Elroy231
Active Member
I should have the front done within a couple weeks. Thats my goal anyway. Then on to axel swapping.
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Project Blue Jeep
- Thread starter Snboarder113
- Start date
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Snboarder113
Hooked
Winter prep continues.
Heated seat install, seen here.
DIY: TJ Heated Seats and Cushion Repair
https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=60650
I finally got around to fixing this bumpers design error, the opening for the cable / rope is too thin and even with a roller or a hawse it scrapes so I cut it off and repainted it. Had I used a synthetic rope it would have snapped for sure. So that’s fixed. Rewired the interior winch control to the solenoid box, been meaning to do that for awhile.
Then I did the water pump as it started dripping over summer. This was a gigantic pain in the ass, I dont remember it being this annoying on the last Jeep. Heater hose wouldn’t come off. Then I snapped the plastic shroud. But damnit there’s a brand new one In There now and nothing leaks.
Been getting the p0420 code, cat inefficiency bank one. I just replaced that banks rear o2 sensor so that’s annoying. Picked up some spark plug non foulers and we’ll see if I can ghetto fix that light.
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Heated seat install, seen here.
DIY: TJ Heated Seats and Cushion Repair
https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=60650
I finally got around to fixing this bumpers design error, the opening for the cable / rope is too thin and even with a roller or a hawse it scrapes so I cut it off and repainted it. Had I used a synthetic rope it would have snapped for sure. So that’s fixed. Rewired the interior winch control to the solenoid box, been meaning to do that for awhile.
Then I did the water pump as it started dripping over summer. This was a gigantic pain in the ass, I dont remember it being this annoying on the last Jeep. Heater hose wouldn’t come off. Then I snapped the plastic shroud. But damnit there’s a brand new one In There now and nothing leaks.
Been getting the p0420 code, cat inefficiency bank one. I just replaced that banks rear o2 sensor so that’s annoying. Picked up some spark plug non foulers and we’ll see if I can ghetto fix that light.
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Snboarder113
Hooked
I’m just realllly not a fan of fixing things in the snow.
Spark plug “non foulers”
Drill one to 1/2”
And back in she goes to the after cat, codes cleared and we shall see if it stays off.
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RockinAZJK
Caught the Bug
I love that fix, might as well ditch the cat since you’ve already got the loophole lol
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BaddestCross
Active Member
Forgive my ignorance, but what do you hope that will accomplish?
Asking because I have cat codes to deal with here pretty soon.
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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
Snboarder113
Hooked
First, I live in a state with no inspections.
Second, this fixes nothing.
Third, it’s likely illegal but who cares.
Supposedly, according to the internet, this spaces the tip of the sensor out of the stream of exhaust which causes it to read differently. While still allowing it to act and cycle normally. This will “trick” the computer to think that the cat is working better than it is, allowing the light to stay off. This is for the rear o2 sensors that do nothing but monitor cats, for codes that are only related to cat efficiency. If you’ve got real cat problems this won’t do anything for you. I think my particular issue was I replaced the rear o2 sensor as it was actually bad, but I did not replace the pre cat sensor so I think it’s just not playing nice.
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RockinAZJK
Caught the Bug
I forgot to mention, these things seem to only like the Bosch o2 sensors from my experience and that of a few others. So there’s that lol
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Snboarder113
Hooked
That's interesting, my research suggest the opposite. They say to never put a Bosch in a Jeep. I used NTK, which is the one everyone recommends. I really think the issue is the original one I left in the pre cat that the computer is comparing values against and I don't feel like fighting a 160k old michigan winter o2 sensor again unless I have to, and to be honest the next time I touch exhaust Its likely coming off for fun parts.
Also could just be the cat not working great anymore... haha. Either way, $5 later we'll see what happens.
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RockinAZJK
Caught the Bug
Weird haha might as well just keep clearing the code with a Jscan or obdfusion app and keep on keepin on [emoji1591]
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BaddestCross
Active Member
Perfect. That's exactly what I needed to know. [emoji106]
I'm gonna be replacing my manifolds and probably cats here soon so I was curious.
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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
Snboarder113
Hooked
Yeah it’s honestly just to turn off the light. I’m told in some state inspections that it fools them , but anyone that knows what an oxygen sensor looks like will spot it. I’m not messing with the exhaust until the head comes off for a rebuild. Then maybe it’ll get a header back. This will be my first Jeep ever that the engine light will be normally “off” instead of on.
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Kuboske
Active Member
This thread is interesting. You get into everything. Cutting, torching, welding, painting, wiring, (I hate wiring), clutch install...
My old YJ has that 4.0, lifter rattle. Has had for, like 8 years. Doesn't seem to be getting any worse. Don't think it will heal itself.
My theory is to just run it. Maybe really worry if it goes away.
Keep posting your work. It should give me something to read, during lunch.
My old YJ has that 4.0, lifter rattle. Has had for, like 8 years. Doesn't seem to be getting any worse. Don't think it will heal itself.
My theory is to just run it. Maybe really worry if it goes away.
Keep posting your work. It should give me something to read, during lunch.
Kuboske
Active Member
Oh, yeah, this too. I just drove my 2000, TJ. Lit up with a P0138, code. I think that has to do with the same thing. High voltage oxy sensor, cat.
I'd like to knock the cat off of the thing since I'm in a no insp. State.
How would you deal with both sensors if you run no converter?
I'd like to knock the cat off of the thing since I'm in a no insp. State.
How would you deal with both sensors if you run no converter?
Snboarder113
Hooked
Unplug the check engine lightbulb from gauge.
Your first code isn’t cat efficiency it’s a bad o2 sensor. Which will cause the engine to drink more gas.
Ole blue got a windshield today. So clear! I think I’m gonna quick rain x it before I drive it and hope it stays pretty.
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Elroy231
Active Member
My Tj is a 99, I did the cat delete. I did not remove the sensors and no check engine light has come on from this. Been about a year.
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Snboarder113
Hooked
That’s interesting, you sure the bulb didn’t burn out? Lol. Did it have the single cat or the dual? I removed the cat on my 97 (single cat) technically I left it and hollowed it out completely, and that always had the light on until I removed the bulb.
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WJCO
Meme King
Years ago, a buddy of mine removed a cat. He left the pre cat o2 sensor installed and he plugged the post cat o2 hole with a threaded plug. Then he took the post cat o2 sensor and zip tied it up to the frame somewhere so it was reading ambient air with no hydrocarbons. He had no light and no issues, lol.
Snboarder113
Hooked
Ive heard stories like this and i don’t think it works on anything remotely modern because it throws a circuit high voltage code, it needs ‘some’ exhaust to read. Wish it was that easy.
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