Jabberjaw

Sharkey said:
If I’m not running an inverter or anything like that, shouldn’t a 100-150 AMP breaker be plenty?
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Oh yeah. I think the max draw of the compressor (which I assume is the largest thing you'll be running) is like 60ish amps. Honestly the one I use is a 300 and is probably too big. I mainly use it as a cutoff switch more than anything. It's only on when we use the inverter or the fridge.

Where are you planning on mounting it? I never did find a good spot. I zip tied it to the battery cover which was supposed to be temporary, but it's been there for a year now...

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Not sure. Honestly, my preference would be to just splice in some extra wire into the ARB harness (I only need it for the power and ground because I'm mounting the switch on the Decked.) Any reason why I can't just do that and call it a day?

I don't need a big power center in the back. My Gladiator came with the 110 outlet back there and I have already wired my fridge directly to the battery using the ARB kit.
 
Sharkey said:
Not sure. Honestly, my preference would be to just splice in some extra wire into the ARB harness (I only need it for the power and ground because I'm mounting the switch on the Decked.) Any reason why I can't just do that and call it a day?

I don't need a big power center in the back. My Gladiator came with the 110 outlet back there and I have already wired my fridge directly to the battery using the ARB kit.
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Sounds like extending the harness would be the easiest then. I would just go one size bigger gauge wire if it's a really long extra length.
 
WJCO said:
Sounds like extending the harness would be the easiest then. I would just go one size bigger gauge wire if it's a really long extra length.
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^^^^ This

Summit has "extreme condition" 8 Ga wire in a 25' spool for $32, not sure what gauge the ARB compressor wire is though.

I would probably not hook the ARB harness to the ignition like the instructions say & just wire it to be always hot if it were mine.
 
I might hook the switch trigger wire into one of the aux switches in the cab. That way nobody could turn the ARB on unintentionally.
 
Sharkey said:
If I’m not running an inverter or anything like that, shouldn’t a 100-150 AMP breaker be plenty?
Click to expand...
I’m running a 140 amp breaker and if I’m filling up the tires abs the ARB frig kicks on, it will blow the breaker. Don’t know if you plan on running the frig off the panel or not, but if you do, I’m going to swap my breaker out for a 200 amp.
 
Nope, fridge is already separately wired. I’m only wiring the twin, which is why I think I’ll just extend the +/- wires from the ARB harness.
 
ARB harness extensions are available. I just had to get one to fix my issue so it might be an option for you. Cost me $29 i think
 
You can easily extend the harness if that’s all you need. As stated go up a size in wire, don’t have to make it jumper wire thick, just a step or two bigger as the distance works against you. I wouldn’t personally use those red and black posts if you go that route, an uncovered pos post is just asking for trouble, yeah the breaker should trip if something bounces into it or whatever, but I wouldn’t even give it the chance.
 
Messing around with the ARB fridge that I have. You don’t realize how big these damn things are until you actually try to put them somewhere.
 

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Obviously, I can tie the fridge down pretty much anywhere in the back on the decked. I’m looking at secondary options that are more secure and out of the weather. If there is any real metal in the upper part of the rear seat, it might be kinda cool to put a removable fridge slide on the back of the seat.
 
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