Jeep JK Wrangler Grade 8 Replacement Bolts - Do I Really Need Them?

Didn't read the whole thread but I actually replaced every single bolt with Grade 8 except uppers. That goes for Sway bar links, shocks, everything under.

Every trip something seemed to happen. Whether that was a trac bolt came loose or a sway bar link, almost everything did at one point. After the switch, nothing has and nor do I hear some of those annoying noises I used to. I tell everyone it was the best little mod I've done.
 
YellowJK said:
Didn't read the whole thread but I actually replaced every single bolt with Grade 8 except uppers. That goes for Sway bar links, shocks, everything under.

Every trip something seemed to happen. Whether that was a trac bolt came loose or a sway bar link, almost everything did at one point. After the switch, nothing has and nor do I hear some of those annoying noises I used to. I tell everyone it was the best little mod I've done.
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Sorry to break it to you, but if you read the FIRST post you would've read that Grade 8 bolts are not needed. If you regularly maintain your jeep which means you are checking torque regularly you a shouldn't see any bolts loosening. That is unless you are wheeling, In which case you should be checking and adjusting torque as things have a way of working themselves loose.
 
The first few posts of thus thread are spot on, but as luck would have it there will still be arguments that they are better.
 
YellowJK said:
Didn't read the whole thread but I actually replaced every single bolt with Grade 8 except uppers. That goes for Sway bar links, shocks, everything under.

Every trip something seemed to happen. Whether that was a trac bolt came loose or a sway bar link, almost everything did at one point. After the switch, nothing has and nor do I hear some of those annoying noises I used to. I tell everyone it was the best little mod I've done.
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Damn, Northridge is really good at sell you stuff! Well, if it helps you to sleep better at night believing your investment in bolts that you never needed in the first place was a worthy one, you keep believing just that. :yup:

BTW, can I have your old factory bolts? I'd be more than happy to pay for shipping :yup:
 
YellowJK said:
Didn't read the whole thread but I actually replaced every single bolt with Grade 8 except uppers. That goes for Sway bar links, shocks, everything under.

Every trip something seemed to happen. Whether that was a trac bolt came loose or a sway bar link, almost everything did at one point. After the switch, nothing has and nor do I hear some of those annoying noises I used to. I tell everyone it was the best little mod I've done.
Click to expand...

Checking the torque of your suspension components, prior to wheeling, was to difficult?
 
YellowJK said:
Didn't read the whole thread but I actually replaced every single bolt with Grade 8 except uppers. That goes for Sway bar links, shocks, everything under.

Every trip something seemed to happen. Whether that was a trac bolt came loose or a sway bar link, almost everything did at one point. After the switch, nothing has and nor do I hear some of those annoying noises I used to. I tell everyone it was the best little mod I've done.
Click to expand...

If you really want to complete the package, add some sleeves and gussets.
 
One other point about the factory bolts: Those pretty gold grade 8 bolts are cadmium plated. The factory bolts have some sort of galvanized coating (I think). Swap out just one factory bolt for one of those cad plated bolts, drive around for a winter in salt, then try to take it off and compare it with the factory bolt. I bet you will never do that again.

The coating on the factory bolts is significantly more resistant to the environment. As Eddie often says, "Ask me how I know."

Here is a cad plated aftermarket nut. One winter...

Dave

IMG_1054.jpg
 
MR.Ty said:
Checking the torque of your suspension components, prior to wheeling, was to difficult?
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When you go every weekend, yes.

Northridge said I didn't need them by the way. They said the same things all of you guys are saying. I have not had anything come loose now. Before it seemed like every trip. Maybe it doesn't work for you guys, but it did for me.
 
YellowJK said:
When you go every weekend, yes.

Northridge said I didn't need them by the way. They said the same things all of you guys are saying. I have not had anything come loose now. Before it seemed like every trip. Maybe it doesn't work for you guys, but it did for me.
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Well, that explains it! As everyone knows, I never go wheeling so really, what would I know about any of this.

I'm pretty sure I had asked before but, could I have your old factory bolts? You know, the ones you seem to think are junk? I'll pay for shipping :yup:
 
YellowJK said:
When you go every weekend, yes.

Northridge said I didn't need them by the way. They said the same things all of you guys are saying. I have not had anything come loose now. Before it seemed like every trip. Maybe it doesn't work for you guys, but it did for me.
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Then a paint pen would have served you well. Torque it, mark it, check it visually..... Time and money saved.
 
Geez, you guys are brutal sometimes. All I said is it worked for me and for under $100 it's not a big deal. I do mark the bolts. It wasn't them coming loose really, it was more of them lost on the trail that made me look for a solution.

I know you wheel harder than most people and go a lot. It wasn't meant that you don't know anything. Sure, you can have the bolts even though I'm sure it was sarcastic.
 
YellowJK said:
Geez, you guys are brutal sometimes. All I said is it worked for me and for under $100 it's not a big deal. I do mark the bolts. It wasn't them coming loose really, it was more of them lost on the trail that made me look for a solution.

I know you wheel harder than most people and go a lot. It wasn't meant that you don't know anything. Sure, you can have the bolts even though I'm sure it was sarcastic.
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He's serious. If not, I'm second in line for the bolts!!
 
YellowJK said:
Geez, you guys are brutal sometimes. All I said is it worked for me and for under $100 it's not a big deal. I do mark the bolts. It wasn't them coming loose really, it was more of them lost on the trail that made me look for a solution.

I know you wheel harder than most people and go a lot. It wasn't meant that you don't know anything. Sure, you can have the bolts even though I'm sure it was sarcastic.
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That leads me to question how they were "falling out" if they were properly torqued. What specification guide were you using? What kind of torque wrench do you have? Where you using any kind of extension?
 
MR.Ty said:
That leads me to question how they were "falling out" if they were properly torqued. What specification guide were you using? What kind of torque wrench do you have? Where you using any kind of extension?
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I'll take a guess on this one.

1. If he was checking the torque manually, that means that he likely incrementally over-torqued the bolts over time.

2. If he left his torque wrench set while stored (say on 70 ft lbs) then it's no longer calibrated and he's got the wrong amount of torque on them.

And in the end, the bolts were torqued to the wrong ft lbs and either stretched or loose.
 
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