OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
Those two look exactly the same just different labels. Wonder if they are the same Jack.
RECOVERY GEAR : A Must Have Before Hitting the Trails
- Thread starter wayoflife
- Start date
I looked at the Jet one and if you zoom in on the label, it clearly says made in China whereas the Norco one says made in Japan. I have seen Norco's in person and they say Japan too.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
Too early for that zoom shit.
J-Frame
New member
I had to change a tire not too long ago and the factory scissor jack made it a slightly “interesting” event, even though we were on pavement for the tire change. Then I happened to see Eddie’s video on hi-lift vs. bottle jack and it got me to thinking.
I have an on-board air system (Viair 300P), tire patch equipment including deflators and spare valve core tools, jump-start power pack, first aid, a get home bag, and we always have food and water including water filtering capability with us. The Jeep is my daily driver, and we do our ”off-roading” on forest service roads in East Tennessee/Western North Carolina. No rock-crawling, no mud-bogging, no body-damaging things at all. 99% of the time off-road it is just my wife and I, no group rides, just solitude.
So in that situation, with a toy budget of around $300, would you recommend a solid bottle jack and axle bracket, or a kinetic recovery rope and couple of soft shackles first? I will end up with both, just not sure which would be the smarter investment this month.
J-Frame
I have an on-board air system (Viair 300P), tire patch equipment including deflators and spare valve core tools, jump-start power pack, first aid, a get home bag, and we always have food and water including water filtering capability with us. The Jeep is my daily driver, and we do our ”off-roading” on forest service roads in East Tennessee/Western North Carolina. No rock-crawling, no mud-bogging, no body-damaging things at all. 99% of the time off-road it is just my wife and I, no group rides, just solitude.
So in that situation, with a toy budget of around $300, would you recommend a solid bottle jack and axle bracket, or a kinetic recovery rope and couple of soft shackles first? I will end up with both, just not sure which would be the smarter investment this month.
J-Frame
WJCO
Meme King
Merged here to this thread.
Also see this thread:
Trail essentials- What tools to Carry Offroad
Alright everybody, as im new to the world of wheeling jeeps, i thought it would be cool to hear what you all take with you on trips as "must have" items, gear, tools. Whatever. Sorry if this is already posted, if it is i couldnt find it.
www.wayalife.com
I'm sure we have many other threads like these as well as it's a common question.
1tmjpr
Member
Thanks searched a little but, didn't do a good job obviously.Merged here to this thread.
Also see this thread:
Trail essentials- What tools to Carry Offroad
Alright everybody, as im new to the world of wheeling jeeps, i thought it would be cool to hear what you all take with you on trips as "must have" items, gear, tools. Whatever. Sorry if this is already posted, if it is i couldnt find it.
I'm sure we have many other threads like these as well as it's a common question.
If you have straps, you might benefit from having a couple soft shackles.
I see you have a snatch block and tree strap. Does that mean you have a winch? If so, a soft shackle and recovery ring (aluminum pulley) could be handy.
1tmjpr
Member
Just wanted to put this out there. I read where someone was killed during a recovery in the Kingman AZ area. The vehicle was a big Ford Super Duty. The recovery vehicle was using the trailer hitch to attach a 3" strap. Unfortunately, the hitch insert failed and the separated part of the hitch went thru the windshield of the stuck vehicle, killing the driver. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...s-after-getting-stuck-in-the-mud.98609/page-2
There's somethings we can learn from this. That hitch was a long drop hitch insert. Attaching the strap to the ball would put the insert bar in bending load, which you can equate to using a cheater bar to pry on one side of something. This would drastically increase the local loads on one side of the insert. The longer the drop on the hitch, the more mechanical leverage on the insert bar. Don't do this with a drop hitch.
If attaching to a hitch, use a straight insert and preferably a solid steel insert.
Nylon straps and especially those new "kinetic ropes" store a lot of energy and will act like a huge slingshot. That's the beauty of them and the hazard.
I know it's a hassle, but a simple safety line can be used to choke the snatch strap/kinetic rope a short distance from the attach point, then anchored to a different point on the recovery vehicle. The slack in the safety rope should be enough to allow full movement during the "snatch" ,but short enough to arrest any failed attach structure on the recovery vehicle before it can travel half the distance to the other vehicle. The same can be used on the stuck vehicle. The rope can be inexpensive poly rope. It won't see much load from a failed strap.
There's somethings we can learn from this. That hitch was a long drop hitch insert. Attaching the strap to the ball would put the insert bar in bending load, which you can equate to using a cheater bar to pry on one side of something. This would drastically increase the local loads on one side of the insert. The longer the drop on the hitch, the more mechanical leverage on the insert bar. Don't do this with a drop hitch.
If attaching to a hitch, use a straight insert and preferably a solid steel insert.
Nylon straps and especially those new "kinetic ropes" store a lot of energy and will act like a huge slingshot. That's the beauty of them and the hazard.
I know it's a hassle, but a simple safety line can be used to choke the snatch strap/kinetic rope a short distance from the attach point, then anchored to a different point on the recovery vehicle. The slack in the safety rope should be enough to allow full movement during the "snatch" ,but short enough to arrest any failed attach structure on the recovery vehicle before it can travel half the distance to the other vehicle. The same can be used on the stuck vehicle. The rope can be inexpensive poly rope. It won't see much load from a failed strap.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
This story has been beat to death here.
jimcoffey62
Member
Jeff is correct. Please don't connect two straps with a D ring. You don't want metal projectiles.
Buy a soft shackle. Or learn your boy scout or sailing knots and use a bit of rope (hopefully you know the breaking strength of all your gear).
*sigh* I appreciate you being a forum messiah and saving us from ourselves with your reply to whoever it was who posted back in who remembers when on a thread that was started over 10 years ago. I can't even remember if soft shackles were a thing back then but to satisfy your concerns, I have since edited what I posted so that it on longer triggers future internet experts. Thank you.
kevman65
Hooked
So, every SOP in the country for lifting heavy loads that use shackles (all shackles are clevis's, not all clevis's are shackles) to connect the straps are wrong?
I think not. Typically your shackle is NOT your weakest link, your straps are. If your shackles are not rated for as much or more than your straps then you are rigging incorrectly.
On a normal day in a power house or a refinery, we lift WAY more than your recovery gear is rated for. But then again, we buy certified gear that is rated for the job at hand, not the best price on the internet or the color that matches our off road rig.
If you put a shackle in between two straps, with one strap eye on the top bow and the other strap on the cross bolt opposite, you won't break the shackle, the strap will fail first.
I recommend using Crosby 3/4" shackles for your off road recovery. If you want to save on weight then by all means use soft shackles, but know they aren't the same thing.
I think not. Typically your shackle is NOT your weakest link, your straps are. If your shackles are not rated for as much or more than your straps then you are rigging incorrectly.
On a normal day in a power house or a refinery, we lift WAY more than your recovery gear is rated for. But then again, we buy certified gear that is rated for the job at hand, not the best price on the internet or the color that matches our off road rig.
If you put a shackle in between two straps, with one strap eye on the top bow and the other strap on the cross bolt opposite, you won't break the shackle, the strap will fail first.
I recommend using Crosby 3/4" shackles for your off road recovery. If you want to save on weight then by all means use soft shackles, but know they aren't the same thing.
jimcoffey62
Member
Life is too short to get torqued over the little things like forum posts.
I work in a refinery. I'm a licensed professional engineer. Rigging safety is a very big deal so yeah, I will make a comment to encourage a safer approach - especially since most folks reading this are NOT trained riggers.
If you are a trained rigger - then you know the limits of each single piece of your equipment.
The shackle is unlikely to break. But if something else breaks a shackle IN THE MIDDLE of the pull becomes a projectile.
- hence, the recommendation to use a soft shackle for connecting two straps.
FYI - my mom also has dementia. I very much appreciate the video you guys posted about taking time to take care of your mom.
I agree, life is too short to get all worked up over thread that was started back in 2012 and hadn't been posted on in over half a year and back then, only to have someone post up the same crap that had been going on around the internet like it was somehow new and people needed to know about. To be perfectly honest, I don't even know how anyone finds a crusty old thread like this and looking at our statistics, most don't but like I said, I've already edited my original post to "exclude" the connecting of straps so everyone should be safe now.
I really am sorry to hear about your mom.
onlyone
Active Member
He didn’t get triggered. He’s a rigger. Riggers don’t get triggered.
jimcoffey62
Member
I've noticed some folks getting torqued about "reviving an old thread."
Newbies (and old-bees) use Google which finds these old threads and often they are EXTREMELY valuable.
I've learned a huge amount about brake lock differentials from JK threads that are 10 years old. BLD was new back then and everyone was talking about it and experimenting with it.
Likewise I've learned a lot about lunch box lockers, posi-traction, LSD (the kind in your differential, not in your magic lemonaid), helical LSD vs clutch LSD ... from old threads.
If I see a post that seems incorrect, I might reply, especially if it is safety related ...
Newbies are going to find these old threads so I think it makes sense to post updates. Others may disagree.
YMMV
bobfriesenhahn
Hooked
The difference between recovery and lifting is that when lifting, any projectiles will be primarily up and down whereas they will be primarily horizontal during a recovery and also directed toward where people are most likely to be.