Misinformed member.... someone please help!

Jersey_Devil

Jersey_Devil

New member
OK so during late spring early summer last year I bought my first jeep a 2010 JKU Sahara with a 4" Rancho long arm suspension lift 37X12.50R18 BFG Mud Terrain KM2 Tires

ForumRunner_20130102_141031.jpg

Loved it! Had a ton of flex and the ride was awesome! I added HiLift hood mount lights, body armor winch bumper ( ordered winch)

ForumRunner_20130102_141104.jpg



ForumRunner_20130102_141134.jpg



ForumRunner_20130102_141204.jpg



ForumRunner_20130102_141233.jpg

rolled jeep on the way home from work

ForumRunner_20130102_141323.jpg

So I looked for a half modded jeep to save money and found my Rubi

ForumRunner_20130102_141402.jpg

I love this Jeep!

ForumRunner_20130102_141445.jpg



ForumRunner_20130102_141516.jpg



1632256632_4724235597144.jpg



1632256632_4724234837125.jpg



1632256632_4724237037180.jpg

OK so I've been under the impression from what I've been told in the past that the long arm suspension gives us more wheel travel so u can flex more.... Now after reading other threads I'm see the long arms have nothing to do with this..... I want to get my Rubi on 37s like my Sahara and get the flex of my Sahara.... I was gonna order ONLY THE EVO LONGARM CONTROL ARMS AND BRACKETS NOT THE HIGH CLEARANCE KIT. As I recently found out I can't run without coilovers..... So how can I get the flex in my rubi that I had in the Sahara? Should I just get the Evo Bolt on coilovers and standard adjustable control arms? Or should I get the long arms only? I'm not rich so doing it all will take some saving, I don't like just putting 4-6k on a credit card without the cash to back it up.... Intrest rates sucks nowadays. So if somebody could please help me figure out what I need to do and what is the CORRECT reason for long arms.... I'm not completely dumb here either I've done a lot of major mechanical work professionally over the years.... NEVER worked on jeeps tho. I'm used to big pick up trucks. I'm just trying to get the correct info so I can stop looking like a fool giving ppl bad advice or by making comments that are completely wrong. Thank you in advance for any help.
 
Jersey_Devil said:
OK so I've been under the impression from what I've been told in the past that the long arm suspension gives us more wheel travel so u can flex more.... Now after reading other threads I'm see the long arms have nothing to do with this..... I want to get my Rubi on 37s like my Sahara and get the flex of my Sahara.... I was gonna order ONLY THE EVO LONGARM CONTROL ARMS AND BRACKETS NOT THE HIGH CLEARANCE KIT. As I recently found out I can't run without coilovers..... So how can I get the flex in my rubi that I had in the Sahara? Should I just get the Evo Bolt on coilovers and standard adjustable control arms? Or should I get the long arms only?
Click to expand...

Do you already have a lift and that's why you are wanting long arms and brackets only? If so what do you have and what components will you be wanting to keep and what will you be getting rid of? That's to most crucial info needed to tell you how to go forward.
 
StrizzyChris said:
Do you already have a lift and that's why you are wanting long arms and brackets only? If so what do you have and what components will you be wanting to keep and what will you be getting rid of? That's to most crucial info needed to tell you how to go forward.
Click to expand...

Sorry, yes currently I have a 4" Skyjacker lift with rear track bar relocate bracket and front adjustable track bar, evo gussets Evo front control arm skids Evo No Limits Disco Evo Bolt on Rock Star skids Artec front axle truss, I believe that's everything undercarriage wise I'm still running factory control arms
 
Your limiting factor now is your shock length. More than likely, the lift kit you had ran taller coils and because of it, longer shocks as well. If you want really big flex, you really want to run coil overs more than long arms but, you will still need some adjustable arms to help dial in your ride.
 
wayoflife said:
Your limiting factor now is your shock length. More than likely, the lift kit you had ran taller coils and because of it, longer shocks as well. If you want really big flex, you really want to run coil overs more than long arms but, you will still need some adjustable arms to help dial in your ride.
Click to expand...

So I can swap out my factory control arms for adjustable standard length control arms and be able to run the bolt on coilovers? And one other thing.... Why is it that the 35s on my Rubi look closer to pinch seam than the 37s on my Sahara? Is that only cause of the long arm suspension I had on the Sahara?

Sahara
ForumRunner_20130102_163601.jpg


Rubicon
ForumRunner_20130102_163617.jpg

I really wanna get 37s on my Rubi
 
Last edited:
Jersey_Devil said:
So I can swap out my factory control arms for adjustable standard length control arms and be able to run the bolt on coilovers? And one other thing.... Why is it that the 35s on my Rubi look closer to pinch seam than the 37s on my Sahara? Is that only cause of the long arm suspension I had on the Sahara?

Sahara
<img src="http://wayalife.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=10898"/>

Rubicon
<img src="http://wayalife.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=10899"/>

I real wanna get 37s on my Rubi
Click to expand...

Your long arm corrected the geometry & kept the axle centered. Adjustable arms will help with this
 
wayoflife said:
Your limiting factor now is your shock length. More than likely, the lift kit you had ran taller coils and because of it, longer shocks as well. If you want really big flex, you really want to run coil overs more than long arms but, you will still need some adjustable arms to help dial in your ride.
Click to expand...

Also on evos Page it says front aftermarket driveshaft required and rear is recommended..... What kind of drive shafts do i need and why?

http://www.offroadevolution.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=EVO.Bolt.On.R
 
I ran 35's and then 37's for a total of 70,000 miles with a 3" TF lift & adjustable short control arms.
 
Jersey_Devil said:
So I can swap out my factory control arms for adjustable standard length control arms and be able to run the bolt on coilovers? And one other thing.... Why is it that the 35s on my Rubi look closer to pinch seam than the 37s on my Sahara? Is that only cause of the long arm suspension I had on the Sahara?

I really wanna get 37s on my Rubi
Click to expand...

Yes, you can definitely run adjustable short arms with the bolt on coil over kit.

Regarding your pics, your other kit properly recentered your rear axle. The kit you have on now have lower arms that are set too short.

Atch said:
Your long arm corrected the geometry & kept the axle centered. Adjustable arms will help with this
Click to expand...

Jersey_Devil said:
So if adjustable control arms correct this..... What is the point of even putting long arms in?
Click to expand...

Regardless of short arm or long arm, you need to adjust the lower arms to reposition your axle under the fenders. Up front, the upper arms are used to set caster and in the rear, the upper arms are used to set your pinion. Long arms are ONLY used to correct your suspension geometry - make the arms sit flatter like stock.

Jersey_Devil said:
Also on evos Page it says front aftermarket driveshaft required and rear is recommended..... What kind of drive shafts do i need and why?

http://www.offroadevolution.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=EVO.Bolt.On.R
Click to expand...

You only need a front aftermarket shaft if you have an automatic or a 2012 or newer - regardless of transmission. I would recommend a JE Reel 1350 shaft.
 
wayoflife said:
Yes, you can definitely run adjustable short arms with the bolt on coil over kit.

Regarding your pics, your other kit properly recentered your rear axle. The kit you have on now have lower arms that are either set too short.

Regardless of short arm or long arm, you need to adjust the lower arms to reposition your axle under the fenders. Up front, the upper arms are used to set caster and in the rear, the upper arms are used to set your pinion. Long arms are ONLY used to correct your suspension geometry - make the arms sit flatter like stock.

You only need a front aftermarket shaft if you have an automatic or a 2012 or newer - regardless of transmission. I would recommend a JE Reel 1350 shaft.
Click to expand...

Moochie said:
With your current lift you should be using an an aftermarket front driveshaft.
Click to expand...

OK so I'm gonna just get adjustable short arms (any recommendations?) and the coilovers if all goes well ill have those by summer, in regards to the drive shaft comment by Moochie, I may already have a aftermarket front shaft, I bought used.... The former owner was an avid jeeper, this rubi has been to the jeep Jamboree 3 years running and I plan on taking her for the 4th trip this year, so the former owner may have already installed one I'll have to look.... He set it up pretty good. But if it's stock ill get that JE Reel shaft.

Thank you to everyone for helping clear this up for me. I really appreciate it!
 
You will need to trim your pinch seams once you get the 37's. I couldn't tell from your photo if it has been done.
 
wayoflife said:
Yup, just looked at his profile and you're right, he should be running one now.
Click to expand...

Just looked into have two Spicer shafts that look to be a lot newer than original. I called Spicer and gave p/n but the techs were gone and the lady could tell me if that was a factory set-up or not.... Does anyone know what shafts come STOCK in a 2010 JKU Rubicon?

I have two Spicer p/n if that helps

Front: 5010867-3

Rear: 5014248-1
 
Moochie said:
You will need to trim your pinch seams once you get the 37's. I couldn't tell from your photo if it has been done.
Click to expand...

I've been reading all this with great interest, and I was wondering if you could adjust the rear lower c/a's to center the axle instead of trimming the pinch seams, and if there was a measurement for this, or is it trial and error. I have a 4.5" lift, and want to go 35's next month. I would prefer not to trim the pinch seams if I could do something else.
 
Gibbo said:
I've been reading all this with great interest, and I was wondering if you could adjust the rear lower c/a's to center the axle instead of trimming the pinch seams, and if there was a measurement for this, or is it trial and error. I have a 4.5" lift, and want to go 35's next month. I would prefer not to trim the pinch seams if I could do something else.
Click to expand...

You'll probably need to trim the pinch seams regardless if you recenter your axle or not. Just part of the territory when running bigger tires - depends on the tires you run as some measure up bigger and others smaller :cool:
 
Gibbo said:
I've been reading all this with great interest, and I was wondering if you could adjust the rear lower c/a's to center the axle instead of trimming the pinch seams, and if there was a measurement for this, or is it trial and error. I have a 4.5" lift, and want to go 35's next month. I would prefer not to trim the pinch seams if I could do something else.
Click to expand...

My axle is centered with 37's. Trimming is required for better clearance. A centered axle with 35" tires doesn't require a trim if I remember correctly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom