Enforcers Unite!

TFD said:
Did you have to change your bump stops when you installed the rock stars?
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Depends on how much bump u have. If anything, youll beed a bit more so your shocks dont bottom out. The longer your shocks are, the more of an issue it can be
 
MedixJK said:
Depends on how much bump u have. If anything, youll beed a bit more so your shocks dont bottom out. The longer your shocks are, the more of an issue it can be
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Ok thanks. I have the 3 inch enforcer with bilsteins. I think the bilsteins might be too long. Maybe I'll switch to the ranchos.
 
MR.Ty said:
Being that you have a two door, it will work for a while but you'll need front and rear drive shafts eventually. And when you get a rear shaft you'll need adjustable uppers to set your pinion angle.
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Would it make sense to just install the rear adjustable uppers when I install the lift?
 
Eagle1911 said:
Would it make sense to just install the rear adjustable uppers when I install the lift?
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Yes, you will already have the axle free (shocks, springs, and drag link anyway) It will only be the 4 18 or 21mm bolts (I cant remember which exactly) on each side of the axle and the frame holding the upper arms in. be sure to have an angle finder to reset pinion angle and a jack under the axle pumpkin to help mitigate rotation just like the front. :thumb:

When I did my long arms, I set my rear pinion angle off I think it was 1.5°? whatever JE REEL recommends for there drivelines, so when I change the driveshaft, all I have to do is swap it out, no messing with pinion angle. The slight degree change with your factory Rzeppa shaft will do no harm, so might as well set it right the first time.
 
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Enforcer and PR44 Unlimited

so i finally got my PR44 installed and did an alignment using Eddies write-up, i was able to get the caster set to 5.1 degrees (got it checked at a shop, they could not adjust it any more than that....my toe was still off) by setting the lower control arms as short as possible, the caster is good and drivable and within spec. However, it looks like my axle is set too far back and my springs have a nasty bow in them at ride height and the axle bump stop does not line up with the upper bumpstop. is the solution here to move the axle foward with the lower arms and install a set of adjustable uppers to adjust the caster? has anyone else ran into this issue?
 
Went out to check a little flex since I got the 4" enforcer installed. I didn't have time to disconnect front sway bars but when I was backing down to get a better angle I heard a noise under the jeep. I know I need a new front drive shaft with this lift on a JKU. But I now will need a new rear drive shaft. 20160401_100021.jpg
Any ideas how long this will last? Ithe looks like it hit evaporated canister.
 
Benito said:
so i finally got my PR44 installed and did an alignment using Eddies write-up, i was able to get the caster set to 5.1 degrees (got it checked at a shop, they could not adjust it any more than that....my toe was still off) by setting the lower control arms as short as possible, the caster is good and drivable and within spec. However, it looks like my axle is set too far back and my springs have a nasty bow in them at ride height and the axle bump stop does not line up with the upper bumpstop. is the solution here to move the axle foward with the lower arms and install a set of adjustable uppers to adjust the caster? has anyone else ran into this issue?
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This is not the first time I heard of this issue when swapping to a PR axle, but as you do not have adjustable uppers, there is no way for you to move the axle forward. Is it something close? say, running closer to 4° caster would fix?
 
pop2tu said:
Went out to check a little flex since I got the 4" enforcer installed. I didn't have time to disconnect front sway bars but when I was backing down to get a better angle I heard a noise under the jeep. I know I need a new front drive shaft with this lift on a JKU. But I now will need a new rear drive shaft. View attachment 195638
Any ideas how long this will last? Ithe looks like it hit evaporated canister.
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Same thing happened to me 2 weeks ago. You can get a replacement boot for about $18 or a kit (boot, CV clamps, and grease) for about $60. No need to replace the driveshaft but it will likely happen again if you wheel a lot.

Here's a video someone made on how to replace it
https://youtu.be/H38S1LCSjyU
 
oyoquem said:
Same thing happened to me 2 weeks ago. You can get a replacement boot for about $18 or a kit (boot, CV clamps, and grease) for about $60. No need to replace the driveshaft but it will likely happen again if you wheel a lot.

Here's a video someone made on how to replace it
https://youtu.be/H38S1LCSjyU
Click to expand...

Thanks, that will buy me some time until I'm ready to buy the rear drive shaft. Thanks
 
So is a front and rear drive shaft typically needed with the Enforcer? Sounds like a common problem. Thought you only needed a front
 
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