So I’ve owned this Jeep for a bit and had it out a couple times now. It’s rides great on the road and seems pretty stable off road. It had the evo bolt ons front and rear. Front seems pretty good but the rear is lacking. Is there a system out there that will improve whee travel without compromising stability?
More rear axle travel than bolt on coilovers.
- Thread starter Gecko13
- Start date
wjtstudios
Hooked
The EVO DTD is the best option the rear with out getting into cutting into the frame and body like the genright setup does. Both are amazing. A slightly better option over the bolt on COs are accutune’s weld on mounts that do lean the COs back a bit more going to 12” COs verses the 10”s. They do talk about a 14” version, but I haven’t been able to get out of them what that entails so I stopped looking into it.
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
Thanks for the reply, I’m thinking about buying the genright towers and cross member for the rear. And possibly the fuel cell. The dtd is a neat option but I like the idea of moving the tank to the back and gaining some clearance on break over angle. Anyone here have the genright elite?
Neat kit but it's a LOT of money and a LOT of work to install. Also, have fun pumping gas at the gas station. That tank takes forever to fill up being that you have dribble in the gas in order to keep it from puking out. Also, breakover angles isn't why you'd want this kit, it's the fact that you can install a triangulated 4-link. But, even at that, I don't know if that would be enough to get me to do all the work that's needed just for that. Of course, this is just my opinion. Yes, I do run a DTD and have for over a decade but then, I'm just a mall crawler.
Fury22
Member
Yea I do. Bill has seen it too and can chime in with his expert opinion haha
Yes that is true that you need the fuel cell for the triangulated rear but it’s gotta help with break over angle too right? I’m not looking to do the 4 link setup yet, just wanting to run the outboard system with the evo long arm for now if possible?
Maybe I'm missing something but I don't recall my gastank hanging substantially lower than my frame rail and enough so that I want to get rid of it.
It’s mainly in preparation for the 4link later. I have to take bites at it because it’s too much all at once. It would probably give to a couple inches and that makes all the difference. Or so I’ve heard lol
LOL - that's what she said
RESURECTIONJK
Hooked
For what it’s worth I just got done helping a good friend of mine install this exact kit. He also ended up doing a 4 link I can tell you first hand... it’s an insane amount of work for very very little gain over a bolt on setup. The DTD is hands down a superior setup in terms of
“Work vs gain” ratio. Hell a properly setup shock and cool spring setup can give you a great deal of suspension travel. To each their own, and as mentioned above the real appeal for the GR setup especially moving the gas tank is to run a 4 link setup.
Too much damn work for the amount of performance you’ll get IMO. Especially having just gone through it.
“Work vs gain” ratio. Hell a properly setup shock and cool spring setup can give you a great deal of suspension travel. To each their own, and as mentioned above the real appeal for the GR setup especially moving the gas tank is to run a 4 link setup.
Too much damn work for the amount of performance you’ll get IMO. Especially having just gone through it.
Really? That’s surprising to me that you say there is not much gain from the evo bolt on that uses a 10” travel shock to the genright that uses a 14” travel shock? Was it fairly user-friendly/install friendly as far as figuring out where everything went?
I think he's comparing it to the DTD. It uses an 8" shock and yields 14" of vertical travel.
RESURECTIONJK
Hooked
Eddie is correct. I was referring to the DTD. I apologize for not stating that and by no means did I mean to refer to the DTD system as a bolt on kit. It most definitely is not.
Thing is, there's more to coilovers than just flex. Hell, they're not even the primary reason why I run coilovers. For me, it's about how fast I can go and to that end, I don't know of any kit that can offer the kind of rear end up travel that the DTD offers especially with the new upgrade we had gotten on Moby. This shot is what our rear axle looks like at a full bump. And, to be clear, that's a bigass ProRock 80 tucked way up there.
Red Knight15
Caught the Bug
But then, I suppose there's something to be said about flex.
And, please note the LIMITING STRAP is taught. This is an important note because while big flex is nice to have, there is a point where too much is too much.
Nice [emoji1303].
Sent from Lookout Mtn.
RESURECTIONJK
Hooked
Long post warning:
As Eddie just mentioned I was referring to the DTD system and by no means did I mean to confuse it with the bolt on kit. Sorry for not being clear... not nearly enough coffee this morning. That being said... there is nothing user friendly about the install. If you aren’t comfortable with cutting tools and very precise attention to detail then I’d move on to something else. Even the DTD is a very involved install. I didn’t do ANY of the fab work. I left that up to by buddy to sort out. That being said I did handle all the setup and that part, while time consuming was straight forward but setup usually is regardless of what kit you’re looking at. Here’s how I look at the 2 systems.
Both high quality.
Both very involved installs.
Both will be very close in terms of actual useable travel. The DTD kit uses a cantilever system so you’re able to get “more with less” in a way. I also feel like the DTD is a better do it all system. You can set it up for hard core crawling AND high speed shit without constantly screwing with things. The genrite system you pretty much have to choose a happy medium and deal with it unless you really want to fuck with things beyond what the kit is designed to do.
With the genrite kit you’re going to lose a fair amount of room in the back of a vehicle already tight in cargo space. If that’s important to you... look at the DTD.
DTD you’re pretty much married to a standard long arm setup as you can’t really move the tank unless you want to put a fuel cell in the cargo area (not ideal in a street rig IMO) then again, going from a standard long arm setup to a 4 link you’re not going to suddenly pickup a bunch more travel. You’ll see some sure... but the gains in travel vs the amount of work and expense is.... lopsided to say the least.
Again, this is all based on my opinion having helped instal both kits including quite a few EVO bolt on coilover kits. I’m at the stage personally that until I can figure out a way to run a 16” coilover in a JK without having to completely rebuild my engine compartment... I’m sticking with a coil and shock setup. Coilovers are amazing. They just do everything better. And for some, the bolt on kit is all they’ll ever need and for others the DTD or genrite system will fit all their needs and make them very happy. Personally, if I’m going to go through the trouble of hanging coilovers, and fucking with setup, I’m gonna run a rear DTD setup and something stupid in the front that would require waaaay more work than it would ever be worth for me.
Currently I am cycling a little over 13 inches of travel in the front and just under 13 in the rear with my current shock and spring setup. Once I make the jump to long arms I can fine tune things a bit more and MAYBE... pick up another little bit. But I’m very happy with what I currently have.
RESURECTIONJK
Hooked
But then, I suppose there's something to be said about flex.
And, please note the LIMITING STRAP is taught. This is an important note because while big flex is nice to have, there is a point where too much is too much.
Well said sir. I think most people just assume that coilovers mean more flex and that “flex” is the end all be all and it just isn’t the case. It’s a big reason why, as you mentioned the DTD is superior IMO. You can get a great deal of travel out that system AND have incredible performance going fast through the desert. I don’t know of a single kit out there for a Jeep that offers that kind of “flex”ability (see what I did there)
Oh and one more thing... Moby is just fucking awesome.
JJ151
Member
I too am considering going the Genright Elite suspension route. I have a couple friends that have installed the flat belly kit including the gas tank relocation. One is a 2dr JK and the other is a 4dr JK. The increase in break over clearance is substantial. In the 4dr it’s like running 40’s but with 37’s and the other benefit is the smooth transition over rocks. I ran Fordyce and Rubicon this last Summer and was constantly getting hung up on crossmembers and bashing my gas tank and this would eliminate that completely. Also, with the 7075 aluminum you get a very durable skid that is much lighter than steel. I thought they would gouge more being aluminum but the skid really doesn’t. Additionally, neither individual I know has had problems filling the tank as that was also a concern I had heard on this forum.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
KevinG
Caught the Bug
Nice post! Not to be a nerd with math or anything, but I remember reading on here somewhere that the cantilever is set up with a ratio of 2:1. 8" coilover would have 16" of available travel, but limited with straps to 14" because of driveline bind?