What was done to your rig this week?

PokerStogey said:
That's a pretty cool way to do it man, looks good. Do you get much rattle with the magnet at only one end?


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Nope, I can’t hear any rattle. I’ve got a soft top, so maybe it’s being drowned out. Got to use it for the first time yesterday when I went and road my bike on some trails. I set my water bottle and helmet on it. It held up pretty well. Can’t wait to use it for actual food prep/boiling water for coffee in December.


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CalSgt said:
Started cutting shit up

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Tip: Old cupcake pans are great for sorting hardware
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I remember doing that. I was dumb and didn't pull the driveshafts or axles. Would have made my life easier..haha. It was tough and frustrating at times, but a lot of fun and totally worth it. Good luck!

I put 50 more miles on the new gears today. Less than 150 miles to go. Hoping to get it done before Thanksgiving...:)

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Snboarder113 said:
Just debating what can actually handle winter here. A lot of guys swear by heims, some say no maintenance needed, others are spraying them once a week in the winter with wd40 to stop the rust. Just too many options and I haven’t researched enough yet, also the TJ parts market is getting smaller and more pricey.


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Try Original ULTRA Tef-Gel, this is the description:

Stops Salt Water corrosion on all metals, works in fresh water too. Waterproof: Replaces petroleum greases that wash away. Replaces Silicone to lubricate

I've talked to a some RV'rs that swear by it and also asked a fishing guide what they use on the coast.

I'm rebuilding my Chamber Pro II and will be using it on all the bolts, it's also supposed to be good at controlling corrosion between metals.

The old bolts were seized to the inserts and having to replace at least 1/2 of them :doh:

Also used it on about 1/3 of the bolts on each wheel of my current JK machete bead locks.

I didn't do it on all the bolts as I wanted to have some sort of comparison and wondered if they would work loose, After 3 months and at least 600 miles they are still tight.
 
jeeeep said:
Try Original ULTRA Tef-Gel, this is the description:

Stops Salt Water corrosion on all metals, works in fresh water too. Waterproof: Replaces petroleum greases that wash away. Replaces Silicone to lubricate

I've talked to a some RV'rs that swear by it and also asked a fishing guide what they use on the coast.

I'm rebuilding my Chamber Pro II and will be using it on all the bolts, it's also supposed to be good at controlling corrosion between metals.

The old bolts were seized to the inserts and having to replace at least 1/2 of them :doh:

Also used it on about 1/3 of the bolts on each wheel of my current JK machete bead locks.

I didn't do it on all the bolts as I wanted to have some sort of comparison and wondered if they would work loose, After 3 months and at least 600 miles they are still tight.
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Sounds like what 19yj94 was just telling me about


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Alright got the gear oil changed. Nothing out of the ordinary. It was surprisingly dark for 500 miles. Also swapped the front 1310 T-case yoke out for the 1350 flange. Ill have 4x4 again soon...haha.

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Got the gears almost done, might make a slight adjustment. I need to wait until after Thursday to do final assembly because I need to pick up my pinion yoke from Driveline & Gear service in Reno. Getting the T-Case flanges at the same time.

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Also got the rear control arm brackets burned in, that was a bitch getting all the nooks and crannies
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CalSgt said:
Got the gears almost done, might make a slight adjustment. I need to wait until after Thursday to do final assembly because I need to pick up my pinion yoke from Driveline & Gear service in Reno. Getting the T-Case flanges at the same time.

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Also got the rear control arm brackets burned in, that was a bitch getting all the nooks and crannies
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Looks great man. Nice job on the brackets!!!
 
CalSgt said:
Got the gears almost done, might make a slight adjustment. I need to wait until after Thursday to do final assembly because I need to pick up my pinion yoke from Driveline & Gear service in Reno. Getting the T-Case flanges at the same time.

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Also got the rear control arm brackets burned in, that was a bitch getting all the nooks and crannies
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Nice work.

I am assuming that the slight adjustment you mentioned is to get the contact patch a little bit deeper.

At least it's out of the Jeep, and easier to change it than doing it underneath the Jeep.
 
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