JK Front Dana 44 Rubicon axle into a WJ (99-04), ProRock 44 Swap

Got the bump stop pad on the left done. It's a simple 1x2 inch channel of steel and puts the pad identically where my existing one is on the other axle. It should work out great, I'll know for sure when I cycle the axle. Haven't figured out the passenger side yet.

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GraniteCrystal said:
The bumpstops are right next to the differential? That's what that last pic looks like

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Build thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=32769
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Yep. You can see them in the 1st post, 2nd picture, right on the frame/body rails. I bought JK stops just to be safe but I may not be using them. Which would be cool because it's one less thing to worry about.
 
Axle is in. Everything bolted up perfectly except the front driveshaft.

UPDATE SINCE INSTALL: Driveshaft was shortened 1.5 inches and fits perfectly.

As you can see, the drag link and track bar are at much better angles now.

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Brakes work great. ABS is working :thumb: . Steering is tight but a little flighty around 45-50 (SINCE INSTALL: TURNED OUT CASTER WAS TOO LOW), I'll have to diagnose it as soon as I can. No real clearance issues but I will have to re-do something on the bump stops. When we cycled the axle, it appeared they would be perfect but back on the ground, they're not. They're hitting the upper control arm bolts. And I heard every hit on the test drive. Doesn't appear to be any bump steer, but I didn't have a lot of time to drive it tonight.

Here's some of the details. This is how I assumed the bump stops would work by building a platform right behind the track bar bracket. When I was all done tonight, I did notice the axle needs to move to the left about half inch, so once I fix that, it may work good. (EDIT, THIS DIDN'T WORK. BUMP STOP PAD FELL OFF AS IT SITS ON EDGE OF AXLE INSTEAD OF CENTERED ON AXLE. WORKING ON A WELD ON SOLUTION FOR THIS).

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As far as the track bar, I had to shorten it about 5 inches. And now it looks like I'll have to shorten it another half inch or so. Luckily it is adjustable. After doing the string test, it appeared the best option for me at 4 inches of lift was to use the second hole down from the top on the track bar bracket (Clayton gives you 4) to keep the bar parallel with the drag link. I had to weld 12mm washers onto that hole because they are originally drilled out to big. I wanted to retain my factory sleeve and bolt size which is 12mm.

Track bar cut.

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Track bar sleeved.

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12mm washers welded on front and back. UPDATE: I used the 2nd hole down after a driving it a couple hundred miles which meant welding more washers.

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Just got a chance to drive it. ABS works! I made some edits throughout the thread above. Tried some panic stops and it works. :thumb: . So for a WJ owner wanting to make a JK 44 swap, simply splicing the wires together works. ABS MIL is not illuminated and ABS works during a panic stop.
 
Here's a picture of the bump stops. As you can see, the right one is digging into the upper control arm bolt. I'm hoping by shifting the axle to the right, it will fix this. I may cut the bolt ends off too.

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catahoula said:
Can you switch the bolt around?
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I definitely thought about that but both the JK and the WJ put them in that way. I'm super OCD about putting bolts back in OEM locations, due to clearance mistakes in the past, lol. I also don't want to fight getting it in or out. Either way, I have to shift the axle over an inch anyways, so I'll start there.
 
So I got the bump stop issue fixed :thumb:

To start with, adjusting the track bar and centering the axle helped with about 3/4" of clearance. Here's how she sits now. I'm loving the new stance:

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Here's where the old bump stop was hitting the upper control arm bolt:

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I removed the WJ OEM bump stop and cup, and installed a JK bump stop and cup in the rear hole of the frame (WJ is a rectangular bump stop so there are two holes for it).

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The bolt barely clears the front of the cup now. Even if during a hard hit, turn, etc, the bolt accidentally kisses it, it will just slowly erode away the metal and I'm not worried about it. On a test drive over speed bumps though, no noises at all.

Bolt travels right into the area where the arrow is pointing now:

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And here's a view from behind the axle showing the overall picture. I will have to build a bump stop platform on the axle eventually for shock/tire/frame clearance, but at least for now, I can drive it on the road.

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I think I got the passenger-side bump stop pad figured out. I'll have to cycle the axle again to be sure. I installed a spacer right behind the track bar bracket, so it leaves about 3 inches of up-travel. Unfortunately, the track bar bracket right next to it is about 2 7/8" from the frame rail. There's a thin piece of metal there, so I'll either let the track bar bracket hit it a few times and knock it down, or I'll knock it down myself. I could also add a large washer/spacer to the bump stop pad. (EDIT, THIS DIDN'T WORK. BUMP STOP PAD FELL OFF AS IT SITS ON EDGE OF AXLE INSTEAD OF CENTERED ON AXLE. WORKING ON A WELD ON SOLUTION FOR THIS).

Here's the pad.

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Measuring clearance from pad to bump cup.

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Measuring clearance from track bar bracket to frame rail.

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Overall view showing the bracket, the bump stop, and pad behind the TB bracket.

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Looking good WJCO. Be careful with that metal-to-metal contacting action. It's been cool seeing how your grafting this ProRock in. [emoji106]
 
JeepJeep75 said:
Looking good WJCO. Be careful with that metal-to-metal contacting action. It's been cool seeing how your grafting this ProRock in. [emoji106]
Click to expand...

Thanks. It's almost finished, just tying up loose ends. I have a lot of options for how to avoid the metal to metal hit. Once I put it back on jacks and cycle the axle, I'll have a more accurate idea of what I'm working with.
 
Drive line in. Shortening it 1.5 inches was perfect. I need to cycle the axle again, but at least I have it bolted up and in 4wd again.

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So now that track bar and drive shaft are in. I did one more cycle on the axle. Drive shaft clears fine which is awesome. Passenger side bump stop is done and works good, I did add a .25 spacer on top just to be safe. But now the driver's side is really close to hitting the upper mount bolt and air line. I don't know exactly what I'm going to do yet, but I have some time before summer.

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Passenger side is good:

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Drive shaft is good:

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I think I solved it. I'm going to use a JK bump stop. I just drilled a new hole in the cup so it's off to one side instead of centered. It'll move the bump stop over at least a half inch. I still may need to cut the arm mount bolt or turn it around. Then I'll go from there.

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