Trail Ready Beadlock Wheels Installation Write-Up

Guascone said:
Thanks for the answer!

Method wheels are threaded on the aluminium? Right?
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I can't tell for sure from their install page but it looks like they may thread directly into the aluminum. Maybe someone with experience with their wheels can answer this one.
 
cozdude said:
The inner bead is held in by a huge outer lip and a huge inner lip to keep it from popping off. It's a both to pop by hand and that's why eddie takes them to a tire shop to dismount the inner bead.

You can kinda see on my chamber pros the large inner lip
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Got it. Thanks.
 
Tanktitan said:
Thanks for the write up. Just curious what the wheel set weighed?
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Sorry, never weighed them but if I recall, they weigh about 30 lbs. each.

Benito said:
if these were mounted on ATX slabs/Chamber Pros would there be a gap between the ring and wheel since those wheels don't have spacers? what about the 37" coopers on ATX wheels? are the spacers absolutely necessary, or could you tighten the bolts down enough to close the gap?
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cozdude said:
I believe the spacer is a trail ready and method wheel thing only. Those are the only two I have seen the spacers used on.

But yes my 37" coopers and chamber pros are clamped nice and tight
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What cozdude said, to the best of my knowledge, the spacers are a Trail Ready and Method wheel thing. They are NOT needed on an ATX wheel to close the gap.

mastrcruse said:
How do you tell if you need the spacers? I have trail readys and probably gonna go with trail Grapplers 40-13.5. Thanks! This is very helpful to me since I'm new to beadlocks!
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As you're tightening your rings down, you may see it deform in a conical shape a bit as in, the edge making contact with the tire sits higher and the edge inside the wheel dips downward. This is TOTALLY NORMAL however, IF you get to this point and you're already getting up to 20 ft. lbs. of torque and still have a BIG gap, you need to install the spacers.
 
WJCO said:
Although I doubt I'll ever run beadlocks, I still love seeing this stuff. Great write-up. Question I've always wondered: What keeps the tire from not coming off the inboard side? I understand the outer side being clamped, but what about the inner bead?
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As Steve pointed out, there is a lip that bead must be seated on. You can see in this pic that I am using pry bars to get the bead on.

20170604174337-df4bc9ec.jpg


Guascone said:
I have two questions...:

-How can I recognize when it's mandatory to use a spacer on a wheel?

-Are the bolt thread directly made on the aluminium or are there some metallic insert?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Again, as you're tightening your rings down, you may see it deform in a conical shape a bit as in, the edge making contact with the tire sits higher and the edge inside the wheel dips downward. This is TOTALLY NORMAL however, IF you get to this point and you're already getting up to 20 ft. lbs. of torque and still have a BIG gap, you need to install the spacers.

Also, the bolts thread directly into the aluminum and that's why tightening to the proper torque is so necessary.

Ddays said:
When you get started with the rings and see how big that gap is between the ring and wheel you'll swear there is no way in hell that they will ever clamp together. They will, it just takes a while. You have to keep chasing the bolts in a circle until they do. Never mounted anything but Coopers but they have one monster of a bead. Not sure how they compare to Nitto's though.

Not sure about the spacer but the ring bolts thread into steel inserts in the wheel.
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The Coopers are thicker than Nitto's. Also, ATX uses steel inserts but so far I could see, there weren't any on the Trail Ready wheels.

Guascone said:
Thanks for the answer!

Method wheels are threaded on the aluminium? Right?
Click to expand...

Ddays said:
I can't tell for sure from their install page but it looks like they may thread directly into the aluminum. Maybe someone with experience with their wheels can answer this one.
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I believe so.
 
wayoflife said:
As Steve pointed out, there is a lip that bead must be seated on. You can see in this pic that I am using pry bars to get the bead on.

20170604174337-df4bc9ec.jpg




Again, as you're tightening your rings down, you may see it deform in a conical shape a bit as in, the edge making contact with the tire sits higher and the edge inside the wheel dips downward. This is TOTALLY NORMAL however, IF you get to this point and you're already getting up to 20 ft. lbs. of torque and still have a BIG gap, you need to install the spacers.

Also, the bolts thread directly into the aluminum and that's why tightening to the proper torque is so necessary.



The Coopers are thicker than Nitto's. Also, ATX uses steel inserts but so far I could see, there weren't any on the Trail Ready wheels.





I believe so.
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Thanks for your explanation!
I was worried because I seen on my wheels that tightening the bolt the ring has assumed a conic shape...anyway after the bolt has reach the right torque the ring was in contact with the wheel...
 
WJCO said:
Although I doubt I'll ever run beadlocks, I still love seeing this stuff. Great write-up. Question I've always wondered: What keeps the tire from not coming off the inboard side? I understand the outer side being clamped, but what about the inner bead?
Click to expand...
The inside bead of the tire just seats down in the inner part of the rim, like a normal tire. Only the outside bead gets clamped.
Guascone said:
I have two questions...:

-How can I recognize when it's mandatory to use a spacer on a wheel?

-Are the bolt thread directly made on the aluminium or are there some metallic insert?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Only the TrailReady beadlocks use the extra shims for the outer locking bead. And yes, all of the bolts that clamp the ring onto the rim thread into a threaded insert that is replaceable. As far as I know, all beadlock wheels use a threaded insert for the ring bolts.


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Guascone said:
Thanks for your explanation!
I was worried because I seen on my wheels that tightening the bolt the ring has assumed a conic shape...anyway after the bolt has reach the right torque the ring was in contact with the wheel...
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...I forgot...when I have to replace the tire, should I also replace the ring due to the conical deformation?


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TrainWreck618 said:
Trail Ready beadlocks do not have threaded inserts.
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Yup. I didn't see any on mine.

TrainWreck618 said:
I'm pretty sure Trail Ready recommends changing the ring when replacing the tires.
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Correct. This is in their instructions although, I didn't change mine out being that they're still so new. The worst I could see happening is them developing a leak and if that happens, I'll deal with it if and when I get there.
 
wayoflife said:
Yup. I didn't see any on mine.



Correct. This is in their instructions although, I didn't change mine out being that they're still so new. The worst I could see happening is them developing a leak and if that happens, I'll deal with it if and when I get there.
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Hope you don't have to sell a body part to afford TR rings like you do with the ATX rings! I priced the Machete rings when they came out - they were like $100 ea :eek:
Needless to say I still have my original rings. :cool:
 
Ddays said:
Hope you don't have to sell a body part to afford TR rings like you do with the ATX rings! I priced the Machete rings when they came out - they were like $100 ea :eek:
Needless to say I still have my original rings. :cool:
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Unfortunately, they're about the same price each. :rolleyes2:
 
Good writeup. The shop that installed mine certainly did it wrong and I sheered 6 bolts off my front two wheels because they were backing out. I took them all apart and did it on a bucket, tightening in a star pattern. Have not had an issue since. I do like to check their torque before any highway trips though for piece of mind.

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Great write up.

I know 20 lbs is hardly anything at all. But do you have concerns with them not coming with thread inserts? I'm worried about the longevity of the threads. I can't tell but are yours polished or raw? So wishing I ordered mine polished...
 
HighwayTrout said:
Great write up.

I know 20 lbs is hardly anything at all. But do you have concerns with them not coming with thread inserts? I'm worried about the longevity of the threads. I can't tell but are yours polished or raw? So wishing I ordered mine polished...
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Our wheels are polished with parts of it raw like the holes between the spokes. The concern of not having inserts is legitimate and it is because of this that tightening the bolts to proper torque spec is so necessary.
 
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