of necromagical triple douchebagarry doesn't fix it, you can always get a slurry of unicorn semen mixed with fairy dust and sprinkle it over your jeep. That should do it.
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If the spell of necromagical triple douchebagarry doesn't fix it, you can always get a slurry of unicorn semen mixed with fairy dust and sprinkle it over your jeep. That should do it.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Necro
New member
I would, but I can see that all the Unicorn semen and fairy dust was used up on your Jeep. :cheesy:
thardy
Banned
Please explain to me how I was supposed to know you already checked what I suggested, as you did not respond to me? I'm not butt hurt at all dude. I don't let the internet affect me like you obviously do. You're the one that decided to not respond to logical post and got upset because we said the idea of a kill switch on the traction control system was stupid. I was not trolling you at all.
Fully understand that you're frustrated with the situation with your Jeep, I would be too. I actually gave a few suggestions to help, because I truly hope you get your situation resolved quickly. I still believe that your first step is to check the steering wheel with the procal to rule out the easy fix. I would then check your tone rings and any other sensors associated with the traction control, as mentioned. Also, I'd do everything I could to limit driving the vehicle. Good luck.
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Not much to add to your issue but I do have some comments / questions.
1. Why did you say that your going fast on the beach so not to get stuck and such? When I was stationed over there I drove 3 different 4wd out on OBX and never had an issue with getting stuck. Did it most of the time in 2wd, and when I did dig my rear axle down to the ground. Just popped it in 4Hi and crawled out.
2. If you have a manual Tranny why did you waste money on a pro cal? changing gears ratios and tire size doesn't really matter with a Manual.
1. Why did you say that your going fast on the beach so not to get stuck and such? When I was stationed over there I drove 3 different 4wd out on OBX and never had an issue with getting stuck. Did it most of the time in 2wd, and when I did dig my rear axle down to the ground. Just popped it in 4Hi and crawled out.
2. If you have a manual Tranny why did you waste money on a pro cal? changing gears ratios and tire size doesn't really matter with a Manual.
Necro
New member
I saw how you reacted to someone else's post, and I also noticed the tone of your own reply to me, so I chose to ignore you. I also ignored you because you bshed the idea of a kill switch as retarded. There are many other vehicles on the road today that don't have traction control, and while some of them do crash, not all of them do. Your idea of a kill switch being a bad idea is IMO the same as saying that buying an older model Jeep that doesn't have traction control is also and equally retarded. I don't find getting into a discussion about the values of having or not having an electronic leash on my ability to be able to drive my own vehicle safely, to be in the same context as solving my problem with the existing system.
I do realize that there are plenty of people that just want to clown around and poke others in the ribs online etc... I'm ok with that and I'll play along accordingly, but I'm much more likely to spare a reply when I'm home relaxing on my own PC as I am now, than I am when I'm sneaking a peak at the forum from a work computer as I was earlier...
Once again, my apologies.
Chris, aka Necro, aka :asshat:
Frogmech
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thardy
Banned
You missed the point about the kill switch. I really do not like electronic traction aids. I come from a background in race cars and we rarely ever ran power steering, so electronic aids definitely weren't there. My point is that a kill switch simply masks your issue. It doesn't solve it. That's where I was coming from.
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Necro
New member
1st question: In 2wd, the TC was going off so badly, that the only way I could even make forward progress was to downshift and power through the ABS trying to stop the spinning wheels. I prolly put 3 years of wear on my brake pads in the first mile of the beach. The issue was the exact same in 4 high as well. I'm sure when you were driving on the beach so easily you didn't have somebody else hitting the brakes the entire time you were driving.
2nd question: I actually ordered the ProCal module when 4wheelparts still had my Jeep held hostage. They wouldn't release it to me because of "Insurance" reasons and had it for over 2 weeks until they figured out they broke the clock spring and sent it to the dealership for repairs.
Question 2.5... there is a gigantic difference in performance when running 37x13.50 bias ply tires between the stock 4.11 gears, and the 5.38 gears I'm running now. And after reading your post again, I'm thinking you might mean it *the procal module* doesn't make a difference, not the gear ratio. But I own it already, so I did the programming.
NevadaZielmeister
Caught the Bug
No, it would appear we cannot. Death and Taxes is what my post was referring to. Since you are a good guy, please do not try this at home.
Or suicide to collect on a life insurance policy..
No, that might be a better idea since some of us (read ME) are worth WAY more dead than alive, but I want to hang around a little, little selfish old me I know.
Yeh, that was why I was joking when I recommend killing yourself to avoid taxes, it simply doesn't work.
I now return you to your normally scheduled arguments...err I mean thread. Something about quality work and 4WP, or something along those lines. :crazyeyes:
Necro
New member
Do me a favor, and please leave me out of your sexual fantasies when you edit my quotes. K thanks bye... :thankyou:
Necro
New member
I agree that a kill switch doesn't solve the reason my Jeep goes bonkers in a corner, however it would solve the problem I have with my Jeeps handling. Similar to how the dual steering stabilizer doesn't fix blown out track bar bushings, but if it gets rid of DW then it gets rid of the immediate problem. I would actually prefer my Jeeps traction control to work correctly and as intended by the factory, but right now it's a very unwanted nuisance.
Necro
New member
I read your Jeep build list on the bottom of your post, I see you're also on 37's, hydro assist, with bypass shocks. I didn't see anywhere that you're running an unlimited so I'm going to assume 2 door. So a similar build to mine except you're on EVO lift instead of Currie, and Long arms instead of short. Did you ever run on 37's with short arms? Have you had issues with the traction control system besides the keeping the steering wheel centered issue?
jeeeep
Hooked
took me about 10 tries doing the steering wheel dance before it took hold - Tip, turn your wheel all the way to one direction and count the number of turns it takes to get to the other full lock direction. Then turn 1/2 that amount to get the "center" starting point.
1. Verify that the automatic transmission selector is in the “Park” position, and that a manual transmission is in neutral gear.
2. Shift the transfer case into the 4H range position and ensure parking brake is firmly set.
3. Turn the steering wheel until it is centered and the wheels are pointed straight ahead.
4. Turn ignition on (and optionally start engine to make turning the wheel easier – will work with or without engine running) and wait approximately five (5) seconds for the system bulb check to complete.
5. Turn the steering wheel one-half turn to the right (clockwise).
6. Press and hold the “ESP OFF” button for 7 seconds exactly then release and wait for chime.
7. Turn the steering wheel back to centre, then continue turning the steering wheel one-half turn to the left (counter clockwise).
8. Press and hold the “ESP OFF” button for 7 seconds exactly, release and wait for chime.
9. Turn the steering wheel back to centre.
10. Press and hold the “ESP OFF” button for 7 seconds, release and wait for chime.
11. Cycle the ignition switch to the “OFF” position.
I should add, this does not turn it off completely, it makes it less sensitive to the larger tires. I can still feel it kick in when absolutely needed.
1. Verify that the automatic transmission selector is in the “Park” position, and that a manual transmission is in neutral gear.
2. Shift the transfer case into the 4H range position and ensure parking brake is firmly set.
3. Turn the steering wheel until it is centered and the wheels are pointed straight ahead.
4. Turn ignition on (and optionally start engine to make turning the wheel easier – will work with or without engine running) and wait approximately five (5) seconds for the system bulb check to complete.
5. Turn the steering wheel one-half turn to the right (clockwise).
6. Press and hold the “ESP OFF” button for 7 seconds exactly then release and wait for chime.
7. Turn the steering wheel back to centre, then continue turning the steering wheel one-half turn to the left (counter clockwise).
8. Press and hold the “ESP OFF” button for 7 seconds exactly, release and wait for chime.
9. Turn the steering wheel back to centre.
10. Press and hold the “ESP OFF” button for 7 seconds, release and wait for chime.
11. Cycle the ignition switch to the “OFF” position.
I should add, this does not turn it off completely, it makes it less sensitive to the larger tires. I can still feel it kick in when absolutely needed.
Last edited:
NevadaZielmeister
Caught the Bug
Actually, it is a 4 door.
I never ran anything other than stock until I dropped it off at Off Road Evolution, who did a whole bunch of work below the waterline. I never had any issues with the traction control. I did have to recenter the steering wheel after some hard wheeling but that was pretty simple. I did not use the ProCal to do this since I could figure it out pretty easy on my own.
I hope you get your issues fixed but my money is also on something that 4Wheel Parts did to screw things up somehow. I just do not see how the components you have installed would lead to the issues that you are having. The holding your Jeep hostage is what alarms me. Almost like they didn't know what to do and had to wait until the lead technician got back from vacation.
Good luck!!
Reply to 1: fair enough, I guess that could really suck.
2: dam that sucks they had it hostage, I would have been pissed about that.
2.5: sorry I meant that changing the gears with the pro cal doesn't matter. Changing the info in the computer is to change your shift points with the auto.
One thing I don't know if it has been said or not. I had a wheel speed sensor go back a few months back, it would do the same break stuff. Have you looked into the wheel speed sensor being bad or more than one of them?
Also, I'm running 35x12.50 with 3.73 gears so I know the pain I have a Sport so don't really want to regear. Maybe one day I can get either some Rubi take offs or new axles all together.
swampdog
New member
Why did you have to re-center your steering wheel after wheeling? I would assume that you hit your tie rod, which threw your toe-in off a bit and you compensated by adjusting the draglink. This could lead to some tire wear issues over time if you didn't reset the toe-in prior to adjusting drag link.