Matt's build
- Thread starter MattAlpha
- Start date
Armydog
New member
Very nice!!!
ZombieLunchBox
New member
Looks awesome! So Jelly of that color! dont sell it anymore :tearsdrip:
MattAlpha
Caught the Bug
Thanks!
I searched all of New England to find a JKUR in Rescue Green that was a manual. After a few months I finally found the "right one." I ended up driving 3 hours to test drive it and then back again to buy it back in 2010.
I still love the color and I've got her modded the way I've wanted so far!
I searched all of New England to find a JKUR in Rescue Green that was a manual. After a few months I finally found the "right one." I ended up driving 3 hours to test drive it and then back again to buy it back in 2010.
I still love the color and I've got her modded the way I've wanted so far!
MattAlpha
Caught the Bug
After installing my Tuffy under seat security drawer, the stuff input inside of it kept banging around while wheeling last week. So I wrapped everything in a towel (while wheeling), but it worked loose and started bagging again. There is no way I'm going to put something of value in there without lining the inside of the drawer.
So I picked up some sheets of felt with an adhesive backing at the local craft store. I cleaned the metal with acetone, cut the felt to fit and installed it carefully.
Here are a couple of pics. Sorry for the poor quality:
Preparation.
So I picked up some sheets of felt with an adhesive backing at the local craft store. I cleaned the metal with acetone, cut the felt to fit and installed it carefully.
Here are a couple of pics. Sorry for the poor quality:
Preparation.
Attachments
Nick Zambo
Member
I was looking at this 1.5 max lift. I was wondering how long you have had it on your jeep. And what problems if any did you have. Also what size tires are you running.
Sorry for the 101 questions
MattAlpha
Caught the Bug
I'll take a look at the 1.5" max travel kit and get back to you.
I went with the 3.5" max travel because it replaced all. Of the control arms and the track bars plus it included the drag link flip kit. I'm running 35" NITTO EXO Grapplers with some room with stock fenders (not chopped). I have detailed the issues I had in this thread, but once I find that kit, I'll talk about any issues that will mostly be common between the kits.
I went with the 3.5" max travel because it replaced all. Of the control arms and the track bars plus it included the drag link flip kit. I'm running 35" NITTO EXO Grapplers with some room with stock fenders (not chopped). I have detailed the issues I had in this thread, but once I find that kit, I'll talk about any issues that will mostly be common between the kits.
Nick Zambo
Member
Would you send a photo from the top of the wheel to the bottom of the fender with a tape measure showing the distance?
I would like to see how many inches are between to help determine what I need.
Thanks.
Nick Zambo
Member
Wow that sits right level now. ( mine has the horrible nose dive factory look going on)
I think the right lift for me might be the 2.5. Matt the rig looks awesome. I have subscribed to this thread and hope you will continue to post the good and bad about this lift, I am a Q.C. Manager for a international company so it is important I keep doing my homework before I jump into something.
Again the rig looks awesome. And thank you for taking the time to take those photos.
Sorry one more thing did you change out the front drive shaft. I see on the web site it is recommended?
Nick
Last edited:
MattAlpha
Caught the Bug
Nick,
Thanks!
I did not change out the front drive shaft since I have a '07.
Each of the RK lift kits have various components included with them depending on the size of the lift.
I looked at the 1.5" max travel kit you asked about originally. The only potential problem I see is that it only comes with the lower control arms. The kit I installed replaced all lower and upper control arms. I say this because I've seen a lot of members post that they have a difficult time getting the suspension geometry set (including pinion angle) properly for their Jeeps after only installing RK lower control arms. This is because the RK lower control arms are longer than stock lower control arms and they can't adjust the stock upper arms to compensate.
I would look at all the components for the 2.5" kit you choose closely.
Just my 2 cents,
Matt
Thanks!
I did not change out the front drive shaft since I have a '07.
Each of the RK lift kits have various components included with them depending on the size of the lift.
I looked at the 1.5" max travel kit you asked about originally. The only potential problem I see is that it only comes with the lower control arms. The kit I installed replaced all lower and upper control arms. I say this because I've seen a lot of members post that they have a difficult time getting the suspension geometry set (including pinion angle) properly for their Jeeps after only installing RK lower control arms. This is because the RK lower control arms are longer than stock lower control arms and they can't adjust the stock upper arms to compensate.
I would look at all the components for the 2.5" kit you choose closely.
Just my 2 cents,
Matt
Nick Zambo
Member
Thanks Matt
I am just worried about the rear track bar issue I have been hearing a lot about. I read that one guy cut upper and lowers to compensate for the added length.
That you for all the help.
Nick.
I am just worried about the rear track bar issue I have been hearing a lot about. I read that one guy cut upper and lowers to compensate for the added length.
That you for all the help.
Nick.
MattAlpha
Caught the Bug
The rear track bar will only be an issue if the rear axle is "moved" back by the kit you purchase. My kit moved it back an inch which caused it to rub the spring on the passenger side. Some people are able to orient the bend of the track bar to clear the spring, I wasn't.
The other issue I had was with the relocation bracket for where the track bar will connect to the axle. Mine rubbed on the driver side shock's housing. If I would have gone with a different shock that may not have happened too.
Depending on the kit you pick, you may not have to worry about any of these potential issues.
-Matt
The other issue I had was with the relocation bracket for where the track bar will connect to the axle. Mine rubbed on the driver side shock's housing. If I would have gone with a different shock that may not have happened too.
Depending on the kit you pick, you may not have to worry about any of these potential issues.
-Matt
Nick Zambo
Member
Thanks For all the information Matt. Like I said I am going stay tuned into here and hope you post more pictures and info on the lift.
MattAlpha
Caught the Bug
Nick,
The last mod that I plan to do to "complete" my build is to install the Dynatrac Pro Grip brakes upgrade (from the 2014 SEMA show). It's going to be a few more weeks until they think it will be shipped though. I purchased it just before Thanksgiving and the shipping date slipped last week. It's a brand new kit so that makes sense. I'm not expecting to get it until February, then I'll install it.
The last mod that I plan to do to "complete" my build is to install the Dynatrac Pro Grip brakes upgrade (from the 2014 SEMA show). It's going to be a few more weeks until they think it will be shipped though. I purchased it just before Thanksgiving and the shipping date slipped last week. It's a brand new kit so that makes sense. I'm not expecting to get it until February, then I'll install it.
Jtmw
New member
Just saw this sorry for delay. I have 35"s am in love with the kit. Awesome ride and travel, I pre-ran some this weekend about 25mph on some rough trails was soaked up nicely
MattAlpha
Caught the Bug
It's been a while since I updated this thread. Over the past two years I've done several upgrades. Here are the ones I can remember off the top of my head:
- replaced RK track bar brackets with the EVO brackets and re-installed the OEM track bars
- various electrical upgrades (USB outlet, spare 12V sources, refreshed burnt out rock lights, installed LED interior dome lights and a few other things)
- replaced parking brake handle/unit
- replaced cracked OEM exhaust manifolds, decayed stock catalytic converter and muffler with JBA headers, new OEM cat and the Dynomax off-road (dump before the axle) exhaust
- replaced stock head unit with a Pioneer AVIC unit with front and rear cameras
I just finished replacing my ball joints and unit bearings. While I was doing this, I had all five tires road force balanced, rotated the tires, replaced my rear brake pads (due to abnormal wear on the driver's side), did an oil change and lubricated my RK suspension components and the Dynatrac ball joints.
Here are a few pictures:
I intended to re-weld my C-gussets while I had the ball joints out but the shop I was in wouldn't let me because I had gasoline in my gas tank...shop safety rules. The original welds were done quickly so to not ruin the OEM ball joints and were only meant to be temporary but had lasted several years. I had to hit the side of the upper C on the passenger side repeatedly to release the tense to remove the original ball joint that wouldn't budge even when being pressed with a pneumatic gun. I ended up hitting it with my 4lb sledge many times and I broke the upper welds in the process. As you guys know, its not structural but I intend to fix them in the next couple of days.
I have to say this was a pain to do without and extra set of hands. I'm very glad to be done with it. The ride is much better and feels smooth for the first time in a while on the road. It felt even better on the highway.
Now the bad...I smelled a weird burning smell when I got off of the highway that I had smelled before, but I couldn't remember or place it. Engine temps were perfect and I didn't see any smoke. When I got home, I got out of the Jeep and looked around. The engine compartment was fine. I then looked at the front suspension...everything was good. As I walked back to the driver's rear wheel the smell got stronger and the wheel itself was hot to the touch. That's when I discovered the rear caliper is jammed causing the pads to constantly drag. I had this same thing happen right after I installed this brake kit a few years ago, but with the driver's side front caliper. So I ordered a new rear caliper last night.
I originally decided to replace the rear pads due to abnormal wear (outer pad was worn more than the inner pad) on the driver's side rear brake. The slide pins were fine. Both rear rotors were verified to by the shop tech and did not need to be cut. So I pressed the pistons and installed the new hardware that comes in the Dynatrac kit, greased the ears & backs and installed the new pads. I must have had corrosion that I didn't see in the piston which is most likely causing it to jam and not fully release. This is an original caliper that spent 6 years in New England so I'm not surprised.
I'll take it apart this weekend to check the rotor and pads. Hopefully they will be fine.
'07 JKUR ... mod'ing never stops...
- replaced RK track bar brackets with the EVO brackets and re-installed the OEM track bars
- various electrical upgrades (USB outlet, spare 12V sources, refreshed burnt out rock lights, installed LED interior dome lights and a few other things)
- replaced parking brake handle/unit
- replaced cracked OEM exhaust manifolds, decayed stock catalytic converter and muffler with JBA headers, new OEM cat and the Dynomax off-road (dump before the axle) exhaust
- replaced stock head unit with a Pioneer AVIC unit with front and rear cameras
I just finished replacing my ball joints and unit bearings. While I was doing this, I had all five tires road force balanced, rotated the tires, replaced my rear brake pads (due to abnormal wear on the driver's side), did an oil change and lubricated my RK suspension components and the Dynatrac ball joints.
Here are a few pictures:
I intended to re-weld my C-gussets while I had the ball joints out but the shop I was in wouldn't let me because I had gasoline in my gas tank...shop safety rules. The original welds were done quickly so to not ruin the OEM ball joints and were only meant to be temporary but had lasted several years. I had to hit the side of the upper C on the passenger side repeatedly to release the tense to remove the original ball joint that wouldn't budge even when being pressed with a pneumatic gun. I ended up hitting it with my 4lb sledge many times and I broke the upper welds in the process. As you guys know, its not structural but I intend to fix them in the next couple of days.
I have to say this was a pain to do without and extra set of hands. I'm very glad to be done with it. The ride is much better and feels smooth for the first time in a while on the road. It felt even better on the highway.
Now the bad...I smelled a weird burning smell when I got off of the highway that I had smelled before, but I couldn't remember or place it. Engine temps were perfect and I didn't see any smoke. When I got home, I got out of the Jeep and looked around. The engine compartment was fine. I then looked at the front suspension...everything was good. As I walked back to the driver's rear wheel the smell got stronger and the wheel itself was hot to the touch. That's when I discovered the rear caliper is jammed causing the pads to constantly drag. I had this same thing happen right after I installed this brake kit a few years ago, but with the driver's side front caliper. So I ordered a new rear caliper last night.
I originally decided to replace the rear pads due to abnormal wear (outer pad was worn more than the inner pad) on the driver's side rear brake. The slide pins were fine. Both rear rotors were verified to by the shop tech and did not need to be cut. So I pressed the pistons and installed the new hardware that comes in the Dynatrac kit, greased the ears & backs and installed the new pads. I must have had corrosion that I didn't see in the piston which is most likely causing it to jam and not fully release. This is an original caliper that spent 6 years in New England so I'm not surprised.
I'll take it apart this weekend to check the rotor and pads. Hopefully they will be fine.
'07 JKUR ... mod'ing never stops...
BaddestCross
Active Member
I just replaced the ball joints, tie rod, and drag link on my '08 and it really made a huge difference for me on the road as well. My TREs were shot all around and along with the bad ball joints, were making my Jeep really flighty at speed. I feel your pain when it comes to doing that job... I hope I don't have to do the BJs again for a long time.
Looking at the pics you posted, I'm happy to see your axles are a little rusty. Mine came out looking about the same and I was a little worried.
I also replaced the exhaust with a Dynomax rock crawler system, but they didn't mention that they had one that dropped before the axle. I wish they had, because the new tail pipe on mine will get crushed the first time I drop off a ledge. I'm gonna have to take a sawzall to it and cut it flush with the bumper before that happens. I'm sure my manifolds are cracked as well. How are the headers working out for you? I read someone else here had problems with overheating when he installed them on his rig.
What rock lights do you run? I'm trying to decide on some myself.
I'd love to see some current pics of your Jeep. I'm partial to the color. :rock:
MattAlpha
Caught the Bug
I'll take a few pictures of my rig tomorrow and the exhaust and post them.
The headers are ok. The are a hotter so I wrapped them and cut out a small portion of my wheel well liners to help with the extra heat. I also have to retorque the bolts every 1,000 miles or so. I did not notice any power gains but I have more faith that I won't have to worry about them developing cracks.
The exhaust is "Dynomax 39516 Ultra Flo Stainless" kit. I ordered it off of Amazon. So far it's worked great but is a bit on the loud side for my wife and kids.
For rock lights, I'm running ten Eagle Eye 9W
LED lights that I originally bought on eBay. I fanned up my own wiring and mounts. My current set are from Amazon. They are supposed to water proof, but over for years about half of them had burnt out that I got on eBay. So far the LEDs I bought on Amazon are working perfectly.
'07 JKUR ... mod'ing never stops...