Jabberjaw

Sharkey said:
Honestly, itā€™s a tight fit. I wouldnā€™t want to run it for prolonged periods without popping the top on the ammo box. With the top popped though, it should have plenty of airflow. Canā€™t be any worse than the ones Iā€™ve seen mounted in the old rear tub cubby pre-floor subwoofer.
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Yeah true. But Iā€™ve never seen anyone actually use one mounted there before.
 
Been too hot/smokey and Iā€™ve been too busy. Took the morning off to get the ARB Twin mounted and finish the modified harness.
2BAD3E41-1DB5-4FCB-B741-7CB020598F45.jpegEED6B6F0-00EC-4FE8-91F9-51944A3D1918.jpeg057B8D26-E191-4F3E-B95B-3A46FD6B79D5.jpeg
(Sorry about the pics, apparently I was using Bruteā€™s phone).

All that is left is to route my harness up to the battery and connect the leads. At least for now, Iā€™m going to use the OEM Aux 4 to power the ARB switch in the back. That way someone walking by canā€™t turn on the ARB just for the hell of it. But, I can still set the unit to work without the ignition on when I want to (at camp or on a trail run).
 
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Sharkey said:
Been too hot/smokey and Iā€™ve been too busy. Took the morning off to get the ARB Twin mounted and finish the modified harness.
View attachment 365333View attachment 365334View attachment 365335
(Sorry about the pics, apparently I was using Bruteā€™s phone).

All that is left is to route my harness up to the battery and connect the leads. At least for now, Iā€™m going to use the OEM Aux 4 to power the ARB switch in the back. That way someone walking by can turn on the ARB just for the hell of it. But, I can still set the unit to work with the ignition on when I want to (at camp or on a trail run).
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Nice job my friend! (y)
 
Sharkey said:
Thanks! The crappy thing is I canā€™t completely finish. My 0.5m ARB stainless braided line still hasnā€™t shipped. I may see if I can source something similar through a local mom and pop that makes limes.
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I use a hydraulic shop on 50 in Carson City to make my lines. They'll make it for whatever length you need and while you wait. Of course, I'm sure there are shops in Reno as well that you can use.
 
wayoflife said:
I use a hydraulic shop on 50 in Carson City to make my lines. They'll make it for whatever length you need and while you wait. Of course, I'm sure there are shops in Reno as well that you can use.
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Good to know. Iā€™ll shoot you a text to get the name and probably pay them a visit sooner rather than later.
 
Sharkey said:
Good to know. Iā€™ll shoot you a text to get the name and probably pay them a visit sooner rather than later.
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Hydraulic Industrial Services. They're on 5248 US-50 in Carson City. Price should be no more than what you'd pay to get it from ARB.
 
Well. Hooked up the wiring today. What a shitshow. Only one of the compressors is working. That at least tells me the ground is fine. Now I have to chase down what is going on with the other tank which is going to be a bitch. I spent a lot of time running the wiring through the frame and pulling the actual compressor out is a PITA!

On top of that, Iā€™m getting a check engine light now. All I can think of is that the spot I used for a ground next to the battery was a ā€œno-noā€ for some reason. Is there any different between the three found posts closest to the windshield and the single one more forward that is close to the air intake (thatā€™s the one I used).

Is there a way to check codes on these without a scanner (like the old key dance on JKā€™s)?
 
Sharkey said:
Well. Hooked up the wiring today. What a shitshow. Only one of the compressors is working. That at least tells me the ground is fine. Now I have to chase down what is going on with the other tank which is going to be a bitch. I spent a lot of time running the wiring through the frame and pulling the actual compressor out is a PITA!

On top of that, Iā€™m getting a check engine light now. All I can think of is that the spot I used for a ground next to the battery was a ā€œno-noā€ for some reason. Is there any different between the three found posts closest to the windshield and the single one more forward that is close to the air intake (thatā€™s the one I used).

Is there a way to check codes on these without a scanner (like the old key dance on JKā€™s)?
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I wonder if you have a blown relay for some reason. I was fighting that on the silver Jeep. It kept blowing relays and there was absolutely nothing that would cause that wiring wise. Itā€™s a pain in the ass to check though since you have to disassemble the whole thing.
 
OverlanderJK said:
I wonder if you have a blown relay for some reason. I was fighting that on the silver Jeep. It kept blowing relays and there was absolutely nothing that would cause that wiring wise. Itā€™s a pain in the ass to check though since you have to disassemble the whole thing.
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Fuck I hope not. Literally would have to uninstall the entire thing. Iā€™m hoping that one of my connections to lengthen the harness wasnā€™t great. I think I might be able to at least get to those to check.
 
I seriously thought about hooking it up before I installed to make sure it worked, but figured itā€™s brand new so should be fine. šŸ˜œ
 
Sharkey said:
I seriously thought about hooking it up before I installed to make sure it worked, but figured itā€™s brand new so should be fine. šŸ˜œ
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Lol thatā€™s my life. I would guess itā€™s a bad connection. Hopefully that didnā€™t blow a relay though. The relays are hard to find in stores too. Itā€™s something I would buy a couple extras to have on hand just in case. I couldnā€™t find them in store.
 
Sharkey said:
Well. Hooked up the wiring today. What a shitshow. Only one of the compressors is working. That at least tells me the ground is fine. Now I have to chase down what is going on with the other tank which is going to be a bitch. I spent a lot of time running the wiring through the frame and pulling the actual compressor out is a PITA!

On top of that, Iā€™m getting a check engine light now. All I can think of is that the spot I used for a ground next to the battery was a ā€œno-noā€ for some reason. Is there any different between the three found posts closest to the windshield and the single one more forward that is close to the air intake (thatā€™s the one I used).

Is there a way to check codes on these without a scanner (like the old key dance on JKā€™s)?
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What do you mean that only one of the compressors is working? How can you tell? As far as the ground, no ground should cause an engine light.
 
WJCO said:
What do you mean that only one of the compressors is working? How can you tell? As far as the ground, no ground should cause an engine light.
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You can hear the twin when only one is working and you can also feel it in the intake for the compressor. Itā€™s noticeable when one is not working.
 
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