evo bolt on coil over question

What are the rear coil rates?
The original design had 200top/200lower. With my after market bumper and 37 spare i couldnt get more than 3.5". I now have 250/250 and get 4-4.5 depending on how I adjust. I think Evo now goes with 200/250 or 250/250.

It may settle alittle (1/2") but not a lot.

When ypu add larger spare and after mkt bumper ypu should be OK. Otherwise, ypu can go with lower coil rate

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RanchoRubi said:
What are the rear coil rates?
The original design had 200top/200lower. With my after market bumper and 37 spare i couldnt get more than 3.5". I now have 250/250 and get 4-4.5 depending on how I adjust. I think Evo now goes with 200/250 or 250/250.

It may settle alittle (1/2") but not a lot.

When ypu add larger spare and after mkt bumper ypu should be OK. Otherwise, ypu can go with lower coil rate

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Click to expand...

They are the standard rate that evo ships.

How can someone determine what rate coils they have?


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JRW1223 said:
I just finished installing this lift but the jeep hasn’t moved because I still need to bleed the brakes. It’s currently sitting with 5 inches of height front and rear.
For those of you that installed this kit yourself, how much did the height of the Jeep drop after a few mile drive and settling of the springs? I’m asking because I want to drop to 3” inches of lift height but can’t go any lower in the rear because I can’t spin the top collar. I’m running an evo roll cage, stock rear bumper, the stock spare at the moment. View attachment 289039


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When you say 5" of height, are you describing additional ride height or up-travel?
 
aTX427 said:
When you say 5" of height, are you describing additional ride height or up-travel?
Click to expand...

5” of total ride height and can’t spin the top collar to adjust down to 3” of ride height.

The rear spring rates are 200/250. Sounds like I need to add a heavier rear bumper and mount a bigger spare tire. I plan on doing this anyway in the next few months.


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There are better ways of controlling ride height than adding weight. I needed to drop 2" in the rear and 1" in the front, so I installed 150/200 springs in the rear and 200/250 in the front.
 
aTX427 said:
There are better ways of controlling ride height than adding weight. I needed to drop 2" in the rear and 1" in the front, so I installed 150/200 springs in the rear and 200/250 in the front.
Click to expand...

That approach will work as long as more weight like bumper and spares and tools aren’t added later. Otherwise you will bottom out( went through this before myself).

If you plan on staying with the same overall weight for a while, then 200/200 in rear should get you to 4-4.5.




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ERAUGrad04 said:
Might want to double check on whether or not the Pro Chambers will work with coilovers. Speaking with the folks at Off Road Evolution, they said they MIGHT work with coilovers and for sure will not work (without spacers) with the DTD.

I personally liked the looks of the PCs a little more than the Slabs, however, knowing I am planning coilovers in the future, I was worried about having to double buy.
Click to expand...

I run Chamber Pros at 4.06 back spacing with EVO coil overs and they work just fine.


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JRW1223 said:
I just finished installing this lift but the jeep hasn’t moved because I still need to bleed the brakes. It’s currently sitting with 5 inches of height front and rear.
For those of you that installed this kit yourself, how much did the height of the Jeep drop after a few mile drive and settling of the springs? I’m asking because I want to drop to 3” inches of lift height but can’t go any lower in the rear because I can’t spin the top collar. I’m running an evo roll cage, stock rear bumper, the stock spare at the moment. View attachment 289039


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Click to expand...

Height did not drop


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RanchoRubi said:
That approach will work as long as more weight like bumper and spares and tools aren’t added later. Otherwise you will bottom out( went through this before myself).

If you plan on staying with the same overall weight for a while, then 200/200 in rear should get you to 4-4.5.




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Click to expand...

Valid points. That is loaded with my tools, spare and cooler. The OP's needs may surely be different and 200/200 could lower his by an inch with no other changes.
 
aTX427 said:
Valid points. That is loaded with my tools, spare and cooler. The OP's needs may surely be different and 200/200 could lower his by an inch with no other changes.
Click to expand...

As I recall you have aluminum stuff where others may have steel, so lighter springs may be better for your set up. Also having the spare inside de-leverages the weight off the rear springs.
 
Question on spring lengths. On the front EVO Bolt-on CO's come with 2.5 12 250 top and bottom. Being the springs are the same rate and length the slide stays in the middle I am unable to adjust my tone ring down to the 3/4" above the the slide I am supposed to. ORE set my preload with about 2 3/4" of thread showing and 3/4" on the rear. The other day had the Jeep up on a lift with all suspension hanging. When I got home I noticed something didn't look right on the front CO's. It was the slide stuck or bound up on the bottom of the shock tube. I freed it up and now at ride height about 1 1/4 of shock body sticks through the slide. So I'm thinking if and when I flex out on a obstacle it will do the same. Any thoughts on this.
 
Seahawkfan said:
Question on spring lengths. On the front EVO Bolt-on CO's come with 2.5 12 250 top and bottom. Being the springs are the same rate and length the slide stays in the middle I am unable to adjust my tone ring down to the 3/4" above the the slide I am supposed to. ORE set my preload with about 2 3/4" of thread showing and 3/4" on the rear. The other day had the Jeep up on a lift with all suspension hanging. When I got home I noticed something didn't look right on the front CO's. It was the slide stuck or bound up on the bottom of the shock tube. I freed it up and now at ride height about 1 1/4 of shock body sticks through the slide. So I'm thinking if and when I flex out on a obstacle it will do the same. Any thoughts on this.
Click to expand...
That seems like a lot of preload and too much preload can do that. There is another slider out there that is taller then the King one, I think its AMG but not 100 percent sure. Or you can switch out spring rate to lessen preload to maintain same stance.
 
MericaMade said:
That seems like a lot of preload and too much preload can do that. There is another slider out there that is taller then the King one, I think its AMG but not 100 percent sure. Or you can switch out spring rate to lessen preload to maintain same stance.
Click to expand...
Yea that's what I thought too. In the photo you can see I have about 4" of non threaded shock body. I'm still not sure why the springs are not different lengths or rates. All my searches seem to come with a different spring length for upper and lower.
20210702_071029.jpg
 
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Seahawkfan said:
Yea that's what I thought too. In the photo you can see I have about 4" of non threaded shock body. I'm still not sure why the springs are not different lengths or rates. All my searches seem to come with a different spring length for upper and lower.
View attachment 364695
Click to expand...
Yeah, that’s a ton of preload. I had to change out a couple of my springs to get it to sit right. I’m running 250/300 up front and 300/350 rears. All have less than 2” of preload in on all corners.

I am running AGMs, they are a bit taller than the kings.
 
wjtstudios said:
Yeah, that’s a ton of preload. I had to change out a couple of my springs to get it to sit right. I’m running 250/300 up front and 300/350 rears. All have less than 2” of preload in on all corners.

I am running AGMs, they are a bit taller than the kings.
Click to expand...
Are they 12" up front top and bottom?
 
Seahawkfan said:
Are they 12" up front top and bottom?
Click to expand...
Yeah 12x250 over 12x250 in the front and 10x200 over 12x250 in the rear.

Now I am running 12x250 over 12x300 up front and 10x250 over 12x250 in the rear with less then 2 inch of preload.

You can also flip the slider over so the longer part is facing up.
 
Finally got my King nitrogen gauge so I can keep tabs on the pressure. First check shows front driver 2psi. The rest read about 226psi. This reading was taken with full weight on the CO's. I have read that they need to be checked fully extended and I have also read that is not necessary. I have read with full weight fill them to 70psi and fully extended to 150psi.
Does anyone know the proper way to fill them?
Do any of you that have them filled properly, have a reading with jeeps full weight? I should be getting my nitrogen tank in the day or so.
Thanks
 
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