OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
Who did the work?
What was done to your rig this week?
- Thread starter 10frank9
- Start date
wjtstudios
Hooked
Yeah, that’s all no good. Was there any drive line vibrations when you brought it gone?
Bierpower
Hooked
This looks like your 2-3 degrees but on the wrong side of zero. The way this looks your pinion is actually pointed down 2-3 degrees rather than up at the transfer case.
Seahawkfan
Hooked
Actually it's smooth as silk.
J&k_Overland
Active Member
Got Bertha picked up from the shop today. Now has a 231 transfer case which hopefully is stronger and works better than that 242
Ahre
New member
I keep my rifle racked up close to the ceiling above the cargo area on a couple brackets mounted to my Hi-Lift Standard Bar with wing nuts and carriage bolts. The rubber clamps for holding the rifle are bolted to the two Brackets. The rifle is virtually impossible to see from outside the Jeep, even with the tail gate wide open. The last picture is standing behind the Jeep at eye level... Take care DonJohn, -Paul
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J&k_Overland
Active Member
put new plugs in the YJ and wires. Helped but still not right. Plugs look lean may need a fuel pump. Feels like it’s cutting out under a load.
Seahawkfan
Hooked
Ran across my digital torpedo today so I thought I would ask again. And ask some of you smart guys how do I read this. First picture is .06 is garage floor. Second is 86.6 hanging vertical on the round flat spot on the axle. Third picture 7.1 is on top of bump extension on the spring perch. (not sure if good location)
Seahawkfan
Hooked
Installed the Air Up/Down system the other day and finally got around to testing it out today.
First had to repair the passenger side section of line that got into the exhaust manifold. I got lazy on install and didn't double check it.
Pretty simple install. All pre-cut lines just figure out which go where. I laid it in the driveway and loosely put it together, then pulled it under the Jeep.
Route it and secure it all. Then find a safe and easy to get to location for the shrader valves, Drill four 5/16 holes.
Then tested.
Hook your whips to each tire. Had a little trouble getting the quick connect fittings to seal up on both the shraders and the valve stems. Can't just spin the end of the fitting you have to spin the the hose with it. I think I'm still a little concerned about being able to hear if they are not on properly while on the side of the highway or trail head.
Being that all the air is being released through the valve stems with valves still in airing down from 28psi to 12 psi still took about 10 minutes.
I forgot to time it.
Air up from 12 psi to 28 psi took 10 minutes. One plus was the extra valve stem on the Machetes gave me a place to check them as they were filling. They pretty much filled equally. Maybe 1/2 psi difference while checking.
First had to repair the passenger side section of line that got into the exhaust manifold. I got lazy on install and didn't double check it.
Pretty simple install. All pre-cut lines just figure out which go where. I laid it in the driveway and loosely put it together, then pulled it under the Jeep.
Route it and secure it all. Then find a safe and easy to get to location for the shrader valves, Drill four 5/16 holes.
Then tested.
Hook your whips to each tire. Had a little trouble getting the quick connect fittings to seal up on both the shraders and the valve stems. Can't just spin the end of the fitting you have to spin the the hose with it. I think I'm still a little concerned about being able to hear if they are not on properly while on the side of the highway or trail head.
Being that all the air is being released through the valve stems with valves still in airing down from 28psi to 12 psi still took about 10 minutes.
I forgot to time it.
Air up from 12 psi to 28 psi took 10 minutes. One plus was the extra valve stem on the Machetes gave me a place to check them as they were filling. They pretty much filled equally. Maybe 1/2 psi difference while checking.
Jsouder53
Hooked
nice upgrade! I bet that’s convenient!
Seahawkfan
Hooked
Crouching down is for the young..
I like the whole idea, But we'll find out down the road how these little whips connect.
USMMA11NC
Caught the Bug
So assuming the slope of the garage floor (0.6) is in the same direction fore/aft on your axle then the reading off your bump stop shows that you’re sitting at roughly 6.5deg castor which yields a -0.5deg pinion angle (Assuming x axis is 0).
IIRC the recommended castor angle should be approx 4.5-5 deg castor (your indicator should read between 5.1-5.7deg).
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WJCO
Meme King
I don't think the bump stop pad sits at the same angle as the imaginary ball joint line. The ball joint line is where the caster angle is.
USMMA11NC
Caught the Bug
Good catch. You’re right, the measurement needs to be running fore-aft on the ball joints.
Seahawkfan
Hooked
Would I be correct in saying 90-86.6 = 3.4 caster? If so how I would figure in the .06 garage floor?
WJCO
Meme King
If you can get the angle finder on your upper Ball joint, get a reading there, and then that number minus your floor angle is your caster. Is your axle OEM or is it a prorock?
Seahawkfan
Hooked
OEM
Seahawkfan
Hooked
Finally installed my LUX lights. I think a little fine tuning might be needed. This is 8 lights 2 in front and behind each axle.
Seahawkfan
Hooked
I think I would have to take a tire off to get a better look. But check this out, This looking down from top center of tire. I was able to hold that torpedo level on top of the ball but it didn't seem all that accurate being it angles side to side and front to back. But it was reading 10.9 ish
MericaMade
Active Member
There is app called Clinometer you can get for your phone. Set in on the garage floor near tire or under ball joint and zero it out, then set it on the ball joint to give you the proper number. I have found that if you don’t measure parallel with the frame and point the angle finder outside the line of the frame you get a false reading.