More rear axle travel than bolt on coilovers.

[RESURECTIONJK]

Nice post! Not to be a nerd with math or anything, but I remember reading on here somewhere that the cantilever is set up with a ratio of 2:1. 8" coilover would have 16" of available travel, but limited with straps to 14" because of driveline bind?

That is correct. If you didn’t run limit straps you’d start really damaging a lot of shit. But hands down it is my favorite kit on the market. The team at EVO just gets shit right. A major PITA install though [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

 

[Fury22]

I too am considering going the Genright Elite suspension route. I have a couple friends that have installed the flat belly kit including the gas tank relocation. One is a 2dr JK and the other is a 4dr JK. The increase in break over clearance is substantial. In the 4dr it’s like running 40’s but with 37’s and the other benefit is the smooth transition over rocks. I ran Fordyce and Rubicon this last Summer and was constantly getting hung up on crossmembers and bashing my gas tank and this would eliminate that completely. Also, with the 7075 aluminum you get a very durable skid that is much lighter than steel. I thought they would gouge more being aluminum but the skid really doesn’t. Additionally, neither individual I know has had problems filling the tank as that was also a concern I had heard on this forum.



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The gas tank is not an issue, it’s just nitpicking to find cons with the genright system so they can prop up their EVO stuff...

 

[RESURECTIONJK]

The gas tank is not an issue, it’s just nitpicking to find cons with the genright system so they can prop up their EVO stuff...

Or maybe we like Evo cuz it works. Genrite works great too. No kit is perfect as I stated a few posts back. End goal is always the deciding factor. I have personally seen genrite tanks have issues filling like a stock tank would. Can you get it full? Yup. Can you just shove the nozzle in and pump away... meh. That’s another story. Could they have changed their design since I last dealt with it... yup totally. Then again.... we’re all just mall crawlers as Eddie has stated.

 

[wayoflife]

Additionally, neither individual I know has had problems filling the tank as that was also a concern I had heard on this forum.

The gas tank is not an issue, it’s just nitpicking to find cons with the genright system so they can prop up their EVO stuff...

LOL - As if I'd need to nitpick anything just to "find some cons with the genright system" and just so that I can prop up my EVO stuff. As if I could even make this shit up. Motech installs a lot of Genright kits and honestly, they're nice kits but the one complaint THEY have is that the gastank DO having issues filling up. But hey, if you're not having problems, that's awesome.

Hope you feel like a man now :thumb:

 

[wayoflife]

Or maybe we like Evo cuz it works. Genrite works great too. No kit is perfect as I stated a few posts back. End goal is always the deciding factor. I have personally seen genrite tanks have issues filling like a stock tank would. Can you get it full? Yup. Can you just shove the nozzle in and pump away... meh. That’s another story. Could they have changed their design since I last dealt with it... yup totally. Then again.... we’re all just mall crawlers as Eddie has stated.

Cracks me up that you can share HONEST information on things that you have personally SEEN and in the hope of being helpful but if you do, you’re just “nitpicking” cons just to prop up products you’re running on your Jeep. So fuckin stupid LOL


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[RESURECTIONJK]

Cracks me up that you can share HONEST information on things that you have personally SEEN and in the hope of being helpful but if you do, you’re just “nitpicking” cons just to prop up products you’re running on your Jeep. So fuckin stupid LOL


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It’s honestly a big reason I just keep my mouth shut most times. If I’m wrong about something I’ll own it. But I NEVER offer advice or my opinion in something unless I have experienced it first hand. And you’ve been doing this long enough now and attended soooo many events where rigs of all levels get tested that if you offer advice or an opinion, I’d pretty much consider it to be expert level. But then again these people thing you’re just a mall crawler who gets free shit LOLZ!

 

[Gecko13]

I’m here in Colorado and we seem to have a bunch of trails that are off camber or that pitch you to one side or the other. Is the dtd stable in these conditions? How’s the body roll?

 

[wayoflife]

I’m here in Colorado and we seem to have a bunch of trails that are off camber or that pitch you to one side or the other. Is the dtd stable in these conditions? How’s the body roll?

LOL - I hope you don't take this the wrong way but... trails like that exist in most states west of the Rockies. Trust me, I've wheeled most if not all of them.

With that said, what offers stability is a sway bar. As you can see in the pic that I posted, I purposefully KEEP my factory rear sway bar (this as opposed to a Antirock which offers too much resistance) as it does a great job of providing stability but without preventing maximum flex. Again, notice the limiting strap is taught and if they weren't there, I would have big time driveline bind.

 

[Irish JK]

Yes that is true that you need the fuel cell for the triangulated rear but it’s gotta help with break over angle too right? I’m not looking to do the 4 link setup yet, just wanting to run the outboard system with the evo long arm for now if possible?

I don’t seem to remember the gas tank hanging me up, but I don’t wheel much anymore. I’d rather get some popcorn at the gas station than fight with the pump. Then again, I don’t drive fast enough to need a grenright kit.


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[jeffj]

I have wheeled I lot with two totally built genright rigs. I can say they are totally bad ass in all situations that we have been in. I really like my EVO built Jeep but it is hard to deny the quality and attention to detail on the genright. I have never seen any issues with either of them getting gas.


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[Gecko13]

LOL - I hope you don't take this the wrong way but... trails like that exist in most states west of the Rockies. Trust me, I've wheeled most if not all of them.

With that said, what offers stability is a sway bar. As you can see in the pic that I posted, I purposefully KEEP my factory rear sway bar (this as opposed to a Antirock which offers too much resistance) as it does a great job of providing stability but without preventing maximum flex. Again, notice the limiting strap is taught and if they weren't there, I would have big time driveline bind.

No offense taken. Can the cantilever run without bypass shocks without compromising stability? I don’t do any high speed driving so I wouldn’t need them unless they provide more stability in the rocks

 

[Gecko13]

I have wheeled I lot with two totally built genright rigs. I can say they are totally bad ass in all situations that we have been in. I really like my EVO built Jeep but it is hard to deny the quality and attention to detail on the genright. I have never seen any issues with either of them getting gas.


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Nice! My problem is that my rig would be a Hodgepodge so I don’t know if it will work as well. I would still have the evo long arm but the genright towers and tank. Then later possibly go to the 4 link rear.

 

[jeffj]

Nice! My problem is that my rig would be a Hodgepodge so I don’t know if it will work as well. I would still have the evo long arm but the genright towers and tank. Then later possibly go to the 4 link rear.

Yes,I totally understand, integration is a part of that system. It would be hard to mix and match.


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[wayoflife]

No offense taken. Can the cantilever run without bypass shocks without compromising stability? I don’t do any high speed driving so I wouldn’t need them unless they provide more stability in the rocks

LOL - cool. So, here's another question that I hope you don't take the wrong way, are you new to off roading or maybe have your Jeep set up really tall? I ask only because, you seem to be really fixated on stability like whatever you have now is really unfamiliar or scary to you. And really, that's cool and I'm not trying to belittle you about it, I'm just asking so that I get a better understanding of what it is you may really need.

With that said, I ran the JKX Colorado trip in our JK running single coilovers only front and rear. We ran most of the big trails including Carnage Canyon. I can't say that stability or lack thereof was ever an issue or concern of mine. But then, I have my rigs setup with a low and wide stance and I've done this Jeep thing once or twice.

 

[RESURECTIONJK]

No offense taken. Can the cantilever run without bypass shocks without compromising stability? I don’t do any high speed driving so I wouldn’t need them unless they provide more stability in the rocks

I guess you could run the system without the bypass but I don’t see why you would. You’re spending the money to get them in the kit so leaving them off wouldn’t make any sense. That being said its a very stable setup with or without them. You’re still running a sway bar and you’re not compromising anything in terms of strength so stability isn’t an issue. Most people confuse coilovers with ORI’s (not saying that’s you) in which case ORI’s in my experience would be less than ideal for a daily driver. Coilovers are nothing more than a really good shock tuned with the proper springs. The bypass shocks will allow you to control different areas of the suspension travel so you can control how much the body rolls on the rocks especially when you’re off camber. IMO if you’re spending money on the cantilever system and not running the bypass shocks it would be like running air lockers but no compressor. You’d severely handicap the way the system was designed AND you’d only get 30% of the benefits that system provides.

 

[Gecko13]

I guess you could run the system without the bypass but I don’t see why you would. You’re spending the money to get them in the kit so leaving them off wouldn’t make any sense. That being said its a very stable setup with or without them. You’re still running a sway bar and you’re not compromising anything in terms of strength so stability isn’t an issue. Most people confuse coilovers with ORI’s (not saying that’s you) in which case ORI’s in my experience would be less than ideal for a daily driver. Coilovers are nothing more than a really good shock tuned with the proper springs. The bypass shocks will allow you to control different areas of the suspension travel so you can control how much the body rolls on the rocks especially when you’re off camber. IMO if you’re spending money on the cantilever system and not running the bypass shocks it would be like running air lockers but no compressor. You’d severely handicap the way the system was designed AND you’d only get 30% of the benefits that system provides.

Understood, I was thinking you could buy the lever with just coilovers. I didn’t realize the bypass shocks were included.

 

[Gecko13]

LOL - cool. So, here's another question that I hope you don't take the wrong way, are you new to off roading or maybe have your Jeep set up really tall? I ask only because, you seem to be really fixated on stability like whatever you have now is really unfamiliar or scary to you. And really, that's cool and I'm not trying to belittle you about it, I'm just asking so that I get a better understanding of what it is you may really need.

With that said, I ran the JKX Colorado trip in our JK running single coilovers only front and rear. We ran most of the big trails including Carnage Canyon. I can't say that stability or lack thereof was ever an issue or concern of mine. But then, I have my rigs setup with a low and wide stance and I've done this Jeep thing once or twice.

I’m fairly new yes. It’s sitting as low as possible with trying to keep 2-3” up travel. The Jeep seems pretty stable now and I don’t want that to change. Just not thrilled with the travel in the rear, it’s probably fine but I cant leave well enough alone lol

 

[wjtstudios]

This is why I truly love this forum, there are few places where you have guys that build, run, and then share their experiences with these setups

I’ve seen both in action, both are amazing. I will be moving towards a DTD late this year or early next year because of simpler design as compared to the Genright and the benefit of maintaining storage in the back of the jeep which is just as essential for me as I often have 4 passengers in the Jeep on the trail.

Like the guys said, I think it would be a mistake patching a system together. Commit or don’t. Either way, get the high clearance LAs on now because it will work with either.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler

 

[A.J.]

Genright is nice but they want a lot of $ for it. The piece work plan is even more $. If you really just have to have a triangulated 4 link I would look for a good fab shop that does them all the time. There are several. There are back half kits and four link crossmembers made by others as well for far less $. The flat bottom idea is very attractive on paper but harder to do in real life. You will need an Atlas t-case or try to move the trans all the way up into the tunnel. Some have used a body lift to accomplish this which is another whole ball of shit. All of which requires a fair amount of fabrication skill or you’re paying someone else to do it. I have pondered it myself. Dreaming of a triangulated 4 link rear/3 link front with ORI’s and all 7071 aluminum arms. No sway bars just super clean. All good on paper. It’s been done. There are people that know how to tune it properly. Holy fuck I’m never going to be able to afford that. I’d be better off to sell my Jeep and buy a buggy. Lol!

EVO DTD is pretty hard to beat. All the travel. Rear shocks up and out of harms way. You get to keep all your storage in back since there’s no shocks sticking up through the floor. Plus those bypass shocks not only perform but they look bad ass behind the front tires. I don’t know what to say other than it’s your $ spend it however you want. Either way your spending a lot and will need a fair amount of knowledge and help setting it all up right.

 

[RESURECTIONJK]

Genright is nice but they want a lot of $ for it. The piece work plan is even more $. If you really just have to have a triangulated 4 link I would look for a good fab shop that does them all the time. There are several. There are back half kits and four link crossmembers made by others as well for far less $. The flat bottom idea is very attractive on paper but harder to do in real life. You will need an Atlas t-case or try to move the trans all the way up into the tunnel. Some have used a body lift to accomplish this which is another whole ball of shit. All of which requires a fair amount of fabrication skill or you’re paying someone else to do it. I have pondered it myself. Dreaming of a triangulated 4 link rear/3 link front with ORI’s and all 7071 aluminum arms. No sway bars just super clean. All good on paper. It’s been done. There are people that know how to tune it properly. Holy fuck I’m never going to be able to afford that. I’d be better off to sell my Jeep and buy a buggy. Lol!

EVO DTD is pretty hard to beat. All the travel. Rear shocks up and out of harms way. You get to keep all your storage in back since there’s no shocks sticking up through the floor. Plus those bypass shocks not only perform but they look bad ass behind the front tires. I don’t know what to say other than it’s your $ spend it however you want. Either way your spending a lot and will need a fair amount of knowledge and help setting it all up right.

All of this ^^^^