The Butters JK Build

Clutch said:
Fuck yea!
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:yup: 315/75R16 (measures about 34" from the ground) ...and I think you were right. Don't get me wrong the gears are awful and I'll never use 6th gear (not even 5th if it's windy or uphill), but I think I can manage for a couple months. I just get impatient :crazyeyes::blush:
 
WJCO said:
Nice Coopers. About time you joined the cool kids club, lol. I can't find can single thing negative about them.
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Ha! Thanks, I did take my sweet time.

Clutch said:
Moab? When?


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May 20-24

nbunga said:
Damn what a difference!
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TrainWreck618 said:
Lookin good[emoji106]


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Bear_JKU said:
Those STT Pros look good on there!


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Choobys said:
My dogs name is Butters[emoji3]. Great name!


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Thanks!
 
Put in a new custom 1310 driveshaft from a local place:
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Waiting on some LCAs to adjust my caster angle.
 
Alright, I think I need some input here... The new control arms are in. I'm having trouble eliminating drive line vibrations though. I thought this new double cardan drive shaft would be able to handle the angles better than it is.
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First I tried adjusting the LCAs longer, but that gave the drive shaft a bad vibration. I shortened then little by little until they were a little SHORTER than stock. The rear axle now seems to have negative caster just to alleviate the pinion angle. It hasn't eliminated the vibrations just tamed them down to only a minor vibration between 30-35mph. Should I shorten them further?? I feel like I'm doing something wrong...
 
Your rear pinion should point right at your driveshaft. They should be inline with one another. You don't need to worry about anything else. If it is still vibrating then, then you may have an out of balance shaft or a yoke that has excessive runout.
 
WJCO said:
Your rear pinion should point right at your driveshaft. They should be inline with one another. You don't need to worry about anything else. If it is still vibrating then, then you may have an out of balance shaft or a yoke that has excessive runout.
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OK, that makes it simple. I thought the rear pinion angle was supposed to be equal to the angle on the transfer case yoke. So it won't matter that the spring perches are sloping backward quite a bit?
 
Stotch said:
OK, that makes it simple. I thought the rear pinion angle was supposed to be equal to the angle on the transfer case yoke. So it won't matter that the spring perches are sloping backward quite a bit?
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The pinion and tcase angle have to be the same if you have a single ujoint at each end. With a double-cardin joint at the tcase, the pinion angle and driveshaft need to line up. As far as the perches, I don't think they'll be that far back, but take a picture when you're done.
 
Ok, I adjusted the lowers almost as short as they'll go. My stock control arms were 19 11/16, these are now 19 1/8. The pinion certainly looks straightened, but the angle is pretty severe on the negative caster... Haven't driven it yet.
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Stotch said:
Ok, I adjusted the lowers almost as short as they'll go. My stock control arms were 19 11/16, these are now 19 1/8. The pinion certainly looks straightened, but the angle is pretty severe on the negative caster... Haven't driven it yet.
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I don’t think there is caster in the back. Don’t need the angle finder on the axle. I ended up doing upper and lower arms in the rear to tilt the pinion and not have the tires being torn up on the pinch seam. Seems like the lowers are about stock length and I lengthened the uppers


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Stotch said:
Ok, I adjusted the lowers almost as short as they'll go. My stock control arms were 19 11/16, these are now 19 1/8. The pinion certainly looks straightened, but the angle is pretty severe on the negative caster... Haven't driven it yet.
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Looks a lot better. All your looking for is your pinion to be pointing at the transfer case. If your having vibrations you can adjust from there.


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