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paying exorbitant amounts to a weld shop...

Last I checked going rate for a good welder was roughly $75 /hr for things you bring to them and $100-120 /hr if you have them come to you. I would not call that exorbitant by any means. If the person knows their ass from a hole in the ground I cant see it taking more than an hour to get the weld on sliders installed after they are clamped in position.
 
Last I checked going rate for a good welder was roughly $75 /hr for things you bring to them and $100-120 /hr if you have them come to you. I would not call that exorbitant by any means. If the person knows their ass from a hole in the ground I cant see it taking more than an hour to get the weld on sliders installed after they are clamped in position.

Far more expensive than drilling and installing myself. As a matter of fact, it's infinitely more expensive than $0.
 
Last I checked going rate for a good welder was roughly $75 /hr for things you bring to them and $100-120 /hr if you have them come to you. I would not call that exorbitant by any means. If the person knows their ass from a hole in the ground I cant see it taking more than an hour to get the weld on sliders installed after they are clamped in position.

You also have to factor in the replacement price when you get a new rig. Took my LoDs off my 2010 when I traded it for my 2013, so I would have been out ~$650 + labor had I had them welded on...
 
You also have to factor in the replacement price when you get a new rig. Took my LoDs off my 2010 when I traded it for my 2013, so I would have been out ~$650 + labor had I had them welded on...

Okay, now stop with this nonsense justification :icon_crazy: this is how Internet urban legends continue to perpetrate the misinformation myths out there. First- You do realize that welding is always stronger than bolt-on. Second- when you decide to electrically glue metal to metal, that's welding, you can at any later date choose to reheat the electrically glued metals and reverse the glueing process, thats called cutting....as in with a torch. Welding is only permanent until you decide to undo it. :thumb:
 
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ya i want my old man to teach me the ways of the welder/plasma cutter. he has been a welder for over 30 years and i have no idea how! just the basics i think!

andrew -

Whoa whoa whoa! He welds also?!


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yep! he is a welding instructor at a JC and welded for the DoD for 25 years...

andrew -

Pro tip...
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If you blow through turn it down and try again.
 
Okay, now stop with this nonsense justification :icon_crazy: this is how Internet urban legends continue to perpetrate the misinformation myths out there. First- You do realize that welding is always stronger than bolt-on. Second- when you decide to electrically glue metal to metal, that's welding, you can at any later date choose to reheat the electrically glued metals and reverse the glueing process, thats called cutting....as in with a torch. Welding is only permanent until you decide to undo it. :thumb:

Lol! Say it isn't so. I thought welds were forever, like that girl I dated in high school.
 
Really, sliders are a pretty easy weld job that doesn't require a certified welder. If you know a guy with a home setup and you do the cleaning you can probably get it done for the cost of a case of beer. I prefer to use a real welder for more delicate work like on the axle but I welded mine on and I'm of average skills borrowing a friends $500 Lincoln rig.
 
Okay, now stop with this nonsense justification :icon_crazy: this is how Internet urban legends continue to perpetrate the misinformation myths out there. First- You do realize that welding is always stronger than bolt-on. Second- when you decide to electrically glue metal to metal, that's welding, you can at any later date choose to reheat the electrically glued metals and reverse the glueing process, thats called cutting....as in with a torch. Welding is only permanent until you decide to undo it. :thumb:

Haha, and as a metallurgist I would highly recommend NOT heating your frame rails numerous times. And welding is a tad more complex than "electronically glueing" as it affects all of the surrounding microstructure. This is called the Heat Affected Zone, or HAZ. The HAZ can have much lower strength properties in its core, with higher strength and more brittleness towards the edge. Then when you cut the the sliders off with a torch, you will be increasing the depth of the HAZ in the material, making the effects potentially more dangerous in the frame rails. This is why, with good welds, the failure point is typically next to the weld joint and not in the joint itself, as seen in the teraflop tire carrier fiasco.
Stop spreading your "misinformation myth" myths, Greg!
 
Speaking in rediculous, "simply" annealing the affected area would solve the problem you mention.
 
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