What was done to your rig this week?

jdofmemi said:
Nice work.

I am assuming that the slight adjustment you mentioned is to get the contact patch a little bit deeper.

At least it's out of the Jeep, and easier to change it than doing it underneath the Jeep.
Click to expand...

Exactly... Going to shim the pinion a bit more then reset backlash again
 
Installed some AirRite Rear airbags which helped a ton when I was loaded down with all my gear.
Also installed a new radiator due to a leak between the metal/plastic.
 

Attachments

  • 65179620-19E2-4B20-8300-59E5113ABDAD.jpg
    65179620-19E2-4B20-8300-59E5113ABDAD.jpg
    85.2 KB · Views: 103
  • 53962C06-9A30-4F2D-BC8F-B1CCEE94E385.jpg
    53962C06-9A30-4F2D-BC8F-B1CCEE94E385.jpg
    120.4 KB · Views: 105
Well I installed my new 1350 front drive shaft. 4H and L work. When I went to put it back into 2H as I was rolling forward, the shifter started jumping. Found it odd, so I stopped and went to reverse real slow and felt a bind. Put it in 4H and L and it reversed fine. I was thinking something in the T-case wasn't lining up so I went forward and backwards a few times and back to 2H. Still the shifter was jumping. Parked it and crawled underneath to take a look. I thought maybe the linkage clip broke and it was going all the way into 2. As I was looking at that I noticed what appeared to be fresh metal marks on the new CV bolts. Further investigation revealed that the bolt heads seem to be hitting the T-case shifter lever. Has anyone run into this before? My first though is to file or grind down that portion of the heads so its not contacting it. Another option would be to thread the bolts the opposite way through the CV then into the flange. Only problem i see with that is I don't the threads are going to lime up and the DS and flange won't mate up flat causing vibrations. Looking at the rear bolts, the heads seem to be about half as long as the ones in the front. I can measure to double check the length and possibly swap the rears with the fronts. If you've run into this before what was your solution? Any help is appreciated.

Sent from my SM-G973U using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Last edited:
jesse3638 said:
Well I installed my new 1350 front drive shaft. 4H and L work. When I went to put it back into 2H as I was rolling forward, the shifter started jumping. Found it odd, so I stopped and went to reverse real slow and felt a bind. Put it in 4H and L and it reversed fine. I was thinking something in the T-case wasn't lining up so I went forward and backwards a few times and back to 2H. Still the shifter was jumping. Parked it and crawled underneath to take a look. I thought maybe the linkage clip broke and it was going all the way into 2. As I was looking at that I noticed what appeared to be fresh metal marks on the new CV bolts. Further investigation revealed that the bolt heads seem to be hitting the T-case shifter lever. Has anyone run into this before? My first though is to file or grind down that portion of the heads so its not contacting it. Another option would be to thread the bolts the opposite way through the CV then into the flange. Only problem i see with that is I don't the threads are going to lime up and the DS and flange won't mate up flat causing vibrations. Looking at the rear bolts, the heads seem to be about half as long as the ones in the front. I can measure to double check the length and possibly swap the rears with the fronts. If you've run into this before what was your solution? Any help is appreciated.

Sent from my SM-G973U using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Pics?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
jesse3638 said:
I actually couldn't see what was hitting. The poc I took actually helped me to see it...haha.
Click to expand...

BaddestCross said:
I know there's some bracket that needed to be ground down on mine... I've got a pic somewhere but can't find it right now.



--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
Click to expand...

Adjustments.jpg

This is looking from the center of the Jeep towards driver side... I cut the driver side ear off the bracket holding the cable.
 
JKbrick said:
Wow ya the yoke on your transfer case looks really long. Mine is more the white guy version [emojView attachment 355938i23][emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...
Actually its the same length as the 1310 yoke I had on there. The drive line guy thought it was going to be longer too.
TrailHunter said:
View attachment 355939

This is looking from the center of the Jeep towards driver side... I cut the driver side ear off the bracket holding the cable.
Click to expand...
Yeah thats what I thought I may have to trim but that's not hitting at all. It's definitely the bolt heads on the t-case lever. Just need to figure out the best way to take care of it.

Sent from my SM-G973U using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
jesse3638 said:
Actually its the same length as the 1310 yoke I had on there. The drive line guy thought it was going to be longer too.Yeah thats what I thought I may have to trim but that's not hitting at all. It's definitely the bolt heads on the t-case lever. Just need to figure out the best way to take care of it.

Sent from my SM-G973U using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

It looks to me like you could grind a small notch in the arm to get it to clear without making it too weak.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom