Highway Overheating

Ruvicon said:
Change your heater hoses at the same time as radiator hoses and replace your thermostat too while system is open. Use only Mopar parts. Ask me why I know...


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Have you found a "preferred tool" to replace the heater hoses? Those rearward ones look impossible to get to. I bought the hoses, but am hesitant to get to it due to accessibility. 3.8L
 
I noticed the same a few weeks ago on the long US395 climb south of Mammoth. I was loaded and towing our basecamp military trailer, but that is a very regular scenario for us. The only difference over last trip were the 37s and machetes. I have not regeared yet (still 4.10) so assumed that was my issue...


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
fiend said:
Only thing I’m not thrilled about is the roller fairlead sticking out so much, but that’s not the fault of the bumper. I recently hit it and bent it, so the rollers are bound up. So I have to replace the fairlead, which is making me consider switching to synthetic rope and a hawse design. One more thing to spend money on, I guess. [emoji38]


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...
IMG_7729.JPG
I was not a fan of the rollers either so I never mounted it... when I purchased my M8000, I found a hawse designed for cable offered by Warn. Sorry to hijack, just letting fiend know what I found.



Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
PokerStogey said:
View attachment 334125
I was not a fan of the rollers either so I never mounted it... when I purchased my M8000, I found a hawse designed for cable offered by Warn. Sorry to hijack, just letting fiend know what I found.



Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Thanks. In my typically frugal way, I shopped around and ended up with a 3/8”x100’ Amsteel Blue rope, a Factor 55 hawse fairlead, and a Factor 55 flat splicer, all for about $300. Everything should arrive by Saturday.

Steel cable has worked fine for me, but I’m looking forward to having safer line that’s lighter and doesn’t bird nest so easily.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Last edited:
fiend said:
Thanks. In my typically frugal way, I shopped around and ended up with a 3/8”x100’ Amsteel Blue rope, a Factor 55 hawse fairlead, and a Factor 55 flat splicer, all for about $300. Everything should arrive by Saturday.

Steel cable has worked fine for me, but I’m looking forward to having safer line that’s lighter and doesn’t bird nest so easily.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Question: where did you find all that for $300, specifically the rope? Most Blue Rope i find is close to $300 for just the rope
 
Benito said:
Question: where did you find all that for $300, specifically the rope? Most Blue Rope i find is close to $300 for just the rope
Click to expand...

R&W Rope, in their clearance section. Actually, now that I see it, it’s not Samson Amsteel Blue but rather New England Rope’s version of the same thing, Endura 12. Both are made of Dyneema SK-75.

https://rwrope.com/rope/rope-by-use...ndura-12-12-strand-dyneema-rope-3-8-diameter/

The Factor 55 stuff I got directly from them using their first responders discount.

All totaled, $306.30.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Last edited:
fiend said:
R&W Rope, in their clearance section. Actually, now that I see it, it’s not Samson Amsteel Blue but rather New England Rope’s version of the same thing, Endura 12. Both are made of Dyneema SK-75.

https://rwrope.com/rope/rope-by-use...ndura-12-12-strand-dyneema-rope-3-8-diameter/

The Factor 55 stuff I got directly from them using their first responders discount.

All totaled, $306.30.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

I just installed that Factor 55 Splicer also. Like the fact that no UV rays reach the eye as was the case with my previous thimble. Proven fact that UV rays drastically deteriorate synthetic line.
 
Slimebones said:
I just installed that Factor 55 Splicer also. Like the fact that no UV rays reach the eye as was the case with my previous thimble. Proven fact that UV rays drastically deteriorate synthetic line.
Click to expand...

I liked that it eliminates the thimble and snugs up tight against the fairlead. Have you used it?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Slimebones said:
Have you found a "preferred tool" to replace the heater hoses? Those rearward ones look impossible to get to. I bought the hoses, but am hesitant to get to it due to accessibility. 3.8L
Click to expand...

The rear clamps are a PIA. I couldn’t get my hands in there, so I removed the upper section of the air intake and used one of these tools to remove the clamps. What made it harder was the placement (rotation) of the clamps.

IMG_9857.jpg

I recommend Mopar hoses as I recently had brand new Gates fail on me causing an underhood [emoji91] which is detailed in an another post. The Mopar hoses are of a higher quality, but do cost more, but worth it. Same applies to the thermostat compared to a Stant.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
fiend said:
Thanks. In my typically frugal way, I shopped around and ended up with a 3/8”x100’ Amsteel Blue rope, a Factor 55 hawse fairlead, and a Factor 55 flat splicer, all for about $300. Everything should arrive by Saturday.

Steel cable has worked fine for me, but I’m looking forward to having safer line that’s lighter and doesn’t bird nest so easily.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

I get it... synthetic is the way to go. I honestly hate wasting money and was just afraid I’d be replacing the rope way more often than I use it. It gets freaking hot here and as stated above, UV is the enemy


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
fiend said:
I liked that it eliminates the thimble and snugs up tight against the fairlead. Have you used it?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Have not used it yet, had to take this week off. Back at it next week and well let you know. Splicing was really simple and looks sound.

Edit: Thinking of challenging Boardsurfer to a winch pulloff, face to face. We both have two doors and running the same Coopers. First to break traction loses. Should be a good test for my splice.
 
Last edited:
Ruvicon said:
The rear clamps are a PIA. I couldn’t get my hands in there, so I removed the upper section of the air intake and used one of these tools to remove the clamps. What made it harder was the placement (rotation) of the clamps.

View attachment 334163

I recommend Mopar hoses as I recently had brand new Gates fail on me causing an underhood [emoji91] which is detailed in an another post. The Mopar hoses are of a higher quality, but do cost more, but worth it. Same applies to the thermostat compared to a Stant.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Yeah, they look really difficult to access. Getting to the point where I can't ignore any longer, being they are stock on an '07. Age becomes a strong factor here. (not to mention the age of my aching back on a project like this!)
 
Slimebones said:
Yeah, they look really difficult to access. Getting to the point where I can't ignore any longer, being they are stock on an '07. Age becomes a strong factor here. (not to mention the age of my aching back on a project like this!)
Click to expand...

I tried to remove the clamps with intake in place and it was a bitch with the position of the clamps. Access was much easier with upper plastic portion of the intake removed and those gaskets weren’t very expensive. I later had a leak on the lower and in retrospect should have changed them all at once since I had over 90k miles on my ‘08. You might consider doing the same since you’re halfway there.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Ruvicon said:
I tried to remove the clamps with intake in place and it was a bitch with the position of the clamps. Access was much easier with upper plastic portion of the intake removed and those gaskets weren’t very expensive. I later had a leak on the lower and in retrospect should have changed them all at once since I had over 90k miles on my ‘08. You might consider doing the same since you’re halfway there.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Invaluable advise. Thank you for sharing that. Makes sense.
 
Make sure your raditor doesnt look like this...
 

Attachments

  • 20190825_145935.jpg
    20190825_145935.jpg
    160.2 KB · Views: 92
Slimebones said:
Have not used it yet, had to take this week off. Back at it next week and well let you know. Splicing was really simple and looks sound.

Edit: Thinking of challenging Boardsurfer to a winch pulloff, face to face. We both have two doors and running the same Coopers. First to break traction loses. Should be a good test for my splice.
Click to expand...

Got the synthetic rope, new fairlead, and flat splice installed. Definitely a sleeker look than what I had before.

Before:

EC88FD53-F9DC-4222-86C4-E0398EC4D543.jpg

After:

IMG_2838.jpgIMG_2839.jpg

I’ll be interested to try it out on the trail.

Probably lost about 40lbs from the front end.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom