How much lift?

R

RustyNance

Member
Still planning the transition to 37"s from stock tires on my 16 JK Rubicon. Considering a 4" lift from Rancho but frankly I'm just not certain this amount of lift is required. How much lift are others running on their JK Rubicons with 37" tires?
 
If you're willing to trim your fenders, you can practically run 37's with just a 2" lift. I personally would recommend more like 3" though.

That said, most lifts yield more lift than what is advertised when all is said and done. Something to keep in mind.
 
What he said ^

I have a JK as well, with a 2.5" lift on 35s. When I make the jump to 37s after swapping my front axle, I plan to throw on 37s with the current setup, trimming or replacing the fender flares of course. While that will work, I still would prefer more up/down travel down the line and therefore will go with a 3 or 3.5 inch system once I replace the shafts as well... It's a rabbit hole man. Need a lot of supporting mods - not just a bigger lift.
 
DirtHeadDavis said:
What he said ^

I have a JK as well, with a 2.5" lift on 35s. When I make the jump to 37s after swapping my front axle, I plan to throw on 37s with the current setup, trimming or replacing the fender flares of course. While that will work, I still would prefer more up/down travel down the line and therefore will go with a 3 or 3.5 inch system once I replace the shafts as well... It's a rabbit hole man. Need a lot of supporting mods - not just a bigger lift.
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Definitely, is why I'm trying to plan the build and identify requirements early. Fairly certain I'll replace the front axle housing, and many other mods as well. Just want to make sure I don't spend money twice by buying the wrong stuff the first time.
 
I will definitely trim the fenders, and want to keep the cg as low as practicable yet still allow articulation. 3" lift appears to be ideal, but most 3" kits are far from complete. Currently looking at the MetalCloak 3.5 " game-changer, but it is a 3.5" lift. May not need a high steer kit with the 3.5" lift buy I'll plead ignorance on this one. Truly wish there were more complete 3" lift options available. Also considering the Synergy 3" lift.
 
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RustyNance said:
I will definitely trim the fenders, and want to keep the cg as low as practicable yet still allow articulation. 3" lift appears to be ideal, but most 3" kits are far from complete. Currently looking at the MetalCloak 3.5 " game-changer, but it is a 3.5" lift. May not need a high steer kit with the 3.5" lift buy I'll plead ignorance on this one. Truly wish there were more complete 3" lift options available. Also considering the Synergy 3" lift.
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I run 3.5 Clayton lift on my JKU, 37's, you'll want to plan on a high steer kit or be ok with bump steer also budget drive shafts.

Droop the suspension to make sure the ABS lines have enough slack, as well as axle vent tubes and locker wiring.

I've got friends that started with metal cloak; don't use the 6 pack shocks, they suck. The rest of the components, meh - depends on where/how you plan to wheel.
 
RustyNance said:
I will definitely trim the fenders, and want to keep the cg as low as practicable yet still allow articulation. 3" lift appears to be ideal, but most 3" kits are far from complete. Currently looking at the MetalCloak 3.5 " game-changer, but it is a 3.5" lift. May not need a high steer kit with the 3.5" lift buy I'll plead ignorance on this one. Truly wish there were more complete 3" lift options available. Also considering the Synergy 3" lift.
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Like I said before, MOST kits will yield MORE lift than what is advertised, including the one you are looking at. As in, a good 2.5" kit will provide more than 3" of actual lift.

That said, what exactly do you think you need with a 3" lift to make it complete?
 
wayoflife said:
Like I said before, MOST kits will yield MORE lift than what is advertised, including the one you are looking at. As in, a good 2.5" kit will provide more than 3" of actual lift.

That said, what exactly do you think you need with a 3" lift to make it complete?
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There are things i'm just not certain of due to ignorance on my part: Top Steer relocation, all control arms replaced versus just upper or lower, etc... I realize the need for those things changes depending on the amount of lift. I don't want lift just for the sake of lift, I would rather keep the jeep lower yet still allow ample articulation for 37" tires should I ever get the opportunity to visit some of the rocky trails out west. I'm not reluctant to trim or replace the fenders, not even reluctant to spend on a quality kit. But I don't want to waste money by purchasing something that just doesn't contribute to my requirements of running 37" tires off-road, while still being suitable as a street driven vehicle.
 
RustyNance said:
There are things i'm just not certain of due to ignorance on my part: Top Steer relocation, all control arms replaced versus just upper or lower, etc... I realize the need for those things changes depending on the amount of lift. I don't want lift just for the sake of lift, I would rather keep the jeep lower yet still allow ample articulation for 37" tires should I ever get the opportunity to visit some of the rocky trails out west. I'm not reluctant to trim or replace the fenders, not even reluctant to spend on a quality kit. But I don't want to waste money by purchasing something that just doesn't contribute to my requirements of running 37" tires off-road, while still being suitable as a street driven vehicle.
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May have missed it but do you have a 2-door or a 4-door?
 
will you be adding a winch or aftermarket metal bumpers?
Do you have an idea of how much you will increase the overall weight of the Jeep?
That additional weight will also play into your decision as to which springs and lift, but I wouldn't go over 3.5"
Some springs are so stiff the lift is much more than stated and even with added weight they sit too high. Others are too soft and will provide no benefit under the Jeep's weight, IMO progressive/dual rate springs fall into this category if you have a heavy Jeep.

With a 2door, 3" keeps a nice stance and clearance to run 37's, 3.5" if you'll be adding a winch etc... It'll settle once the additional weight is added.
 
RustyNance said:
2 door JK Rubicon
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Okay, that helps a lot as a 2-door presents itself with a lot more to address. First and foremost, suspension geometry. If you really want to run 3.5" or more, I personally would recommend installing a long arm system. Without it, your short wheel base and the steep angles your factory length arms will be sitting at will provide a less than stellar ride ON PAVEMENT. Second, you really need to budget in aftermarket front and especially rear drive shafts. The rear is way too short and both will have the CV boots sitting in a constant state of pinch. This will cause them to fail very quickly. In any case, a long arm kit will come VERY COMPLETE.
 
I'll definitely be adding a winch and replacing both bumpers. Most likely a short or mid in the front. Perhaps the EVO 1/4 pounder or similar for the front.
 
If you can afford it, this is a kit that's about as complete and as good as it gets for a 2-door
evomfg.com

JK JKU EVO 3-5 INCH Lift KING COILOVER CONVERSION HIGH CLEARANCE LONG ARM PRO SUSPENSION (BLACK) JEEP WRANGLER 2 DOOR AND 4 DOOR 2007-2018

EVO MFG High Clearance Long Arm PRO Suspension (BLACK) JK JKU Package includes: EVO MFG Front LCG Bolt on Coilover Kit EVO MFG Draglink Flip Kit EVO MFG High Clearance PRO Long Arm Upgrade EVO MFG Rear LCG Bolt on Coilover Kit The EVO MFG Front and Rear LCG Bolt-On Coilover kits come complete...
evomfg.com evomfg.com
 
wayoflife said:
Okay, that helps a lot as a 2-door presents itself with a lot more to address. First and foremost, suspension geometry. If you really want to run 3.5" or more, I personally would recommend installing a long arm system. Without it, your short wheel base and the steep angles your factory length arms will be sitting at will provide a less than stellar ride ON PAVEMENT. Second, you really need to budget in aftermarket front and especially rear drive shafts. The rear is way too short and both will have the CV boots sitting in a constant state of pinch. This will cause them to fail very quickly. In any case, a long arm kit will come VERY COMPLETE.
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This^^
I have a short arm on the JKU, long arm on the JLU and damn, what a difference on and off road.
 
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