What problems does your Jeep have this week?

Just a broken u joint and axle shaft, broken track bar, bent tie rod on my dynatrac xd/pr60, soda canned new dynomax muffler and Adams rear driveshaft did some work.


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Serious shake in the front end, under 40 is nerve wracking, above 40 it’s undrivable. HD adjustable track bar gave up. Threads are stripped so it has about an inch of play in it. I’ll post pictures when the new one shows up. Anything special/important I need to know about replacing it?


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Gadget said:
Serious shake in the front end, under 40 is nerve wracking, above 40 it’s undrivable. HD adjustable track bar gave up. Threads are stripped so it has about an inch of play in it. I’ll post pictures when the new one shows up. Anything special/important I need to know about replacing it?


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Use a ratchet strap to help recenter the Jeep Over the axle and check both mount locations that the holes weren’t out of round. I’ll have to check but I believe you torque them to 125.


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I haven’t posted in this thread much, but here I go - first nice day this spring and the wife decided that the wind was a little much as we entered the freeway. Up went the windows and on went the air,,,let me say that again, and on went the air.....no cold air [emoji35]. Thinking that the refrigerant leaked out, we continued on our way. As we got off the freeway and stopped the engine stumbled and almost died. I immediately turned the air off and made it home without any further issue. Upon inspection, at idle with the air on the compressor clutch engages makes the engine stumble and then disengages. Then I turned off the air and turned on the defroster. Immediately the clutch engaged and stayed engaged with the belt slipping. I immediately turned off the defroster and the engine.

I figure that the compressor is froze so I unplugged it so I can continue to use the defroster. Since the system is still charged I’m thinking about taking it in for the repair.

Anyone ever tackle this repair by renting the equipment being recovery pump, vacuum pump and charging manifold?
 
sipafz said:
I haven’t posted in this thread much, but here I go - first nice day this spring and the wife decided that the wind was a little much as we entered the freeway. Up went the windows and on went the air,,,let me say that again, and on went the air.....no cold air [emoji35]. Thinking that the refrigerant leaked out, we continued on our way. As we got off the freeway and stopped the engine stumbled and almost died. I immediately turned the air off and made it home without any further issue. Upon inspection, at idle with the air on the compressor clutch engages makes the engine stumble and then disengages. Then I turned off the air and turned on the defroster. Immediately the clutch engaged and stayed engaged with the belt slipping. I immediately turned off the defroster and the engine.

I figure that the compressor is froze so I unplugged it so I can continue to use the defroster. Since the system is still charged I’m thinking about taking it in for the repair.

Anyone ever tackle this repair by renting the equipment being recovery pump, vacuum pump and charging manifold?
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Yes and no, done the repairs but didn't rent. Used the a/c machine at a buddies shop a couple times and once just paid a shop to evac the system and witnessed how much freon they pulled out. Went home and replaced parts, took it back to the shop and had them recharge. Much cheaper that way.

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98XJ06LJ said:
Yes and no, done the repairs but didn't rent. Used the a/c machine at a buddies shop a couple times and once just paid a shop to evac the system and witnessed how much freon they pulled out. Went home and replaced parts, took it back to the shop and had them recharge. Much cheaper that way.

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I’m going to call around on Monday. I’ll get a quote from my local dealership for shits and giggles along with a couple quotes from a local independent that does decent work. The compressor is $363 from Napa so I will see what the cost is evacuate and recharge the system along with the total repair. It looks to be a pretty easy swap so I’m comfortable doing the grunt work to save a few bucks.
 
After the Ring and Pinion rebuild, rear axle is spewing the diff fluid up the breather tube if I drive at 70 and above. Though it was overflow, drove to Panama City and back and found the the pumpkin only had a quart left so change the fluid and took it back to the shop for them to check what the hell is going on.
 
So I found this during a tire rotation today. Looks like the right rear sway bar link bolt has rubbed/is rubbing on the tire. Also looks like it’s making contact with the brake line in 2 places. Also looks like the sway bar shifted towards driver side for some reason. Should an adjustable rear track bar fix this? Should I get shorter links? Thanks.

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My dumbass wasn’t paying attention while greasing control arms and blew a Johnny joint. Fml. I guess I’m gonna learn how to rebuild um soon... is it cool to drive around town like this until the new stuff comes in or no?

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-AINOKEA- said:
Yup. That little black slug in the pic looks like grease but it’s actually rubber from the joint.


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Are you sure? I find it hard to believe the rubber would push out like that before the grease. Take the arm off and inspect.


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OverlanderJK said:
Are you sure? I find it hard to believe the rubber would push out like that before the grease. Take the arm off and inspect.


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Yup. 100% positive. Grease may have been coming out beforehand but I was distracted and kept pumping until I heard a pop. Total dumbass move. 4 rebuild kits and Currie rebuild tool on order. We’ll see how it goes.


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Has anyone added the greaseable bolts Currie offers? Or rebuilt with this kit?

Damn thing with Johnny joints is that they are like king shocks. Expensive as fuck. And just as expensive to service or rebuild. After buying the kits, install tool, misc crap you could just buy brand new joints. lol

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HighwayTrout said:
Has anyone added the greaseable bolts Currie offers? Or rebuilt with this kit?

Damn thing with Johnny joints is that they are like king shocks. Expensive as fuck. And just as expensive to service or rebuild. After buying the kits, install tool, misc crap you could just buy brand new joints. lol

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Do you have to buy the rebuild kit with the hole in the sleeve to use a greasable bolt or are all the Johnny joints made with the hole in the center?
 
nbunga said:
Do you have to buy the rebuild kit with the hole in the sleeve to use a greasable bolt or are all the Johnny joints made with the hole in the center?
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I don’t know.
I’m thinking they don’t come this way originally. Would be nice to grease thru the bolt though.
 
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