Jdofmemi and the yet unnamed Jeep rebuild

Ddays said:
My one & only complaint about my cage is this ^^

What a pain in the dick to get wiring inside now. And taking that side bar out is a bigger pain in the dick. I've got a set of rock lights I need to hook
up and I'm trying to figure out the easiest place now to pit the switch & wiring....
Click to expand...
jdofmemi said:
Hmmm, I wonder where I got the idea?

That is a trial fit, and I'm going to add one or two switches to fill it in.

One will be my big brother delete switch, and I'm not sure on the other one. Maybe a switch for an Evo no limits for the sway bar. More $$ though. It never ends.

I wasn't ready yet to cut the factory switch module, so I just took it out. With a cage, that's easier said than done.
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Yeah on my buddy's jeep who you meet Jerry with the Poison Spyder cage, that side panel made it a bitch to get that stock switch out.

I used a fiberglass wall fishing pole to pull the wires through the firewall and up the left hand side of next to the speaker to bring all the wire to that area.

I am debating on doing the no limits air as well but the manual works perfect.

Sent from my SM-G986U using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Does anyone have some advice on where to tap the two signal lines for the ARB harness?

I need the accessory power, and the dash lights. The wires currently are hanging down the left side of the dash near the speaker. I guess I can go anywhere, but figured someone has an easy answer.
 
Accessory power I ran to cigarette lighter +. I did need to add about a foot of wire.

Dimmer I tapped into a wire behind the gauge cluster orange with grey strip.

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For the third fucking time, as my draft disappeared twice😖

I'm still stuck on the dimmer wire. Without pulling my cage, I can't figure out how to get behind the cluster to find the wire Mericamade suggested. At least not without taking a chance on breaking something.

Does anyone have an alternative wire to tap for the dimmer?

Otherwise, progress is slow and steady.
I cut in the traction control deleteswitch, and found the perfect switch logo for it.

After struggling to find good affordable wire to run power to the back for the ARB compressor, I came across a set of 4ga jumper cables. Other than being a little bit unwieldy, they will work fine, and we're cheap.

It's getting crowded, with the power for the compressor, power for the fridge, control wires for the compressor and lockers, and the air line for the front lockers.
 

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I dunno Jerry. Doesn’t look like your rig is gonna be ready to roll for tomorrow’s night run. [emoji19]


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Jerrry I had to pull the entire dash off and then the 4 bolts to pull the cluster off but I believe that same wire runs into the heater controls. You'll just have to run an extension wire all the way over there.

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Well, I got all the electrical part done and working properly.

Also cleaned and re installed the interior, except the seats, but they are ready to go.

I forgot what color the inside was, what with wheeling so much in dust, rain, and mud with it opened up. It's getting a fresh start again.

The only problem now is the locker solenoids won't seal off. Electronically they work, the plunger moves as it should, but I think the seals have dried up or something. Still no lockers, but the air system works and seals up when I take the solenoids out and put plugs in.

Still a lot to do, but I'm close to a trail ride to test it out.

I'm thinking I may pull the solenoids off of my Avalanche, but I'm not sure they will deal up either after how long it has sat.
 

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jdofmemi said:
Well, I got all the electrical part done and working properly.

Also cleaned and re installed the interior, except the seats, but they are ready to go.

I forgot what color the inside was, what with wheeling so much in dust, rain, and mud with it opened up. It's getting a fresh start again.

The only problem now is the locker solenoids won't seal off. Electronically they work, the plunger moves as it should, but I think the seals have dried up or something. Still no lockers, but the air system works and seals up when I take the solenoids out and put plugs in.

Still a lot to do, but I'm close to a trail ride to test it out.

I'm thinking I may pull the solenoids off of my Avalanche, but I'm not sure they will deal up either after how long it has sat.
Click to expand...

That’s really odd. Those are the brand new solenoids that came with the new axles. The ones that came with the your set are still in my Jeep. Call ARB, they can probably help.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
wjtstudios said:
That’s really odd. Those are the brand new solenoids that came with the new axles. The ones that came with the your set are still in my Jeep. Call ARB, they can probably help.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
Click to expand...

That's what I figured, no need to change out what was already there and working fine.

These are a little different than the older ones, as they have two ports to the tank. I'm not sure what the point of that is, unless it's for stacking them online, without using a manifold.

You can hear and feel them function when power is applied, they just don't seal.

I took one of the ones off of my Avalanche last night, but it won't cycle. I guess it's been sitting too long.
 
Jerry would you be so kind to post a link to the camera mirror you showed me? I looked on Amazon but there was so many different ones and I really like the one you have.

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By mixing and matching my ARB solenoids, I have two that work as they should.

I think the new blocks are somehow drilled wrong, or cracked through between the ports.

I used the old style blocks off of my Avalanche, installed in about 2005, with the magnetic switch and plunger from the new ones. Both default to sealed, and pressure up where they should when the switch is activated.

I'm just short one 6mm push lock fitting of having it completely working.

I will try a hose shop tomorrow, maybe get lucky.
 

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I could only hook up the rear locker for now, but it works perfectly and with no leaks.
I left the compressor on for over half an hour, and it never cycled back on, so I was happy with that.

My other fitting should be here today or tomorrow, so I should have both ends working by the weekend.

I went out to a nearby ditch and flexed to check clearance. It looks like I only need about 1-1/2" of bumpstop in the rear. I'm glad I didn't bolt in the old 3".
 

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