Pvanweelden's JKUR build

That's good info :thumb:

The frame rails are mostly hollow, you can run lines and wiring in them. I ran the wiring for my rear lights down the drivers side rail. If you're worried about the frame rail heating up you can put the adhesive back heat tape right on the rail itself too.



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I ran everything around the top of the frame rails, but in wireloom and attached every foot, but at the rear of the front tire wells is obviously a pretty hot spot due to the down pipes. What sucks is, if I didn't get an air leak there, I probably never would have noticed that the wireloom melted. At least the insulation on the wire still held up, until another 10 hour drive

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pvanweelden said:
I ran everything around the top of the frame rails, but in wireloom and attached every foot, but at the rear of the front tire wells is obviously a pretty hot spot due to the down pipes. What sucks is, if I didn't get an air leak there, I probably never would have noticed that the wireloom melted. At least the insulation on the wire still held up, until another 10 hour drive

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I wonder if they make wire loom that is heat resistant.... if not they should :D
 
^ thanks for that link Curt! :thumb: I may order some of that sometime.
I found this tape and covered the wires and wireloom and air hose with it. radiant is rated 2000.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029KC2U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would guess if you remove the front inner fender liners, the area probably wouldn't be a hot spot.
I had the air hose and wireloom tied to the top of the frame there, but pulled them out to take the picture above.
 
I had done all my wiring from underneath the jeep, I knew there was a factory wireloom that ran along the top of the frame rail where I was running my air hose and rock lights, but I had never seen it from the topside until yesterday when I pulled the inner fender out.

The factory wireloom has heat tape over it for 8 inches where my wireloom melted.
So for anyone running any wires at this location, Please use heat tape along with the wireloom.
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I also trimmed up my inner liner a little bit higher than the frame rail to allow some better air flow.

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I just happened to stumble across this build. Very nice work!. It definitely gives me a few build ideas when I buy another JK.


....BTW the previous owner did not install the junk clamps on the radiator hoses. That must have been the owner before last, but I do recall the previous owner dragging the oil pan on a couple rocks (probably in the parking lot) at SMORR a while back. :stick hiting:


Keep up the good work!
 
Well, holy crap :) welcome to wayalife Mr Morg! Previous owner of my jkur, badass fabricator, and jeep fanatic! How was your CO trip? Shame we were a few weeks off on our trips, next year we should head out together :thumbup:
Ps- I still need some help with the rear corners- need to get back busy on building stuff, garage is full of stuff waiting - family life has been too busy lately :)

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Did a little cutting tonight...
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Got all the pieces cut I need... now time for some welding... might be a week or two :(
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Gonna be a few weeks because I will be wheeling instead of working on the jeep on the weekends :) next 3 weekends are full with runs, hopefully with the kids schedules of sports activities I get to make 2 of the 3 :)
And here's the metal I need for front shock relocation brackets- $15
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I will fab those up after the lift is installed to get the shock angles correct.
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Lol, definitely not a Tera flex design, but I made it more my own than the original. Rotopax will be involved, of course. :)

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pvanweelden said:
Lol, definitely not a Tera flex design, but I made it more my own than the original. Rotopax will be involved, of course. :)

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Hell it could be a terajunk design but being made by you would actually make it reliable

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Lol, damn guys, it is not terajunk, it is closest to aev - considering it hinges off the right side rear frame.

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^ following in your footsteps Wes- tie rod will be 1.5" dom .25" wall with Chevy tre's- for $135. Thicker than the synergy at 1.375" but not quite as thick as the currie at 1.625" but wow, what a price difference :(
Replacements tie rod ends are $35 each
I will be doing the evo drag link flip after my lift and keeping the stock track bar.

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Went to a buddy's garage last night to get some welding done. Made some good progress, it took a little bit of time finding the right angle of the main arm compared to curve of the rear of the jk and where to mount the tie rod so that it opens smoothly with the tailgate. Still need to adjust the height and shim the mounting bracket to level it out, and add rotopax mounts. Tire mount is adjustable depth, but not shown in pic.
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