Tradeoffs of a Drag Link Flip Kit vs. Adjustable Track Bars

Tachyon

Tachyon

New member
I'm looking for a list of pros and cons of a drag link flip kit versus an adjustable track bar.

Background:

I recently installed an Evo Enforcer 3" lift and 37's on Method's with 3.5" backspacing. The rest of the jeep is a stock 2012 JKUR, with about 45K miles on the clock. It's been off-road a fair amount, but it is also my DD. I dropped it off for an alignment yesterday at our local shop and they called me to let me know all of the front end joints are shot except the swaybar links.

The shop is recommending the Currie Currectlync system and a Currie tie-bar so that I have all the same joints (Johnny Joints) in the front end. Then I can just carry one spare...I like that - but I'm concerned about noisy joints...are Johnny Joints Noisy? (Question 1)

I'm going to go forward with the Synergy ball joints, so my decisions are related to the track bar, drag link, and tie rod.

Choices:

My first choice would be to put on an Evo drag link flip kit that includes a forged drag link, then I would use a Currie tie-rod along with this kit. My concern is that it appears the flip kit would limit my front suspension travel - as it appears this ends up right below the frame? (Question 2) Does anyone have first-hand experience with this? (Question 3) This is cost-effective - and if it isn't a limiting decision, then I'll go forward.

My second choice would be to use the Currie Currectlync kit and an adjustable track bar... Is anyone running this? (Question 4) Is it worth the $1,100? (Question 5) What would make this better than the Evo/Currie option above? (Question 6)

Thanks in advance!:beer:

Jeep 1.jpgJeep 2.jpg
 
Tachyon said:
I'm looking for a list of pros and cons of a drag link flip kit versus an adjustable track bar.
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a drag link flip AND raised track bar bracket corrects the geometry of you steering and centers the axle under your Jeep. An adjustable track bar ONLY centers your axle under the Jeep. for a 3" lift, a flip kit with track bar bracket is all that you would need.

Tachyon said:
our local shop and they called me to let me know all of the front end joints are shot except the swaybar links.
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All joints? What joints are they talking about? If you are not having handling issues, and the joints are not 100% shot, I'd tell then to complete the alignment(you could have done this yourself at home see -> HERE )

Tachyon said:
The shop is recommending the Currie Currectlync system and a Currie tie-bar so that I have all the same joints (Johnny Joints) in the front end. Then I can just carry one spare...I like that - but I'm concerned about noisy joints...are Johnny Joints Noisy?
Click to expand...

They are giving you a great recommendation in the Currie system....but the most expensive one possible. No, JJ are not noisy but they do require a little bit of maintenance. Clevite bushings are the easiest/maintenance free joint you can buy for the Jeep and the best at noise cancelation BUT they will go bad with extreme articulation much faster than any other joint.

Tachyon said:
My first choice would be to put on an Evo drag link flip kit that includes a forged drag link,
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This is what I would do

Tachyon said:
then I would use a Currie tie-rod along with this kit.
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Why not find a stock replacement? They are cheap, and often given away free on the forums! If your not in a hurry to replace and yours is not completely shot.

Tachyon said:
My concern is that it appears the flip kit would limit my front suspension travel - as it appears this ends up right below the frame? (

Tachyon said:
This is cost-effective - and if it isn't a limiting decision, then I'll go forward.
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For this reason, it's why I would do it. best bang for your buck and is in no way "going cheap just to get by". Mel is running a stock track bar with raised bracket on his KOH rig.

Tachyon said:
My second choice would be to use the Currie Currectlync kit and an adjustable track bar... Is anyone running this? (Question 4) Is it worth the $1,100? (Question 5) What would make this better than the Evo/Currie option above? (Question 6)
Click to expand...

The tie rod is much more strong than stock and for that reason it will fair better against rocks/stumps/etc. if you hit it against something. Other than that, the other components are much stronger than stock...but the question is "do I need it"? For 95% of us, it is overkill and the flip kit is more than enough. In that scenario, no it is not worth $1100. It would be up to you to determine if you are in the last 5% :twocents:
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Tachyon said:
The shop is recommending the Currie Currectlync system and a Currie tie-bar so that I have all the same joints (Johnny Joints) in the front end. Then I can just carry one spare...I like that - but I'm concerned about noisy joints...are Johnny Joints Noisy? (Question 1)
Click to expand...

Ummm, the Currie tie-rod uses tie-rod ends (ball joints) and not Johnny Joints. They are not noisy.

I'm going to go forward with the Synergy ball joints, so my decisions are related to the track bar, drag link, and tie rod.
Click to expand...

If you want to save some money, you might want to consider a set of Crown HD ball joints. They are the exact same joint only in different colors and packing.

My first choice would be to put on an Evo drag link flip kit that includes a forged drag link, then I would use a Currie tie-rod along with this kit. My concern is that it appears the flip kit would limit my front suspension travel - as it appears this ends up right below the frame?
Click to expand...

So, are you saying that you're okay with ruining your coils by not running the proper bump stop extensions with your lift?

My second choice would be to use the Currie Currectlync kit and an adjustable track bar... Is anyone running this? (Question 4) Is it worth the $1,100? (Question 5) What would make this better than the Evo/Currie option above? (Question 6)
Click to expand...

As Chris pointed out, an adjustable track bar will only help you to recenter your axle. A draglink flip/front track bar relocation kit will recenter your axle AND correct your steering geometry.

I would however get the Currie tie-rod as it really is the strongest you can get.
 
I have the Enforcer, with EVO draglink flip kit and Currie tie rod. Can't say I've noticed any limitation described above. I guess the limited damage to my wallet is something. :idontknow:
 
I had a synergy track bar. Took it off because it was junk. I went with 3" evo coils, evo drag link flip and dynatrac ball joints. You have to run 3" bump stops, but there is no limits to my up travel, I had to trim metal and run flat fenders. Plus with the flip kit, your geometry is corrected
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm going to go with the Evo flip kit and the Currie tie rod and Synergy ball joints.

A bit more info, the alignment tips on this site are great, I did it before taking it in...the handling was still sketchy. The pre-alignment numbers were relatively close 3.5/4.0 caster, toe was close to being right in spec as well. But it still drove poorly. I can't wait to get all of this installed. I only wish I had a garage to do it all myself...I'm currently building a place, so I'm not very inclined to lay on my back in the snow and put all of this stuff on myself. The shop is reasonable for parts and labor, lucky for me. I'll have them weld on axle gussets while they are in there.

Thank you for taking the time to reply!
 
Well, I did a last minute decision and went with the entire Currie system. Plus Asher of EVO gussets and Synergy ball joints.

Should be done sometime next week...


Rick
 
curious to see what you think after its installed, I just don't understand the 1100 price for 2 parts.
 
hinrichs said:
curious to see what you think after its installed, I just don't understand the 1100 price for 2 parts.
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Well, after running other options, I'd have to say that I'm a big fan of the Currie tie-rod. It is hands down the beefiest tie-rod you can get and well worth the money in my opinion. Having said that, I have also run a variety of aftermarket track bars and drag links over the last 8 years and now run factory ones again. To this day, they still have proven to work well and cost me nothing to run. But hey, what do I know.
 
wayoflife said:
Well, after running other options, I'd have to say that I'm a big fan of the Currie tie-rod. It is hands down the beefiest tie-rod you can get and well worth the money in my opinion. Having said that, I have also run a variety of aftermarket track bars and drag links over the last 8 years and now run factory ones again. To this day, they still have proven to work well and cost me nothing to run. But hey, what do I know.
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It does look super strong that's for sure, I am happy with my oem tho after the flip and that evo usues oem parts as well.
 
Yeah, I don't get $1,100 for 2 parts either, but maybe I'll feel different when it's done. Again, impulse buy.

If I wanted "value" I'd drive an old Toyota corolla.

I just decided that this is how I want to build my Jeep. It's not right or wrong, it's just what I want... I do appreciate all of the info from you guys, and maybe someday I'll be able to join Wayalife at another pub and grub in Cali with my Jeep (instead of my rental car like the last time I went).

Next time you're in MN, look me up. Either that or hopefully I can do a JKX with you all at some point!

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1418186480.276310.jpg
 
Been driving it for a week or so now, and it still isn't great. It pulls left, and I'm bringing it back for an alignment tomorrow since I never got numbers for the alignment the first time around. As far as the kit goes, the stabilizer doesn't seem to be installed properly - but I haven't had much time to look it over to see what is wrong.

I believe that the parts are very high quality, it feels tight, I just want it to go straight..or close to straight, and I'd like it to stay centered in the lane with less effort.

The tie rod looks like it could take a hit from a RPG.

Here are some pics. Honestly, it doesn't look right to me? Thoughts?

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1419311336.407718.jpgImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1419311357.266516.jpg
 
Tachyon said:
Been driving it for a week or so now, and it still isn't great. It pulls left, and I'm bringing it back for an alignment tomorrow since I never got numbers for the alignment the first time around. As far as the kit goes, the stabilizer doesn't seem to be installed properly - but I haven't had much time to look it over to see what is wrong.

I believe that the parts are very high quality, it feels tight, I just want it to go straight..or close to straight, and I'd like it to stay centered in the lane with less effort.

The tie rod looks like it could take a hit from a RPG.

Here are some pics. Honestly, it doesn't look right to me? Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Take off the stabilizer and drive without it. If it doesn't pull its the stabilizer. This is common with aftermarket stabilizers as they tend to pull.
 
Tachyon said:
Been driving it for a week or so now, and it still isn't great. It pulls left, and I'm bringing it back for an alignment tomorrow since I never got numbers for the alignment the first time around. As far as the kit goes, the stabilizer doesn't seem to be installed properly - but I haven't had much time to look it over to see what is wrong.

I believe that the parts are very high quality, it feels tight, I just want it to go straight..or close to straight, and I'd like it to stay centered in the lane with less effort.

The tie rod looks like it could take a hit from a RPG.

Here are some pics. Honestly, it doesn't look right to me? Thoughts?

View attachment 115997View attachment 115998
Click to expand...

Why is your sway bar links at such an angle?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Tachyon said:
Been driving it for a week or so now, and it still isn't great. It pulls left, and I'm bringing it back for an alignment tomorrow since I never got numbers for the alignment the first time around. As far as the kit goes, the stabilizer doesn't seem to be installed properly - but I haven't had much time to look it over to see what is wrong.

I believe that the parts are very high quality, it feels tight, I just want it to go straight..or close to straight, and I'd like it to stay centered in the lane with less effort.

The tie rod looks like it could take a hit from a RPG.

Here are some pics. Honestly, it doesn't look right to me? Thoughts?

View attachment 115997View attachment 115998
Click to expand...


here is a pic of the stock setup. Stabilizer attaches to the bottom of the track bar bracket and then the back (axle side) of the tie rod
 
As mentioned, your pressurized steering stabilizer is what's causing your pull. Also, your sway bar links are installed on the wrong side of the axle mount.
 
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