MericaMade
Active Member
Yes it a Adams 1350 double cardan and yes I got the unlimited PR44. I went off the Evo arm specs I posted above and the bump stop angles and pinon just didn't look right to me. Thanks Fiend, I appreciate the help.
Build of my JKU
- Thread starter MericaMade
- Start date
Yes it a Adams 1350 double cardan and yes I got the unlimited PR44. I went off the Evo arm specs I posted above and the bump stop angles and pinon just didn't look right to me. Thanks Fiend, I appreciate the help.
desertrunner
Hooked
Dynatracs recommendations were 7* caster and 3* drive shaft. That's where mine is set at and I get maybe a hardly noticeable vibration at 75mph but I usually don't drive it above 70 anyways
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MericaMade
Active Member
You reminded me of the info DT sent me. Thank you.
"The ProRock 44 Unlimited housing has 10 degrees of separation between the pinion and caster axises. This allows the end user to run between 6 and 8 degrees caster with a pinion angle between 2 and 4 degrees pointed up."
Simple fix!
jeffj
Caught the Bug
In the front the pinion angle is not going to be the same. I would try 7 and see if you have any vibration, if not it should be close. I would want it at 6 or 7, it will drive really nice at highway speeds at that. In the back you will want your pinion angle to match the drive shaft.
Looks awesome! Those coil overs are sweet.:thumb:
Looks awesome! Those coil overs are sweet.:thumb:
MericaMade
Active Member
I had it set at 7* with the coils and set the upper at a different length with the CO's. I am going to push the uppers out and shoot for 7* caster and see what the drive line changes to.
fiend
Caught the Bug
I have the same axle and run 5 degrees caster and 5 degrees pinion angle with a 4.5” lift. I have no driveline vibrations and I can take my hands off the wheel at 80 MPH and she tracks straight. If I had less lift I could go with more caster. Do some experimenting and see what works for you.
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MericaMade
Active Member
MericaMade
Active Member
So I thought the tooth being off was the issue. I made sure the front shaft was on the correct marks, reinstalled, torque to specs, checked pinion angles, took for a drive and vibrated like a SOB from 60 and up.
Recheck everything and came across this. Is this normal?
https://youtu.be/P64kLYs0aDo
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Recheck everything and came across this. Is this normal?
https://youtu.be/P64kLYs0aDo
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JKbrick
Active Member
Doesn’t look normal, your hand was blocking whether the pinion was moving or if the problem is the driveshaft
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MericaMade
Active Member
No pinion was not moving. PR44 only has a few hundred miles on it. It only moves at the splines.
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fiend
Caught the Bug
This angle is likely your issue. Fix that and see what happens. Get your pinion pointed at your transfer case. 
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MericaMade
Active Member
I did and I changed it to match DT specs and had a buddy verify they proper angles as well.
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fiend
Caught the Bug
What’s your caster now?
By the way, I’ve heard more than one story of Adams driveshafts being unbalanced from the get go. If everything else has been checked and eliminated, take your shaft to a shop and have them check for runout.
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MericaMade
Active Member
I set it to the driveline over caster. 3 degree at the pinion put me at 7 degrees of caster.
I read that about Adams as well.
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Cousin Clyde
Hooked
Different direction, but this seems like a lot of exposed spline. Is the shaft the ideal length? Don’t know personally, but I read in another thread that this can cause vibration...
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MericaMade
Active Member
I agree, I have been researching and it sounds like I might need a longer drive shaft now. I read some threads on needed longer shafts with PR44 so I'm searching some more info.
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wjtstudios
Hooked
Take the drive shaft and the measurements from yoke to yoke to a Drive Shaft Shop. I agree, the exposed spline or an out of balance shaft is likely the issue. Regardless that much exposed spline could become an issue at full droop.
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
MericaMade
Active Member
I will do that after work. Got to look for a shop in the SoCal area. Looking closer at the shaft I now notice the different colors on the splines. You can see where the DS sat on the stock front compared to the PR44. You see the blue and brown color lines.
Ugg just one thing after another.
Drove the jeep into work today with the front DS disconnect and it felt great. Need a little fine tuning for stance and maybe a heavier spring rate in the rear.
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Cousin Clyde
Hooked
Nice, sounds like you’re getting it sorted. Almost there.
I don’t have any noticeable driveline vibes, but I want to take my front DS off some time, just to see if it feels any different at highway speeds. However, I’m too lazy. I found a way to grease that little flat zirc in the H block of the double cardan with the shaft still on the Jeep so now it’s never coming off haha.
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MericaMade
Active Member
So can someone please explaine to me why I now need a longer drive shaft with the prorock 44 if the Jeep is sitting in the exact same height and control arms are damn near the same? Is is shorter pinion or something?
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