P0303….At the end of my patience and wallet

OverlanderJK said:
Yeah stick with the plug connector before anything else. This happened when you broke that connector. Logic says start there.
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Clip isn’t in stock anywhere. Going to throw a new spark plug in today and see if that helps. If so great. If not then I’ll change the clip and also flip coil packs to rule out a faulty one. After that I’m waiting the white flag and moving on.
 
bubbad323 said:
Clip isn’t in stock anywhere. Going to throw a new spark plug in today and see if that helps. If so great. If not then I’ll change the clip and also flip coil packs to rule out a faulty one. After that I’m waiting the white flag and moving on.
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Can you fit a zip tie over it? That would keep it tight and let you know if that’s the issue.
 
OverlanderJK said:
Can you fit a zip tie over it? That would keep it tight and let you know if that’s the issue.
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Just put a new spark plug in and still getting a misfire at idle. The clip actually seats well without the locking piece. I put some electrical tape on it for now and it’s on there good. Going to swap coil
Packs in a little and see if that has any change. If not then I’ll actually change the clip to rule out the connection. After that I’m at a loss. Have a real love/hate relationship with these jeeps.
 
I understand completely, my friend. I bought mine recently and it's cost me over $4500 in updates and repairs already. Been in the shop for 3 of the 4 weeks I owned it.
Once it's fixed the love will return.
 
SpikesHD said:
I understand completely, my friend. I bought mine recently and it's cost me over $4500 in updates and repairs already. Been in the shop for 3 of the 4 weeks I owned it.
Once it's fixed the love will return.
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Damn. Many more carefree miles to you. Swapped the #3 and #1 coils. Same result do those are ruled out. Whats left. Fuel injector? Doubt it since no sluggishness and engine runs fine. No hint of hesitation or power loss. Electrical? Maybe. More serious issues that would come up with a compression test etc? She has 130 on her so maybe it’s time. Sigh
 
bubbad323 said:
Damn. Many more carefree miles to you. Swapped the #3 and #1 coils. Same result do those are ruled out. Whats left. Fuel injector? Doubt it since no sluggishness and engine runs fine. No hint of hesitation or power loss. Electrical? Maybe. More serious issues that would come up with a compression test etc? She has 130 on her so maybe it’s time. Sigh
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When I had low compression my light would come in and off. Can’t remember the code though. Think it was $2400 at the dealer for new head and labor.
 
bubbad323 said:
Damn. Many more carefree miles to you. Swapped the #3 and #1 coils. Same result do those are ruled out. Whats left. Fuel injector? Doubt it since no sluggishness and engine runs fine. No hint of hesitation or power loss. Electrical? Maybe. More serious issues that would come up with a compression test etc? She has 130 on her so maybe it’s time. Sigh
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Leak down test (usually best) and compression test are different things. By buying a compression tester, you can do your own compression tests. To do the compression test, you remove all the plugs, and attach the compression tester to each spark plug location, cranking the engine for each one location. Look for variations, and abnormally low pressure in a cylinder. If low pressure is discovered, add a squirt of oil to the cylinder (enough to get on the rings) to see if this creates a much better pressure after a few cranks. If this substantially boosts the pressure then the cylinder/rings have a problem, otherwise there is likely a head/valve issue.

If the cam shaft lobes are worn so the valves do not fully open, this is likely not detectable by a leak down or compression test.
 
bubbad323 said:
Clip isn’t in stock anywhere. Going to throw a new spark plug in today and see if that helps. If so great. If not then I’ll change the clip and also flip coil packs to rule out a faulty one. After that I’m waiting the white flag and moving on.
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Is this the clip you’re looking for? I used this kit to replace broken coil connectors on my 2012

 
OverlanderJK said:
When I had low compression my light would come in and off. Can’t remember the code though. Think it was $2400 at the dealer for new head and labor.
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Thanks. I can’t swing that repair cost. I already threw a lot of money into this thing. Just hasn’t felt like there is ending to it. Also have a rear main seal leak and that’s also costly.
 
GP NOIR said:
Is this the clip you’re looking for? I used this kit to replace broken coil connectors on my 2012

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Looks doffermt than the OEM ones but I’ll have to take a closer look. I don’t think the clip is the issue but gonna change to rule out regardless. Of course it’s on cylinder 3 which is the hardest to work on due to the metal plate and no room. SMH.
 
bubbad323 said:
Looks doffermt than the OEM ones but I’ll have to take a closer look. I don’t think the clip is the issue but gonna change to rule out regardless. Of course it’s on cylinder 3 which is the hardest to work on due to the metal plate and no room. SMH.
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Although it looks different, it worked. They have a different lock mechanism than OEM. It’s also possible I misunderstood which connector you need.
 
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