12' Gecko Build

desertrunner said:
Didn't get the chance to measure compressed length before going in to work tonight. I'm still gonna pull the coils and measure my uptravel and toss a tire on there and see where I clear and where I don't to measure for bump stops. I'm most likely going to have to add bump anyway so if where I bottom out at at full bump and see if the compressed lenght of the 330s is feasible which they might not work anyway.
Because I am not running any bump stop in the rear right now I think my tires just rub the shit out of my wheel well. I will check that next and update when I do

Last time I checked all this stuff I was on 33s I never went through this process when I slapped the 37s on so I should have done this a while ago


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Yeah... You know how I'm setup, and my shocks are right at the compressed length they need to be. Just short of bottoming out. Longer shocks would need more bump stop for sure.



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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
BaddestCross said:
Yeah... You know how I'm setup, and my shocks are right at the compressed length they need to be. Just short of bottoming out. Longer shocks would need more bump stop for sure.



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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
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Yeah since you are on the HDs and with spacers I imagine your a little bit taller than me on just the MDs with no spacers but tomorrow I'll get out there and measure for compressed length.

I think in the end I am just going to shorten my sway bar links add 1" bump stop and be done. Sure I could do some extra work to make the 330s work but mehh.... That's more work that's not all that necessary. I'll just have a little less down travel in the rear. If it was convenient I would buy the 330s but im thinking it's not at this point l.

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desertrunner said:
Yeah since you are on the HDs and with spacers I imagine your a little bit taller than me on just the MDs with no spacers but tomorrow I'll get out there and measure for compressed length.

I think in the end I am just going to shorten my sway bar links add 1" bump stop and be done. Sure I could do some extra work to make the 330s work but mehh.... That's more work that's not all that necessary. I'll just have a little less down travel in the rear. If it was convenient I would buy the 330s but im thinking it's not at this point l.

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Lol. I wish.. with all the weight in the rear, she sits almost level.

I think you'll be fine going that route. Cheaper too.



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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
Finally doing some cycling with the coils out and this is just shy of the compressed length of my shock.
As you can kinda make out in the photos I'm just short of full bump and you can make out where my sway bar link was hitting my brake line. And I was pretty damn close on my trimming but maybe need to take a little more out.

Plan moving forward, shorten my sway bar links add enough bump to stop my shocks before compressed length and put it all back together. I like the height it's at so I don't want to add any more to it unless I add a heavy rear bumper. 20190619_135235.jpg20190619_135248.jpg20190619_135254.jpg

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desertrunner said:
Finally doing some cycling with the coils out and this is just shy of the compressed length of my shock.
As you can kinda make out in the photos I'm just short of full bump and you can make out where my sway bar link was hitting my brake line. And I was pretty damn close on my trimming but maybe need to take a little more out.

Plan moving forward, shorten my sway bar links add enough bump to stop my shocks before compressed length and put it all back together. I like the height it's at so I don't want to add any more to it unless I add a heavy rear bumper. View attachment 329312View attachment 329313View attachment 329314

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Awesome! Looks like you've found the solution. [emoji106]



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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
Does anyone know of a good stackable rear lower bump stop set that I can use for just 1-1.5"? Something like metalcloaks but that's not $85.... Or metalcloak haha

I could try to make my own with hockey pucks like cross or cutting up some 1" square iron but for the sake of lazyness I'd rather just buy some. Most I'm finding are 3 or 4" tall and that's just too much Screenshot_20190619-144344_Chrome.jpg

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I would use hockey pucks and stainless wood screws. Pretty much the same as the metal cloak set up.

I think Synergy just came out with a modular set up, but its spendy and I’m not sure it works for the rear.


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fiend said:
I would use hockey pucks and stainless wood screws. Pretty much the same as the metal cloak set up.

I think Synergy just came out with a modular set up, but its spendy and I’m not sure it works for the rear.


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Can you put a nut on the end of a wood screw?
With the hockey pucks I figured I'd have to do something like cross did (hopefully he doesn't mind me posting his pic) Resized_20190611_084640.jpg

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desertrunner said:
Can you put a nut on the end of a wood screw?
With the hockey pucks I figured I'd have to do something like cross did (hopefully he doesn't mind me posting his pic) View attachment 329317

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Yeah bolt the first one like that and then attach more on top of that with wood screws. Probably will need to predrill holes for them through. Also note how the metal cloak ones step forward with each puck. You’ll probably need to replicate something like that.


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I gorilla glued and clamped my rear puck bump stops on as a temporary solution. They still haven't started come off though so....

I was planning on tapping the bump "pad" so I wouldn't have to use nuts though. Just a thought.
 
fiend said:
Yeah bolt the first one like that and then attach more on top of that with wood screws. Probably will need to predrill holes for them through. Also note how the metal cloak ones step forward with each puck. You’ll probably need to replicate something like that.


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Oh I only need one, I guess that's where the confusion was haha
Stotch said:
I gorilla glued and clamped my rear puck bump stops on as a temporary solution. They still haven't started come off though so....

I was planning on tapping the bump "pad" so I wouldn't have to use nuts though. Just a thought.
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Humm I do have some JB weld in the garage I guess I could give that a shot and see if it holds haha. I didn't think I could get it to stick rubber to metal but maybe it will.

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desertrunner said:
Humm I do have some JB weld in the garage I guess I could give that a shot and see if it holds haha. I didn't think I could get it to stick rubber to metal but maybe it will.
Click to expand...

I didn't really think it would last that long either, but I sanded the surfaces and clamped it really well; it's held for a couple years now and shows no sign of loosening up :idontknow:
 
Stotch said:
I didn't really think it would last that long either, but I sanded the surfaces and clamped it really well; it's held for a couple years now and shows no sign of loosening up :idontknow:
Click to expand...
Found some gorilla glue laying around the house I'll give it a shot and see how it holds especially through our winters here. If it doesn't well guess I'm out a $2 hockey puck haha

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With the front steering components done, the rear sway bar links shortened added bump stop and clearance checked I think I'm pretty well set for the summer now. Not much else to do on this thing at the moment. I did finally order the Evo rear fascia and D ring mounts and been wanting to put the rotopax on the spare tire so that might happen soon too. Now if only MT would finally give us summer so I can go wheel!

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desertrunner said:
Found some gorilla glue laying around the house I'll give it a shot and see how it holds especially through our winters here. If it doesn't well guess I'm out a $2 hockey puck haha
Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly, hope it works for you!

I've still got spare pucks sitting in the garage in case these ever decide to let go.
 
Well it's never ending with this damn thing. About 2 weeks ago maybe 3 I started noticing a squeak between 30-40mph while coasting or nearly coasting. When accelerating or braking it goes away and it only seems to be at that speed but the squeak increases and decreases in rate through those speeds. I fear that somehow I managed to bend a rear flange. Being on 37x13.5 Cooper's and 1.5" spacers (3" total backspace) I can't say I'm super surprised.

I propped the rear up and spun the tires as fast as I could by hand and there is no visible wobble but I haven't had someone hop in and spin them faster in gear. Not sure I want to get them up to squeaking speed on jack stands just yet.

I'm wondering if I hit something hard enough on my last camping trip about 2 weeks ago to slightly bend a flange. After all the work I have done in the last few weeks I'm burnt out on Jeep work for the time being. My rear pads need changed out to any maybe that's the culprit but it sure sounds like a bent flange symptoms. I just don't have the energy to pull the spacers and rotors right now to check the runout on the flange. Ughhhhh

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