Snboarder113
Hooked
Yeah. That was a long one for sure. Glad it’s back. Got top on today, back to drinking more beer.
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Project Blue Jeep
- Thread starter Snboarder113
- Start date
Yeah. That was a long one for sure. Glad it’s back. Got top on today, back to drinking more beer.
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Elroy231
Active Member
Snboarder113
Hooked
Thanks.
Put some more miles on it today.
I’ve got a clunking metal on metal sound from rear like something sliding back and forth in trunk on hard left hard right turns. I can’t find it. I can’t recreate it on the ground or on jack. I flexed it a bit and can’t see anything that would be contacting or swinging on turns.
Any ideas?
Control arms are tight, shocks are shitty but functional. Springs are sitting correctly. I haven’t tried the track bar but I never took it off. Gas tank is tight. Exhaust is normal amount of wiggly. Pulled the tires pulled the brakes, axle shaft is in there tight.
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BaddestCross
Active Member
Your missing 10mm sockets rolling around? [emoji41]
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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
Snboarder113
Hooked
*
wjtstudios
Hooked
Could it be the rear DS hitting the gas tank?
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
Snboarder113
Hooked
Gas tank is behind rear axle on tj. I broke a body mount bolt in the very rear but there’s still more mounts on it now then there have ever been since I owned it. Parts on the way to fix it but that’s literally the only thing I can think of that is loose but that should be an up down bump noise. Not a sliding on sharp turns noise. [emoji848]
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wjtstudios
Hooked
That’s right, good point.
Could you isolate that body mount from the frame with a thick piece of rubber matting?
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
Snboarder113
Hooked
It’s already a mostly rubber puck so I don’t think I can change that. I got some 1/2”-13 rivnuts to repair them permanently. Haven’t had time to do it yet. Hopefully soon.
I fixed a few things here and there on the Jeep
Retorched the ugly plastic. Still haven’t decided what aftermarket replacements are going on. Ignore the crap I torched over cuz I’m lazy, not keeping these long term.
Repainted the door panels that got all scuffed up. For (expensive)specialty interior paint I am not impressed with SEM paint. It lasted like what almost a year? Yeah uncool.
Got the AC charged up and working for these 90* and humid days. I think the fog light relay needs to be replaced, no power to the piaa’s, will look into that soon too.
100 miles on the clutch now, no issues besides getting used to new pedal feel.
I like fixing small things wayyyy more than replacing floors and frame sections.
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wjtstudios
Hooked
I get it, glad your able to enjoy driving it again
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
Snboarder113
Hooked
Jeep got a little love today. Still waiting on some fun parts in the mail, and time to do it.
New coilpack, plugs, valve cover gasket, oil change.
While i had the lid off I wanted to check if all the rockers looked good as it’s had a dead lifter since I bought it that doesn’t seem to be getting any worse, looks like everything’s moving good to me. Engine will get a refresh at some point new lifters, pistons, oil pump, valve seals, bearings, etc. should be fine to get through winter as is.
https://youtu.be/SKoza4HyR2Y
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New coilpack, plugs, valve cover gasket, oil change.
While i had the lid off I wanted to check if all the rockers looked good as it’s had a dead lifter since I bought it that doesn’t seem to be getting any worse, looks like everything’s moving good to me. Engine will get a refresh at some point new lifters, pistons, oil pump, valve seals, bearings, etc. should be fine to get through winter as is.
https://youtu.be/SKoza4HyR2Y
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Elroy231
Active Member
Nice. I need to change the same gasket. Just not motivated for it. Soon I will find it.
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Snboarder113
Hooked
My Voswitch UV100 (universal install kit, they have jk and jl specific ones) got here today. Excited to play with it.
It’s similar to the switch pros but without the solid state relays and it doesn’t have any kind of Bluetooth controls.
It DOES however allow programming of the circuits to momentary/ on off/ flash / strobe. So any led light you hook up to it can be a regular light or a flashing emergency light by changing the setting. The relays are standard auto relays so if ever need replacing cheap and easy to swap. First impressions of this are it’s built damn well, the lid of the replay box latches down securely making it water tight. The cable grommets are all sealed. The switch panel itself is steel and sturdy. The mounts are beefy. So far the only thing I don’t like is that it comes with a 100amp blade style fuse, I will end up cutting that out and switching it for a 100amp 12v circuit breaker.
Oh, and light bar showed up too.
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It’s similar to the switch pros but without the solid state relays and it doesn’t have any kind of Bluetooth controls.
It DOES however allow programming of the circuits to momentary/ on off/ flash / strobe. So any led light you hook up to it can be a regular light or a flashing emergency light by changing the setting. The relays are standard auto relays so if ever need replacing cheap and easy to swap. First impressions of this are it’s built damn well, the lid of the replay box latches down securely making it water tight. The cable grommets are all sealed. The switch panel itself is steel and sturdy. The mounts are beefy. So far the only thing I don’t like is that it comes with a 100amp blade style fuse, I will end up cutting that out and switching it for a 100amp 12v circuit breaker.
Oh, and light bar showed up too.
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Snboarder113
Hooked
New o2 sensor and I did the steering gear swap for the v8 Durango that has more power than the TJ one. Tomorrow I’m replacing the rear calipers, one of them keeps hanging randomly and I’m done trying to figure out which or both that are doing it.
Also couldn’t find the right side wrench
Thanks Franklin Roosevelt
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Also couldn’t find the right side wrench
Thanks Franklin Roosevelt
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Snboarder113
Hooked
Finally some time to play [emoji3]
Light mounts:
These things SUCK. They don’t fit the windshield right at all, there are two different versions the $40 set or the $200+ set. I’m guessing the expensive ones actually fit. The design sticks both forward and sideways of the windshield frame. It also creates a RIDICULOUS amount of wind noise. I took the lights off and drove just with mounts and it was definitely the problem, unbearable at 45mph. Went to work with some blue tape covering gaps in different places and found the worst culprit was the air gap between the front of mount and windshield frame.
The foam “protectors” it come with are a joke.
Problem gap
Plastidipped to protect paint as much as possible.
Weather strip foam to fill gap, also used thinner rubber “D” strips both available at Home Depot by insulation.
My other complaint with the mounts is how far above the roof line and forward of the windshield it mounts the light so I decided to do some cutting and drilling. Ended up using the hole circled in red as the mount location.
Much better
Bed lined them after cutting and used a couple washers in between the mount and body to angle the tops inward and put a significant amount of pressure on them while tightening to get them as close to the body as possible.
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Light mounts:
These things SUCK. They don’t fit the windshield right at all, there are two different versions the $40 set or the $200+ set. I’m guessing the expensive ones actually fit. The design sticks both forward and sideways of the windshield frame. It also creates a RIDICULOUS amount of wind noise. I took the lights off and drove just with mounts and it was definitely the problem, unbearable at 45mph. Went to work with some blue tape covering gaps in different places and found the worst culprit was the air gap between the front of mount and windshield frame.
The foam “protectors” it come with are a joke.
Problem gap
Plastidipped to protect paint as much as possible.
Weather strip foam to fill gap, also used thinner rubber “D” strips both available at Home Depot by insulation.
My other complaint with the mounts is how far above the roof line and forward of the windshield it mounts the light so I decided to do some cutting and drilling. Ended up using the hole circled in red as the mount location.
Much better
Bed lined them after cutting and used a couple washers in between the mount and body to angle the tops inward and put a significant amount of pressure on them while tightening to get them as close to the body as possible.
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Last edited:
Snboarder113
Hooked
Voswitch install. This is pretty straight forward mount the relay/ fuse box find where you want the switch pane wire it up and good to go, there are two dip switches located next to the fuses, they come set to turn off if voltage drops too low (battery saver) and for constant power (have to push the power button to turn on/off) you can also set it to turn on with vehicle key power and comes with the wire and add a fuse to do that. I left it factory settings
Instructions say it’s waterproof and dust proof and recommend putting in the engine bay. I wasn’t a fan of any of the places that it would actually fit, so I decided to put it in the dash
By some miracle the space below the steering wheel is perfect sized for it, but it won’t be easily accessible, will have to take the dash panel off to pull it out and get to the insides.
I’m fine with that, it’s a couple screws and a few zip ties.
Made a couple brackets
Fits perfect. Steering wheel still had plenty of room to tilt and everything will tuck up nicely.
Since this spot is a pain in the ass to get to and I like having all my connections behind the glove box for quick access if needed. I decided that I was going to hook up all the wires and run them over to the passenger side where I can hook them to accessories instead of fishing all the different accessories to under the steering wheel.
If you’re new to wiring a couple tricks. Use a vice or vice grips to hold onto one side of your wires put the other in a drill and tighten loosely then spin the wires together to make them easier to handle and cleaner.
Make them even cleaner by using expandable wire loom with shrink tube on both sides to hold together.
Hook up the ends (and remember which color wire goes to which switch)
I decided to put the panel here for now. I might move it above the mirror later on we’ll see. Screwed into the trim and it’s adjustable on the ram ball style mount.
FedEx finally showed up with these 4 days late.
Centers are white and outside are ambers that flash. 3 wire setup so you can run them independently of each other.
Mounted and ran all the wiring underneath the windshield cowl and drilled a hole through to above the fuse box where the hook ups are now.
Mounted and tidy all the wiring.
And picked out my 8 stickers.
First impressions, I like almost all of it., I really like the customizable output by a quick press of buttons to change. Any switch can be
On/off
Momentary on
Slow blink
Flash blink
Flash pattern
Strobe pattern
Can also choose the backlight color as well as brightness however for my dash will likely stay red.
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Instructions say it’s waterproof and dust proof and recommend putting in the engine bay. I wasn’t a fan of any of the places that it would actually fit, so I decided to put it in the dash
By some miracle the space below the steering wheel is perfect sized for it, but it won’t be easily accessible, will have to take the dash panel off to pull it out and get to the insides.
I’m fine with that, it’s a couple screws and a few zip ties.
Made a couple brackets
Fits perfect. Steering wheel still had plenty of room to tilt and everything will tuck up nicely.
Since this spot is a pain in the ass to get to and I like having all my connections behind the glove box for quick access if needed. I decided that I was going to hook up all the wires and run them over to the passenger side where I can hook them to accessories instead of fishing all the different accessories to under the steering wheel.
If you’re new to wiring a couple tricks. Use a vice or vice grips to hold onto one side of your wires put the other in a drill and tighten loosely then spin the wires together to make them easier to handle and cleaner.
Make them even cleaner by using expandable wire loom with shrink tube on both sides to hold together.
Hook up the ends (and remember which color wire goes to which switch)
I decided to put the panel here for now. I might move it above the mirror later on we’ll see. Screwed into the trim and it’s adjustable on the ram ball style mount.
FedEx finally showed up with these 4 days late.
Centers are white and outside are ambers that flash. 3 wire setup so you can run them independently of each other.
Mounted and ran all the wiring underneath the windshield cowl and drilled a hole through to above the fuse box where the hook ups are now.
Mounted and tidy all the wiring.
And picked out my 8 stickers.
First impressions, I like almost all of it., I really like the customizable output by a quick press of buttons to change. Any switch can be
On/off
Momentary on
Slow blink
Flash blink
Flash pattern
Strobe pattern
Can also choose the backlight color as well as brightness however for my dash will likely stay red.
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Arrcherr
Caught the Bug
Nice work! I love the Techflex, we use that stuff a lot at work. It makes clean looking cable installs so much faster.
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Elroy231
Active Member
Nice install. Although it sounds like you went above and beyond the manufacturer directions. Looks nice and organized. Well done!
Sent from my SM-G965U using WAYALIFE mobile app
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wjtstudios
Hooked
Very nice, and great tip on turning the wire. I’ll have to remember that next time
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
Snboarder113
Hooked
Thanks, just have to install more things to plug into it now.
If you don’t overbuild things, are you even jeepin? How’s your long arm project coming along
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If you don’t overbuild things, are you even jeepin? How’s your long arm project coming along
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE