Dynatrac Ball Joints

So how much of a PITA are they to install? I'm debating whether I want to try to tackle this myself, or pay somebody to do it...

The actual install is the easiest part. It's the prep to get to that point that can be a pain. If you've never had your knuckles apart before, this is an all day job. And like Steve said, gather all your tools prior. I ended up buying a slide hammer to get my corroded hub bearing out of the knuckle. Took forever! Then I had to fight the knuckle battle. I used the pickle fork and a BFH for like an hour before it gave up. Pressing out the old ones was no cake walk either. I thought I was gonna break the press before they finally moved- on all four!

Not trying to deter you because I'm a huge fan of do it yourself. You learn a hell of a lot and you get a great feeling of accomplishment. Added bonus- saving the money you'd pay some schmuck who doesn't care about your jeep like you do.

Bottom line, in my opinion, it's doable but I found it to be one of the more challenging things I've done to my jeep so far.

Just an afterthought. If I had thought about it ahead of time, I would have replaced my hub bearings while I was doing the job since everything was apart at the time.
 
Well I was hoping to get it all done in a day or two. I took my time reading over the steps as I did. Took me 7.5 hours to get everything off.
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So that is how it is this morning. After seeing my upper c joint flex upwards as I tried to get the knuckle off on both sides. I decided to order the c gussets and weld them on.
 
After seeing my upper c joint flex upwards as I tried to get the knuckle off on both sides. I decided to order the c gussets and weld them on.

Great idea to do c gussets while your at it. You say your c's flexed while removing the knuckles? How did they flex? Better yet, how did you remove your knuckles?
 
Great idea to do c gussets while your at it. You say your c's flexed while removing the knuckles? How did they flex? Better yet, how did you remove your knuckles?

I used a pickle fork and a big hammer. As I smashed the pickle fork between the knuckle and upper ball joint instead of the knuckle moving the upper c was flexing upwards.ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1473617155.454967.jpg
 
When re assembling everything make sure to load up on the antiseize on pretty much everything. Any metal on metal contact I slather it on. If you ever have to pull something apart at a later date it will be a hell of a lot easier.
 
I have yet to have a need to rebuild or replace the Dynatrac ball joints I have. Don't know anyone running rare parts.

I have increasingly worse death wobble coming on and have failing ball joints on the right side. Eddie, how many miles on the Dynatracs? I am seriously considering the Dynatracs, but the price has to be on my mind.
 
I have increasingly worse death wobble coming on and have failing ball joints on the right side. Eddie, how many miles on the Dynatracs? I am seriously considering the Dynatracs, but the price has to be on my mind.

There is an old saying that mcpuck told me. "It's expensive to be cheap."

I went thru multiple other sets of ball joints at 100-200 bucks a pop to have have them fail on me and need to spend that money again. Finally bit the bullet for the dynatracs and I couldn't be happier. With regular maintenance they should last for a VERY long time.

Long story short just bit the bullet and get them. They are worth every penny


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I've had my lift on for about 3 months and 3,000 miles. My Jeep has a total of about 23,000 miles and I am really bummed my ball joints are already crap. I ordered some Dynatracs today and I hope they last. I will tear the Jeep down this weekend and let it sit until the new ball joints arrive. It's too unnerving to drive it anymore.
 
Yeah I tore mine down. When I did I realized how weak the C's are and ordered gussets to weld on before I pressed the new ball joints in. IMG_1475873404.077397.jpg
My jeep was down for a week! It sucked but well worth the wait!




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I wanted to bump this thread because I rebuilding my Ball Joints.

I have the same style with the set screws on top. I found the rebuild instructions on their site, but my lower ball joints are not found.

I removed the two set screws, but can't figure out what to do from here. Has anyone rebuilt these lowers?

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I wanted to bump this thread because I rebuilding my Ball Joints.

I have the same style with the set screws on top. I found the rebuild instructions on their site, but my lower ball joints are not found.

I removed the two set screws, but can't figure out what to do from here. Has anyone rebuilt these lowers?

View attachment 304623

Overlanderjk just did his but I can't remember which style he had.
 
Yea, looks like the screws should release the cap, but I can see that it could be really tricky to take that apart. Subscribed, it’ll be good to know for when it’s time to rebuild mine. Hope you get it figured out.
I found this video on YouTube, but it looks like older style ball joints.
https://youtu.be/BY2UEIlKEkY
 
I watched that guys video ^ and he pressed in those studs incorrectly. The instructions said specifically to leave a quarter inch and he pressed the stud completely into the ball socket.


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Dynatrac emailed me back saying you remove the set screws and can use a punch to tap out the heim and stud. I have tried this and already bent two of my punches. I called dynatrac and I am waiting to hear back from one of their techs. Bumping this again to see if anyone has done this and provide any insight? I am on the verge of renting a ball joint tool and removing everything.
 
And they're out! After 3 bent punches and one bent allen key. Lots of meticulous hammering with the punch back and forth, back and forth. And I only missed the punch and smashed my finger 3 times! My grease seals blew out and was conscientious about filling them with grease... but with the seals barely on I had a tiny bit of rust developing making it stubborn.

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SO, question regarding greasing the ball joints. The reason my lower seals blew out is because my mechanic insisted these only be greased when there is no weight on the ball joints. So he put my Jeep on the lift, packed a lot of grease in, and the seals blew out the next day. And I drove around and wheeled on them until the death wobble worsened...

What is the proper way to grease? With weight? Or no weight on the joints?
 
And they're out! After 3 bent punches and one bent allen key. Lots of meticulous hammering with the punch back and forth, back and forth. And I only missed the punch and smashed my finger 3 times! My grease seals blew out and was conscientious about filling them with grease... but with the seals barely on I had a tiny bit of rust developing making it stubborn.

View attachment 304825
Jeez, so much for an easy repair. 🙄

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
SO, question regarding greasing the ball joints. The reason my lower seals blew out is because my mechanic insisted these only be greased when there is no weight on the ball joints. So he put my Jeep on the lift, packed a lot of grease in, and the seals blew out the next day. And I drove around and wheeled on them until the death wobble worsened...

What is the proper way to grease? With weight? Or no weight on the joints?

I don't see what difference it would make. I've seen many boots tear over the years from techs overgreasing the joints to the point that the boot tears. Never really thought about whether weight should be on them or not.
 
Response from dynatrac regarding greasing.

"The Heim has a permanent lubrication seal on the inside, the grease is used just to keep foreign contaminants from getting to all the internals.

You want to grease it when its on its own weight, don’t try to force in the grease, just enough until you feel that its full.

We also recommend to use a hand grease gun, not an automatic grease gun."
 
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