I think I get what you are saying in the way of travel. Yes, I get that shock travel does not equal wheel travel, but how can I figure out what the travel will be? Are you saying that it could be less than 12 inches? Could it be more? What other factors should I look at?
What I'm saying is that it could definitely be less but not likely more. EVO is able to get more due to their proprietary front DTD mounts that angle back and rear EVO lever which actually utilizes only 8" coil overs to achieve 14" of true vertical travel. I should note that they still do this with 4-links too.
In regards to the DTD, I am not entirely sure I understand. Let me ask this: Which kits would you recommend to replicate what the RK kit does (or even better for that matter)?
I guess I first need to know what you think the RK kit does before I could recommend something that can replicate it. As far as better goes, there's nothing out there that'll perform better than an EVO DTD but of course, it comes at a price.
I have a budget in mind of $15,000. However, I could look at $20,000 if I could justify a significant cost savings and overcome the law of diminishing returns. I just cannot afford more than $20k, I want to stay married. ;-) How much does it cost to get to the rigs I see on your videos? (Not EVO1 of course).
LOL!! I think you need to understand that EVO 1 is running off the shelf DTD components and Moby is running the same thing. What makes EVO 1 different is all the frame/cage, engine, transmission, transfer case, placement of everything, lack of a computer and the significant trimming of weight it has. That being said, there are ways you can ramp up to what Moby has which is a street legal and street comfortable ride. Again, you can build your way to this point without having to buy things twice. You just need to know what your end game will be and work from there.
Which control arm did you break? Did breaking one arm cause more damage to the other components on that day?
Actually, I did't break an arm so much as I broke a factory control arm mount on my factory rear axle twice and once up front as well. I just pulled the arm and kept on going.
As for the long arm vs short arm discussion, are you saying that the short arm will absorb the same as a long arm?
First off, factory length arms are NOT short. TJ arms were short and by comparison, JK factory arms are quite long and quite strong. Second, they don't so much as "absorb" anything but an arm that has a flatter angle will have less of an arc to travel. Long arms will restore the geometry of your control arms back to stock or closer to it ONLY IF you are running a tall lift. Ideally, you want a LOW stance as that will reduce your center of gravity and with 37's, you only really need about 3.5" of lift at most. At this height, you will totally be fine with stock length arms - trust me, I have done it and know plenty of people who still do it.
And finally, which shop would you recommend to do the work with the budget I have in mind?
Honestly, I don't know but I might recommend that you talk to MTG here on the forum as he uses a shop in Reno that has done him well.
Forgive my ignorance and please do not take my questions as argumentative. I really appreciate all of your help.
I also thank you all.
It's all good and I hope I can be of some help. All I can offer is what I know.