RS9000xl vs Evo Spec King 2.0 vs Evo Spec 2.5

OverlanderJK said:
This.

I’m a Rancho fanboy but the 9000’s just didn’t do it for me. I didn’t notice anything on different settings. The 7000’s were the ticket.
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I have the 9000’s on two different jeeps. While they seem fine, I agree that the dials don’t seem to do much of anything.
 
You’ll be surprised how bad the roads are around the City. It is a shame. And homeless are crazy here jumping out in front of the cars. Witnessed it myself a few times.
 
Thing about adjusters on any shock is, the only thing they'll allow you to do is restrict more flow. As in, cranking them up will just make them stiffer.
 
Bierpower said:
I guess I'm the only one who has had good luck with the adjusters on the 9000's.
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wayoflife said:
I've had good luck with them but once I find where I want them, that's where they stay.
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I have them on the rear of the JT and did several road tests with different settings and I noticed a difference between adjustment. I can't remember where the sweet spot was, but that's where I set them and haven't moved them since.
 
WJCO said:
I have them on the rear of the JT and did several road tests with different settings and I noticed a difference between adjustment. I can't remember where the sweet spot was, but that's where I set them and haven't moved them since.
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Its probably more the individuals ability to feel the Slight difference.. I’m sure they work as advertised. I bet if I drove a specific section of road/dirt then dialed it and drove it again.. I’d feel it. Maybe. Lol
 
wayoflife said:
Thing about adjusters on any shock is, the only thing they'll allow you to do is restrict more flow. As in, cranking them up will just make them stiffer.
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This is really the reason I went with the 9000. With the LT I figured the added weight would be too much for the 5 or 7k and I'm not quite ready for CO's yet. As of now I run a 9 up front and 3 rear and the feel pretty balanced.

I also see why most people not in my same situation would find the added cost pointless. Dialing in the ride you want is handy but if I remember right it's at almost double the price.
 
Bierpower said:
This is really the reason I went with the 9000. With the LT I figured the added weight would be too much for the 5 or 7k and I'm not quite ready for CO's yet. As of now I run a 9 up front and 3 rear and the feel pretty balanced.

I also see why most people not in my same situation would find the added cost pointless. Dialing in the ride you want is handy but if I remember right it's at almost double the price.
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It seems like the down-stroke force (not including the shock) depends on spring rate and the mass of the tires+proportion-of-axel, and up-stroke depends on the spring rate and the mass of the vehicle. So you should have shock settings for both directions.

When driving a washboard/rough road there is some ideal characteristic which results in the most time with tire in contact with the ground ("traction"), while also counter-acting against body sway/bounce ("comfort"). How can that be evaluated?

What feels good to the passenger ("comfort") may not be what is best for maintaining traction and control of the vehicle.

It seems like there should be some accelerometer/computer setup that one could attach to the wheels and chassis to see what the tires/chassis are doing.
 
bobfriesenhahn said:
It seems like the down-stroke force (not including the shock) depends on spring rate and the mass of the tires+proportion-of-axel, and up-stroke depends on the spring rate and the mass of the vehicle. So you should have shock settings for both directions.

When driving a washboard/rough road there is some ideal characteristic which results in the most time with tire in contact with the ground ("traction"), while also counter-acting against body sway/bounce ("comfort"). How can that be evaluated?

What feels good to the passenger ("comfort") may not be what is best for maintaining traction and control of the vehicle.

It seems like there should be some accelerometer/computer setup that one could attach to the wheels and chassis to see what the tires/chassis are doing.
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Another thing to break on the trail. Jeep couldn't even get wheel speed sensors right.
 
bobfriesenhahn said:
It seems like the down-stroke force (not including the shock) depends on spring rate and the mass of the tires+proportion-of-axel, and up-stroke depends on the spring rate and the mass of the vehicle. So you should have shock settings for both directions.

When driving a washboard/rough road there is some ideal characteristic which results in the most time with tire in contact with the ground ("traction"), while also counter-acting against body sway/bounce ("comfort"). How can that be evaluated?

What feels good to the passenger ("comfort") may not be what is best for maintaining traction and control of the vehicle.

It seems like there should be some accelerometer/computer setup that one could attach to the wheels and chassis to see what the tires/chassis are doing.
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It's called high speed and low speed compression damping along with rebound damping. I believe its available on the DTD setup. You're not going to find it on low and mid-level. shocks
 
A few things.
On the RS9000XL the knobs adjusts for compression AND rebound.
So that is pretty cool.

Also on the new RS7MT, the video below is a pretty solid review. The company, Shock Surplus, can be pretty brutal on less expensive shocks... the RS7MT impressed them.

 
Rancho said:
A few things.
On the RS9000XL the knobs adjusts for compression AND rebound.
So that is pretty cool.

Also on the new RS7MT, the video below is a pretty solid review. The company, Shock Surplus, can be pretty brutal on less expensive shocks... the RS7MT impressed them.

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I’m going to go for it… I’ll give some feedback on how they feel with the EVO springs… Thanks Matt!
 
Rancho said:
A few things.
On the RS9000XL the knobs adjusts for compression AND rebound.
So that is pretty cool.

Also on the new RS7MT, the video below is a pretty solid review. The company, Shock Surplus, can be pretty brutal on less expensive shocks... the RS7MT impressed them.

Click to expand...

I was wondering about that... so in essence they are "double" adjustable but with only one adjustment input. I assumed they were single adjustable and only did rebound but I can see how compression is a lot more important for off road than it is for the autox & road racing crowd.(y)
 
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