Mybadjk build

So experienced death wobble for the first time. Made a turn and was getting up to speed and hit a pot hole. Doesn’t help having bad ball joints, and bad upper control bushings. Axle side track bar bolt was loose as well.

I’ve had the replacement synergy’s for over a week. Just been working and too cold to install them. Replacement axle upper control arm bushings will be here tomorrow.


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When it rains it pours I guess. Bummer
 
Well went through and re-torqued suspension. All the bolts on my discos were loose as well. Did my ball joints. Jeep feels a lot better. Just have to do upper control arm bushings.


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Well went through and re-torqued suspension. All the bolts on my discos were loose as well. Did my ball joints. Jeep feels a lot better. Just have to do upper control arm bushings.


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Upper control arm bushings can be a bitch to change since they are pressed into axle side. How did you figure they are bad? I am having a slight intermittent shimmy I am trying to pinpoint, very annoying.

Edit: unless the bushings on the frame side are bad.


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Upper control arm bushings can be a bitch to change since they are pressed into axle side. How did you figure they are bad? I am having a slight intermittent shimmy I am trying to pinpoint, very annoying.

Edit: unless the bushings on the frame side are bad.


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I think they make Johnny joints you can press in there. I’m assuming with a ball joint press?


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Upper control arm bushings can be a bitch to change since they are pressed into axle side. How did you figure they are bad?

It's almost impossible to tell if they're bad visually unless you pull the arm off. Most of them won't wear out until around 100k+ miles. One thing I found works, if you set up a camera on a tripod and record the bushings while you get in the jeep and power brake it. It will be obvious is one has failed.
 
VeruGE*144 said:
Upper control arm bushings can be a bitch to change since they are pressed into axle side.

Oh yeah, total bitch even with an air hammer. :rolleyes2:

It's almost impossible to tell if they're bad visually unless you pull the arm off. Most of them won't wear out until around 100k+ miles. One thing I found works, if you set up a camera on a tripod and record the bushings while you get in the jeep and power brake it. It will be obvious is one has failed.

I tend to agree. Unless you're running EVO DTD and get really big flex, the clevite bushings on the front axle should last a long time. In the case of EVO DTD's, you can totally see when they are blown - ask me how I know. :crazyeyes:

JKBrick said:
I think they make Johnny joints you can press in there. I’m assuming with a ball joint press?

I've run them in the past and while I am a big fan of Johnny Joints, I can tell you that clevite bushings will do a much better job here especially with big flex. There's just a lot more pushing and pulling that goes on with these mounts and more so than there is rotation and the bonded rubber will handle this better. Johnny Joints will just blow out.
 
It's almost impossible to tell if they're bad visually unless you pull the arm off. Most of them won't wear out until around 100k+ miles. One thing I found works, if you set up a camera on a tripod and record the bushings while you get in the jeep and power brake it. It will be obvious is one has failed.

Great idea, I actually have a GoPro with bunch of mounts. I can mount it up down there and go for a spin


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Well attempted to do the uca bushings. Ball joint kit I had wouldn’t work. Also would have to remove the passenger spring. So putting it off. Did get my stabilizer back on and got a metal cloak mount from a buddy.


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Scraped the paint of the beadlocks rings.
Touched up the under carriage and axles up with paint.

Ordered the Russel arb line.
Going to order evo rockstars and 4” plush rides
Soon. Then a winch before rubicon trip in april.


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