The Build of NABOO the Starfighter JK

AZ Explorer said:
Should be a breeze compared to the other projects you've had lately. :crazyeyes:
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Hopefully. Need to go pick up a few things to get the job done. I don't just have a 36mm socket laying around. Haha

Told the girl plan for 4 hours. Hopefully I get done fast and can put the cage in too without her noticing. Haha


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M_Savage said:
Hopefully. Need to go pick up a few things to get the job done. I don't just have a 36mm socket laying around. Haha

Told the girl plan for 4 hours. Hopefully I get done fast and can put the cage in too without her noticing. Haha


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I have that socket in my bag of goodies in the "shop".
20150812_154914.jpg
Changed the last one when on a road trip in Colorado

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seansheds said:
How do you know when they need to be replaced?
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i was hoping someone else would chime in on this. but i dont know for sure they need to be replaced without a specific tool. i know all my suspension parts are tight because i just re-torqued them the day before i got death wobble. so now im going though and getting other things which could be a cause.

as you know from the group chat on how to check unit bearings i will put it here just so other readers can see. jack up the jeeps front end and put your hands at the 12 and 6 position and wiggle the tire in a push and pull motion. if there is any unwanted play then most likely thy are bad. also if there is any grinding sounds that is not a good sign.

i have also gotten 2 new rod ends for my currie tie rod as these seem to have a lot of movement that i think is outside of normal.

worse case i replace these and still have death wobble. but the good news is i would be able to count these parts out from being the case since they are all new.
 
BaddestCross said:
People keep saying red, but I don't remember you having any red. Of course, I've got a shitty memory! 😂

I'd probably go with a black dash bar and do the rest yellow to match the factory bars.

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sorry i missed this earlier. and i don't really have a lot of red on my jeep. just the grill and 1 Dynatrac sticker.

dash bar will be black for sure! however i keep going back between yellow and red. so maybe i will do the driver side red and passenger yellow.
 
M_Savage said:
sorry i missed this earlier. and i don't really have a lot of red on my jeep. just the grill and 1 Dynatrac sticker.

dash bar will be black for sure! however i keep going back between yellow and red. so maybe i will do the driver side red and passenger yellow.
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Do the bars running front to back yellow and the bars going from side to side red... or vise versa.

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So I may have found the reason for death wobble. Track bar bolt frame side seems loose. Which is odd because I just re-torqued the front end this last week and the next day it wobbled on me. I'll pull it tomorrow and see if the track bar or bracket is oval.

IMG_8858.jpg

Also haven't been able to do the unit bearings yet. But if this is the reason for my death wobble then I'm afraid I just wasted money on unit bearings and tie rod ends.


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WJCO said:
Good luck with the DW. FYI, when you pull the bolt look at the threads. I just posted this a couple weeks ago: https://wayalife.com/showthread.php...n-Do-to-Fix-it?p=907059&viewfull=1#post907059

When I installed my ProRock, I was a dumbass and overtorqued the bolt and stretched the threads. A new bolt with the proper torque fixed it and it is so nice to drive now. 2nd best thing I've felt in awhile. Good luck.
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Good to know! Where did you get the new nut and bolt? Want to be prepared if this is the case.


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M_Savage said:
Good to know! Where did you get the new nut and bolt? Want to be prepared if this is the case.


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This is on a jk axle on my WJ, so it's a 12mm bolt. I'm pretty sure the jk one on yours will be a 14mm. I just got a grade 10 bolt at Ace hardware and with the proper torque, it worked fine. Like you stated already, definitely make sure holes are still round as well.
 
WJCO said:
This is on a jk axle on my WJ, so it's a 12mm bolt. I'm pretty sure the jk one on yours will be a 14mm. I just got a grade 10 bolt at Ace hardware and with the proper torque, it worked fine. Like you stated already, definitely make sure holes are still round as well.
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So the bolt is fine the track bar bushing seems to be shot. If it's the original one from the jeep then it has 96k miles on it. so due for a replacement.


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WJCO said:
This is on a jk axle on my WJ, so it's a 12mm bolt. I'm pretty sure the jk one on yours will be a 14mm. I just got a grade 10 bolt at Ace hardware and with the proper torque, it worked fine. Like you stated already, definitely make sure holes are still round as well.
Click to expand...

So the bolt is fine the track bar bushing seems to be shot. If it's the original one from the jeep then it has 96k miles on it. so due for a replacement.


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M_Savage said:
So the bolt is fine the track bar bushing seems to be shot. If it's the original one from the jeep then it has 96k miles on it. so due for a replacement.


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The bushing on the 11 and older is solid. It's bonded rubber on the newer ones. The newer ones can go bad, the older ones wouldn't go bad, maybe just oval out. If it's a factory the bushing can't be shot.


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