Dynatrac Ball Joints

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If you have this older style where you need to hammer the joint out through these set screws I would chase the threads. I messed my threads up a little when I was hammering.


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AlStew said:
View attachment 305088

If you have this older style where you need to hammer the joint out through these set screws I would chase the threads. I messed my threads up a little when I was hammering.

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Click to expand...

resurrecting this thread because both Dynatrac upper and lower are shot. I pressed them both out but then found the ball joints I got from O'Reilly had splines on them and were camber adjustable...piss off factor#1

Luckily the upper Dynatrac rebuild turned out to be fairly easy. So I took a shot at the lower, big mistake and waste of time.

The lower joint with the 2 set screws is a piece of shit with no instructions.

If I'm reading this correctly, removing the set screws does not actually release any cap but you use the set screw holes as access holes to insert a punch into and punch out the stud??

So you have to alternate side to side with a small punch until it's out? that's fucked.

I'm pissed for wasting an entire day dealing with this shit.

I finally found a lower joint with no splines at Autozone. But, because I only have the Jeep, I had to wait for a ride to chase down parts.

While the upper is actually easy to rebuild, the lowers make the overall choice of pressing them out and pressing new ones in the faster option.

I need to check the passenger side but will order ball joints before I tackle that shit show.
 
jeeeep said:
resurrecting this thread because both Dynatrac upper and lower are shot. I pressed them both out but then found the ball joints I got from O'Reilly had splines on them and were camber adjustable...piss off factor#1

Luckily the upper Dynatrac rebuild turned out to be fairly easy. So I took a shot at the lower, big mistake and waste of time.

The lower joint with the 2 set screws is a piece of shit with no instructions.

If I'm reading this correctly, removing the set screws does not actually release any cap but you use the set screw holes as access holes to insert a punch into and punch out the stud??

So you have to alternate side to side with a small punch until it's out? that's fucked.

I'm pissed for wasting an entire day dealing with this shit.

I finally found a lower joint with no splines at Autozone. But, because I only have the Jeep, I had to wait for a ride to chase down parts.

While the upper is actually easy to rebuild, the lowers make the overall choice of pressing them out and pressing new ones in the faster option.

I need to check the passenger side but will order ball joints before I tackle that shit show.
Click to expand...

I think Overlanderjk ran into this issue as well.
 
jeeeep said:
resurrecting this thread because both Dynatrac upper and lower are shot. I pressed them both out but then found the ball joints I got from O'Reilly had splines on them and were camber adjustable...piss off factor#1

Luckily the upper Dynatrac rebuild turned out to be fairly easy. So I took a shot at the lower, big mistake and waste of time.

The lower joint with the 2 set screws is a piece of shit with no instructions.

If I'm reading this correctly, removing the set screws does not actually release any cap but you use the set screw holes as access holes to insert a punch into and punch out the stud??

So you have to alternate side to side with a small punch until it's out? that's fucked.

I'm pissed for wasting an entire day dealing with this shit.

I finally found a lower joint with no splines at Autozone. But, because I only have the Jeep, I had to wait for a ride to chase down parts.

While the upper is actually easy to rebuild, the lowers make the overall choice of pressing them out and pressing new ones in the faster option.

I need to check the passenger side but will order ball joints before I tackle that shit show.
Click to expand...

When I did my lowers. I got it all prepared but instead of using a punch through tiny holes. I put the castle nut back on the stud. Then straddled the stud with a Crescent wrench, using the castle nut as a stop. Then tapping the side of the crescent wrench with a hammer. It popped right out.


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black pearl said:
When I did my lowers. I got it all prepared but instead of using a punch through tiny holes. I put the castle nut back on the stud. Then straddled the stud with a Crescent wrench, using the castle nut as a stop. Then tapping the side of the crescent wrench with a hammer. It popped right out.

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Click to expand...

that's a smart and much easier way to do it if the stud is stuck, also seems like there's no need to remove the set screws using this method.

Once I got my calm brain in place I saw the circle clip, removed it and the stud dropped out.

I won't put the ball joint back in though, the top of the stud and inside of the cap look like they've made contact and both surfaces are rough to the touch.

I'm sure me trying to press the "cap" off didn't help. :doh::doh::doh:

So after seeing how the lower is actually done, time wise it may be quicker. You do need to let the cement for the lower seal cure for the 3 hours before greasing where pressing in new joints it's grease and go.

mileage wise, I got about 55k+ miles out if them, which is better than OEM style joints since running 37's on beadlocks
 
In terms of maintenance, how often are you guys greasing them, and what type of grease are you using? I have been running mine since last December
 
kyle521 said:
In terms of maintenance, how often are you guys greasing them, and what type of grease are you using? I have been running mine since last December
Click to expand...

I do mine every other oil change or sooner. I use cheap parts store grease.
 
jeeeep said:
that's a smart and much easier way to do it if the stud is stuck, also seems like there's no need to remove the set screws using this method.

Once I got my calm brain in place I saw the circle clip, removed it and the stud dropped out.

I won't put the ball joint back in though, the top of the stud and inside of the cap look like they've made contact and both surfaces are rough to the touch.

I'm sure me trying to press the "cap" off didn't help. :doh::doh::doh:

So after seeing how the lower is actually done, time wise it may be quicker. You do need to let the cement for the lower seal cure for the 3 hours before greasing where pressing in new joints it's grease and go.

mileage wise, I got about 55k+ miles out if them, which is better than OEM style joints since running 37's on beadlocks
Click to expand...

I know what you mean I did a lot of head scratching figuring out the lowers.
But once you figure it out you'll never forget it! I thought it was silly when I heard to punch it out using the tiny holes. [emoji23]
I'm alright with the wait time on them as I don't have to do it very often. I only got 14,000 miles out of the factory ones. And the rebuild kit isn't all that expensive.


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