Front axle issue

JKDream said:
WJCO - I think the tube is bent. It could have been bent for quite some time and you are just noticing now because you pulled the shaft.

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I definitely appreciate your feedback. It seems to me (just thinking) that if the axle were bent that the inclinometer reading on top of the top ball joints would be different, as in a different slope. Make sense or am I way off?
 
WJCO said:
Wouldn't he have noticed it when he changed the ujoint about 1000 miles ago? Unless he's been on a rough trail since then, which I do not know.
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Possibly. It depends though. When my D30 bent, it was every so slightly and didn't cause much issue. Over time it got worse and started leaking gear oil, and I started breaking shafts from how cockeyed they were. Are any of the plug welds broken?

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Slimebones said:
I definitely appreciate your feedback. It seems to me (just thinking) that if the axle were bent that the inclinometer reading on top of the top ball joints would be different, as in a different slope. Make sense or am I way off?
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No, you're probably right. I typically measured from the diff to the knuckle in a straight line and you can see from that how it's bent (if it is). I'll try and find you a photo for reference.

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Here's another pic of his axle from the other thread showing part of the pumpkin but can't really see the welds. Also looks like it's sleeved and the outer tubes were drilled and welded when the sleeves were put in. So if it is bent, it would have to be at the pumpkin. Again, when this broke, he was just winching in the snow with the wheels turned, no bumps, no speed.

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WJCO said:
Again, when this broke, he was just winching in the snow with the wheels turned, no bumps, no speed.
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I hear what you're saying, my concern is that the housing was already bent.
I noticed in the photo the shaft is pointing downwards towards the ball-joint.
Mine had the same issue, but was pushing against the front of the tube, as it was bent backwards.
We also had to pry at the shaft in order to get the unit bearing on.
Mine was bent at the diff - and my plug welds were cracked.
Not saying this is for sure the issue, but definitely something to keep in mind.
 
JKDream said:
I hear what you're saying, my concern is that the housing was already bent.
I noticed in the photo the shaft is pointing downwards towards the ball-joint.
Mine had the same issue, but was pushing against the front of the tube, as it was bent backwards.
We also had to pry at the shaft in order to get the unit bearing on.
Mine was bent at the diff - and my plug welds were cracked.
Not saying this is for sure the issue, but definitely something to keep in mind.
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I sure hope that's not the case, but of course anything is possible. Just to clarify, the only prying was to get the axle out of the circular opening in the knuckle. It slid in and out of diff tube fine. When the ujoint had broken, it bent the ear of the axle yoke up enough that the overall width of the axle yoke was wider than the knuckle opening, so we basically had to bend the yoke back flat to get it out of the circular knuckle opening. And our prying wasn't that manly, lol.

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X2 on the manly prying. At that point, I did not have enough strength left to bend a wet noodle! I am really trying to consider if I could have bent that axle previously and can't imagine how it happened. Nothing extreme since I put in the u-joints and at that point both shafts slipped right in with no effort as designed. Note: did not have oil leaking from this shaft prior to breakage, therefore I would think things were straight up until then.
 
Slimebones said:
X2 on the manly prying. At that point, I did not have enough strength left to bend a wet noodle! I am really trying to consider if I could have bent that axle previously and can't imagine how it happened. Nothing extreme since I put in the u-joints and at that point both shafts slipped right in with no effort as designed. Note: did not have oil leaking from this shaft prior to breakage, therefore I would think things were straight up until then.
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When you previously replaced the ujoints, why were you replacing them? If I recall, you said you were just doing it for a preventative measure, correct?
 
Another question, if this axle were bent at pumpkin, wouldn't the clearance at opening in knuckle still be a straight shot? Axle shaft u-joint yoke actually hits at bottom of that large opening in knuckle, thus preventing it from going in. Sorry this is not apart at this time so can not send pictures. Really appreciate the extra thought you guys are putting into this. I like to take a systematic approach at diagnosing issues instead of just throwing parts at something. Trying to figure this out.
 
WJCO said:
When you previously replaced the ujoints, why were you replacing them? If I recall, you said you were just doing it for a preventative measure, correct?
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That is correct. Original joints had 60k miles on them. Did not want to be "that guy" who did not do his maintenance as required. Thought I would stay ahead of this so they would not be an issue. To be sure, I have replaced many u-joints in my time. Just did not take heed to Eddie's warning about the c-clip units. Now have Revolution chromoly with full circle clips. It is installed in passenger side and am running with plug in driver's side to keep lube in, same as in photo by WJCO
 
Slimebones said:
Another question, if this axle were bent at pumpkin, wouldn't the clearance at opening in knuckle still be a straight shot? Axle shaft u-joint yoke actually hits at bottom of that large opening in knuckle, thus preventing it from going in. Sorry this is not apart at this time so can not send pictures. Really appreciate the extra thought you guys are putting into this. I like to take a systematic approach at diagnosing issues instead of just throwing parts at something. Trying to figure this out.
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No because the shaft going into the carrier would want to sit straight.
Say the tube was bent upwards, if you got the shaft into the carrier then the shaft would be pointed downwards or rubbing against the bottom of the tube at the knuckle side.
 
JKDream said:
No because the shaft going into the carrier would want to sit straight.
Say the tube was bent upwards, if you got the shaft into the carrier then the shaft would be pointed downwards or rubbing against the bottom of the tube at the knuckle side.
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I am beginning to smell what you are cooking. Looking like I have to bite the bullet. I believe these shafts and my 513's will fit in a Dynatrac pr44. Just hard to accept for sure since I seem to be a cautious driver.
 
I sure hope that's not it, but it is what it is. Also when you started the day, your lockers weren't engaging, wonder if there is something related there if indeed something is bent :idontknow:
 
WJCO said:
I sure hope that's not it, but it is what it is. Also when you started the day, your lockers weren't engaging, wonder if there is something related there if indeed something is bent :idontknow:
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Locker issue is resolved. If you recall the 4wd indicator on dash was not illuminating. Lockers will only engage if in 4wd low range. Computer was not recognizing it was in low range in order to tell the lockers to engage. Installed new switch on top of transfer case, now computer recognizes message to engage lockers. Works fine now with new switch.
 
Slimebones said:
Locker issue is resolved. If you recall the 4wd indicator on dash was not illuminating. Lockers will only engage if in 4wd low range. Computer was not recognizing it was in low range in order to tell the lockers to engage. Installed new switch on top of transfer case, now computer recognizes message to engage lockers. Works fine now with new switch.
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That's good to hear.
 
WJCO said:
I sure hope that's not it, but it is what it is. Also when you started the day, your lockers weren't engaging, wonder if there is something related there if indeed something is bent :idontknow:
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Something weird that happened when mine bent, the front wheels would both spin forwards as if the locker was engaged, but it wasn't actuated.

When I straightened the housing it began acting as an open diff (one tire rotating the opposite way).
I think it was from the stress on the spider gears from the shaft being pried over.

I'm hoping yours is just some fluke issue that can be easily resolved!
 
JKDream said:
Something weird that happened when mine bent, the front wheels would both spin forwards as if the locker was engaged, but it wasn't actuated.

When I straightened the housing it began acting as an open diff (one tire rotating the opposite way).
I think it was from the stress on the spider gears from the shaft being pried over.

I'm hoping yours is just some fluke issue that can be easily resolved!
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How did you straighten the housing?
 
JKDream said:
Bottlejack/chain.
Wouldn't really recommend, I just did it as I was saving for a prorock :D
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Yes I have to save/plan also. HUGE hit to wallet. Good thing there is still lots of snow in mountains, as I will never do that again in those snow conditions. Thanks again for the time you spent on this and to you others as well. I am going to go drown myself now in beer.:beer::beer::beer:
 
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