VIDEO : HOW TO Replace the Main & Auxiliary Battery on a JL Wrangler / JT Gladiator

Go easy on the plastic pieces, they will be brittle. Careful with the big electrical connectors under the fuse/relay tray.
Thanks for the advice! I don’t think I want to do the auxiliary battery delete that everyone talks about online. But I’m wondering if a battery management system, similar to RedArc, might get the crank and aux out of parallel, and isolated from each other. I’m only thinking about it because I want to do a battery for fridges, which of course would be totally separate from the two OEM batteries. The hostility from people for saying you don’t want to do an aux delete is something else!🤪
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Definitely go easy on the plastic!
Thanks!
 
Thanks for the advice! I don’t think I want to do the auxiliary battery delete that everyone talks about online. But I’m wondering if a battery management system, similar to RedArc, might get the crank and aux out of parallel, and isolated from each other. I’m only thinking about it because I want to do a battery for fridges, which of course would be totally separate from the two OEM batteries. The hostility from people for saying you don’t want to do an aux delete is something else!🤪

Thanks!
The redarc kit is nice. I also recently installed the genesis dual battery kit in a customers JLUR and it is a nice set up. Has extra posts in it for accessories to be wired to the battery
IMG_0235.jpeg
 
The redarc kit is nice. I also recently installed the genesis dual battery kit in a customers JLUR and it is a nice set up. Has extra posts in it for accessories to be wired to the battery
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I need to pick your brain on this. Because the complaint is that the crank and aux are in parallel, but when I was thinking of trying to isolate them, and maybe use a different type of battery for one or the other, I was told it wouldn’t work, but not a real explanation why, except that both batteries have to be the same type (they can’t be paired differently, like AGM vs lithium-ion, or AGM vs LiFePo).


Also, I put a charge on the battery this morning, and even letting it sit for about five hours, it’s cranking. I didn’t swap out batteries, because I’m hoping to nurse this out to a warm day, or buy a new house with a barn large enough to get a lift! I’m done laying in the street to work on my stuff. 😜
 
I need to pick your brain on this. Because the complaint is that the crank and aux are in parallel, but when I was thinking of trying to isolate them, and maybe use a different type of battery for one or the other, I was told it wouldn’t work, but not a real explanation why, except that both batteries have to be the same type (they can’t be paired differently, like AGM vs lithium-ion, or AGM vs LiFePo).


Also, I put a charge on the battery this morning, and even letting it sit for about five hours, it’s cranking. I didn’t swap out batteries, because I’m hoping to nurse this out to a warm day, or buy a new house with a barn large enough to get a lift! I’m done laying in the street to work on my stuff. 😜
So the genesis kit “deletes” the aux battery but it gets replaced with the now bigger battery. The genesis power bank keeps the battery’s in parallel but it will isolate the battery’s as well. When voltage gets to low it isolates the main battery from the auxiliary battery so that you can still start your vehicle. It also allows you to pair them together to jump start your vehicle if needed.
 
So the genesis kit “deletes” the aux battery but it gets replaced with the now bigger battery. The genesis power bank keeps the battery’s in parallel but it will isolate the battery’s as well. When voltage gets to low it isolates the main battery from the auxiliary battery so that you can still start your vehicle. It also allows you to pair them together to jump start your vehicle if needed.
I just read this basic concept on the Genesis website. I’m sold on it. Thanks, C!
 
So, I jumpstarted the battery and let it run for about a half hour yesterday, and the Bankster the Rubi sat all last night in just about freezing temps, and mid 30s throughout the day. I just went out and it fired right up. So, I drive my grandson into school tomorrow and decide if I run it until I have a problem, or go down to where cozdude works and order the Genesis. I have the money to be able to buy Genesis. But I’m always worried about plunking money down until I actually do it.
 
Did anyone lose the cameras after the battery swap? I don’t know if it’s the taser having issues or the factory software. It has a code for lost communication that comes on and turns off the traction control. 🙃.

I’m going to troubleshoot after work, but it did turn off the other lights that were on.
 
Did anyone lose the cameras after the battery swap? I don’t know if it’s the taser having issues or the factory software. It has a code for lost communication that comes on and turns off the traction control. 🙃.

I’m going to troubleshoot after work, but it did turn off the other lights that were on.
I did not but it can some times take a bit for UConnect to restore information in the compute after a full 12V battery kill. As in, being completely disconnected from the battery. It can sometimes take up to 24 hours and you need to have your Jeep outside to get the signal. During that time, you may experience some weird electrical shit going on. All this is totally normal.
 
Thanks, I’ll leave it be for a bit. I always worry when messing with the fuse box. Whoever decided to put the auxiliary battery there needs kicked in the dick.
I was too nervous to F with the fuse box. I used Eddie’s write up for 95% but I went through the wheel well/fender removal to access the aux battery. Cost me a bag of fender clips, but was pretty easy.
 
hi guys, I juste replaced the two batteries following Eddy tutorials! Thanks for that it was a straight forward job!

Now I’m confused by the dashboard battery display…the first day the battery voltage was in between from 13v up 14.5 (14.5 just when braking). After few days, the voltage start to be always about 14.5V( even during an highway travel). Is that normal?
 
hi guys, I juste replaced the two batteries following Eddy tutorials! Thanks for that it was a straight forward job!

Now I’m confused by the dashboard battery display…the first day the battery voltage was in between from 13v up 14.5 (14.5 just when braking). After few days, the voltage start to be always about 14.5V( even during an highway travel). Is that normal?
Mine did the same thing, the outside temp was showing way high as well. My camera worked for one reverse motion and hasn’t come back yet.
 
Mine did the same thing, the outside temp was showing way high as well. My camera worked for one reverse motion and hasn’t come back yet.
That's weird. Mine was out for like a day and I was seeing other things too but then after driving for about an hour or two, everything started to be okay again.
 
It can take up to 72 hours for everything to return to normal. No one knows why such a huge difference.

Your voltage showing high means the batteries are charging, most batteries do not come with a full charge when new. No matter what some believe.

If you have a smart charger, put it on each new battery individually before installing, you'll see they lack a full charge.

Make sure the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor/System) is disconnected from everything for at least 10 minutes, so it will relearn with the new batteries.
 
Make sure the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor/System) is disconnected from everything for at least 10 minutes, so it will relearn with the new batteries.
The battery has been disconnected the time for doing the job…I think at least 15/20 minutes…is there another procedure?
After that I connected the main battery to the battery charger all the night…have I done something wrong?
 
The battery has been disconnected the time for doing the job…I think at least 15/20 minutes…is there another procedure?
After that I connected the main battery to the battery charger all the night…have I done something wrong?
The IBS is the little black box on one of your negative leads at the battery. All negative leads should be separated from the lead with the black box for at least 10 minutes.

If you're charging with all leads connected to both batteries, you're charging both batteries at same time and any reading you're getting is an average of the 2 batteries.
 
The IBS is the little black box on one of your negative leads at the battery. All negative leads should be separated from the lead with the black box for at least 10 minutes.

If you're charging with all leads connected to both batteries, you're charging both batteries at same time and any reading you're getting is an average of the 2 batteries.
I didn’t counted the time for getting the job completed but I’m pretty sure that it was more then 10 minutes. After that I charged the battery installed on the jeep…the strage thing is that at the begin the dashboard was showing a fully charged value, after a couple of days it start to charge the batteries as they were having a low voltage
 
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I didn’t counted the time for getting the job completed but I’m pretty sure that it was more then 10 minutes. After that I charged the battery installed on the jeep…the strage thing is that at the begin the dashboard was showing a fully charged value, after a couple of days it start to charge the batteries as they were having a low voltage
If you don't drive your JT every day, for several miles, then your batteries are always going to need a charge.

There are constantly things being checked by the computer modules, whether running or not. So there is a constant drain on your batteries.
 
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