The Maintaining and Building of Jan the WJ

Oh wow that sucks on the spring plates. I think your idea with the capped pipe would work well and be fairly easy to do.

Yeah, it certainly wasn't what I was expecting to find. I hope it'll work as well as I think it will lol.

Wow. That's nuts. I wonder why that rusted so bad? Water should run off it...or maybe it rusts from the inside out. Hope you can find a cheap way to replace.

It looks like the rubber lower coil isolators held in moisture and sediment that got in through the spring.

Sounds like goods excuse for a welder.

I'm certainly considering the welder; it's as good of an excuse as any. All I have access to right now is my brother-in-law's stick welder and I'm not practiced at it. I'm trying to find one that I won't be ultimately disappointed in down the road, but my bank account isn't bottomless either.
 
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I kinda cheat since they are local to me, but I have been very happy with my eastwood tig, and I have a few friends who run their Mig setup and are very happy with them. I want to say they are made by hobart, and rebranded but they are very nice and easy to use.
 
Got the rear done, making progress on the front.
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Looking at a Millermatic 141 or a Lincoln 140C to finish the job...
 
Very nice, good work. I can't wait to finally buy a house and a nice welder so I too can start fab work. Looks like a ton of fun, I'll be doing the same thing, my CAD skills will be useful in projects like this as well.

Thanks! I'm really liking it so far, we'll see how the welding goes :)

Yeah I took a drafting course with AutoCAD a while back, but I've forgotten more than I remember lol. I used Open Office Draw on Linux for this one; pretty handy for free!
 
Well, thanks to my new Millermatic I'm making more progress.
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I know it's not pretty, but it should get the job done.
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Considering I've never welded before, I don't think it turned out too bad :idontknow: I practiced a bit the day before on some of the scraps I cut off for the base, but welding around a round tube is a whole different ballgame.
 
Good work and congrats on the new welder. Miller is a great brand.

Thanks, I really like it so far. Really easy to set up and fun to use. The angle grinder with a cut-off wheel not so much, scares the shit out of me when it catches. Now I need a good torch or plasma cutter :rolleyes2: I'm going to be garage poor for a while.
 
Thanks, I really like it so far. Really easy to set up and fun to use. The angle grinder with a cut-off wheel not so much, scares the shit out of me when it catches. Now I need a good torch or plasma cutter :rolleyes2: I'm going to be garage poor for a while.

Part of the Jeep financial problem. The tools empty your wallet just as fast as the mods.
 
Getting close! Welded them on last night and put a coat of paint on.
Still not real pretty welds, but I think I'm improving. Once I turned off the auto-set wire feed and set it manually it got better. I know these perches are a lot more stout than the originals though :D
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I should be able to piece Jan back together soon! :wings:
 
Getting close! Welded them on last night and put a coat of paint on.
Still not real pretty welds, but I think I'm improving. Once I turned off the auto-set wire feed and set it manually it got better. I know these perches are a lot more stout than the originals though :D
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I should be able to piece Jan back together soon! :wings:

Looks good to me. Cool that you did it yourself.


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OK, everything when together great and thankfully the front end is doing well, but naturally there were more unexpected surprises. I went to turn the key and nothing happened. The battery was at 6 volts :doh: so it seems I still have a voltage leak. I got it charged back up after a few hours on the charger and she finally started up. It was driving fine until I had to make a hard turn, then there was a clunk and moan coming from the rear end. I turned both directions and it happens every time now. I crawled under cursing thinking I didn't tighten something, but I checked the torque on everything and all was well. Lugs, shocks, swaybar, all tight. The sway bar links are a little worn, but I don't think that would cause this noise. The upper control a-arm has a lot of movement at the ball joint where it attaches to the pumpkin, so I think that's where I'm going to start. I doubt that that is the only issue though since this just started after the new shocks and springs. Unless the new ride height is just putting more strain on that already bad joint...

It never ends.
 
Any lift can affect that ball joint. Did you get a spacer with the lift that goes on top of the pumpkin? Don't think it's needed unless you go 4 inches or more, but can't remember. Also, I have heard a couple stories of the steel bolts breaking inside the aluminum pumpkin during removal, so use PB Blaster and be careful.

I would advise buying a Mopar one, don't settle for less. Here's a Crown one of mine after 900 miles, the press fitting failed, scary as shit coming down the mountain.

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New Mopar one:

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Another thing you can check is the rear upper arm bushings. If you put a video camera on a small tripod pointed at them, then get in your Jeep and start it, in either drive or reverse, if you keep your left foot on the brake and right foot on the gas to torque the engine.....if there is any movement/play in those bushings you can see it on the camera. They should be really tight. Another part I would highly recommend Mopar. There are horror stories of aftermarket bushings failing nearly immediately back there. My LR bushing is aftermarket, pressed into the OEM arm, and it failed like 2000 miles later, really sucks. I'll likely upgrade the entire arm from Mopar at some point (bushings already installed) but it's like 500-700 bucks.

Good luck with it all.
 
Any lift can affect that ball joint. Did you get a spacer with the lift that goes on top of the pumpkin? Don't think it's needed unless you go 4 inches or more, but can't remember. Also, I have heard a couple stories of the steel bolts breaking inside the aluminum pumpkin during removal, so use PB Blaster and be careful.

I would advise buying a Mopar one, don't settle for less. Here's a Crown one of mine after 900 miles, the press fitting failed, scary as shit coming down the mountain.

New Mopar one:

Another thing you can check is the rear upper arm bushings. If you put a video camera on a small tripod pointed at them, then get in your Jeep and start it, in either drive or reverse, if you keep your left foot on the brake and right foot on the gas to torque the engine.....if there is any movement/play in those bushings you can see it on the camera. They should be really tight. Another part I would highly recommend Mopar. There are horror stories of aftermarket bushings failing nearly immediately back there. My LR bushing is aftermarket, pressed into the OEM arm, and it failed like 2000 miles later, really sucks. I'll likely upgrade the entire arm from Mopar at some point (bushings already installed) but it's like 500-700 bucks.

Good luck with it all.

Thanks, all great info! I'll look into the spacer and see if it's necessary, I bought all the parts separate so I don't have one. I already ordered Omix-Ada bushings and ball joint (already pressed in). I didn't see a Mopar one, but I didn't look all that hard either.
 
Thanks, all great info! I'll look into the spacer and see if it's necessary, I bought all the parts separate so I don't have one. I already ordered Omix-Ada bushings and ball joint (already pressed in). I didn't see a Mopar one, but I didn't look all that hard either.

I hope it all works out for you. So did you buy an arm with the bushings already in it you're saying?

Here's a Mopar one I just found online $$$$$$$$$$$$

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I hope it all works out for you. So did you buy an arm with the bushings already in it you're saying?

Here's a Mopar one I just found online $$$$$$$$$$$$

Yeah, that's a bit more than the $60 I spent :crazyeyes: The bushings I'll have to press in, but the ball joint is in the bracket already. I guess I'll still have to press it into the a-arm though.
Like this:
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I've got a little shop press that should work though.
 
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