CREEPR
New member
I can only assume you live east of the rockies.
Kentucky. Please help me understand. I have always understood going slow and not gassing your way over obstacles is the easiest way to protect your axle's innards.
I can only assume you live east of the rockies.
Kentucky. Please help me understand. I have always understood going slow and not gassing your way over obstacles is the easiest way to protect your axle's innards.
Yup, what I thought. East of the the Rockies, you guys wheel in off road parks measured in the acres and with a handful of obstacles. West of the Rockies, we have trails measured in miles and are often one continuous obstacle and on different terrain. Of course, this is to say nothing about the wide open deserts that you can bomb across and measure in the hundreds of miles. What you guys have is fun and I'm not trying to knock any of it - things are just different out here.
That makes sense. I would love to make it out there with you guys one day. I would have to change my rig around to handle things that you guys have that we don't. Rocks around here have moss and dirt all on them and most of the time the hardest part is avoiding trees. Nothing like those badass videos you put out. I am 15 min from a off-road park that, like you say, is acres not miles. If I break something I can walk home if I had to.
It's crazy to think but most of the breaks I have seen have happened due to speed - that is to say, bombing across the desert. It's really hard not to do being that suspension systems are getting so good at offering a smoother ride at faster speeds and when you have long stretches to cover, it's hard not to want to cover it as fast as you feel comfortable to do. That being said, you are right that slowing down would most likely help prevent breaks but, going fast out here is what so many guys and gals are wanting to do being that it's so much fun to do. This is why coil overs are so big out here and why you'll rarely see me recommend them for people east of the rockies.
Hauling ass in desert was fun until I bent the front axle on my 2 door lol
Hauling ass in desert was fun until I bent the front axle on my 2 door ?de28 lol
What I'm saying is that it could definitely be less but not likely more. EVO is able to get more due to their proprietary front DTD mounts that angle back and rear EVO lever which actually utilizes only 8" coil overs to achieve 14" of true vertical travel. I should note that they still do this with 4-links too.
I guess I first need to know what you think the RK kit does before I could recommend something that can replicate it. As far as better goes, there's nothing out there that'll perform better than an EVO DTD but of course, it comes at a price.
That being said, there are ways you can ramp up to what Moby has which is a street legal and street comfortable ride. Again, you can build your way to this point without having to buy things twice. You just need to know what your end game will be and work from there.
First off, factory length arms are NOT short. TJ arms were short and by comparison, JK factory arms are quite long and quite strong. Second, they don't so much as "absorb" anything but an arm that has a flatter angle will have less of an arc to travel. Long arms will restore the geometry of your control arms back to stock or closer to it ONLY IF you are running a tall lift. Ideally, you want a LOW stance as that will reduce your center of gravity and with 37's, you only really need about 3.5" of lift at most. At this height, you will totally be fine with stock length arms - trust me, I have done it and know plenty of people who still do it.
It's all good and I hope I can be of some help. All I can offer is what I know.
So it is the repositioning of the EVO levers (shocks, right?) that allow for a more efficient shock travel, correct? I just am not seeing it in my mind because I have not been under very many Jeeps to truly understand. Are there reference links?
This was the link I was looking at when I chose the RK Long Arm Coil Over:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/coilovers/Part_1/
It is very detailed and frankly, I did not understand it all, but I did read this:
A coilover is a clever component designed to package the shock and springs as a single system.
The beauty of a coilover is that it allows us to design for a given frequency, and then easily tune to achieve a desired suspension height.
Coilovers use multiple springs stacked in series, which results in an initial (normally softer) combines wheel rate that transitions at some point in the suspension's travel to a final (normally firmer) main wheel rate. By manipulating tender and main spring rates, we can achieve a soft, compliant ride for the majority of our suspension's travel, and then a much firmer wheel rate in the last 20-40% of compression travel to soak up the big hits without bottoming.
My thoughts followed this and then going Long Arm based on several sources, but mostly wanting a smooth ride. Maybe I am wrong here, but I reference this link really quick now:
http://www.4wd.com/jeep-lift-kits/long-vs-short-arm.aspx
So if I wanted to obtain the Moby ride, what would I need on my 2016 Rubicon Unlimited 4 door now which I could build on later? What kits would you recommend? (I hope that question makes sense?)
Or maybe written a different way, I would not go from long arm to a short arm, but I might as well go to a long arm and this would allow for the lack of need to change later, right? I mean Moby has a long arm kit. Would it ride the same and handle the desert the same with a short arm (or even mid arm?)?
I am curious about this. So what you are saying is that the difference in the arms are not great between the stock and the long arm kits. What is the difference? Can this be quantified to discuss the arc difference as a percentage or something?
Currently, Moby is sitting on an EVO DTD set at 3.5" of lift, with high clearance EVO long arms and running 40's on a ProRock 60 front and full float ProRock 80 rear. Again, this is where it's at now. If you're only going to run 37's, I would recommend looking into a ProRock 44 front and Trail 60 rear, EVO DTD/EVO lever with coil overs only and if you have the budget for it, long arms too. If in the future you feel the need, you can add bypass shocks to complete the kit. IF you think you'll get up on 40's someday, I would look into a ProRock 60 front and a full float ProRock 80 rear. You will also need to get 1350 drive shafts with this.
What I would recommend is that tomorrow morning, you call this number 714-870-5515 and ask for Drew. Or, you can contact him by PM here drew@offroadevolution. Being that you're seriously considering this kit, he would be able to assist you far better than I could.
Rock Krawler all day long.
Couldn't agree more - Rock Krawler is where it's at! Get it and tell us how awesome it is :yup: