BlackKnight's Commando Build

Some updates, as the snow melts...

Setup some MOLLE panels for the back of my seats for when I'm heading out Off road...
RMg062c.jpg

YGZzaYL.jpg


And I also did a Drake Fire Extinguisher install...

Alone (with seat in my normal position)
rcDtizS.jpg

Pulling the pin...
CydSInS.jpg

Sitting Normally, one foot on floor, one on Gas
VaDftJu.jpg

Without Extinguisher (please don't mind the dirt, still the winter crud in it..)
kYVAoDi.jpg

With Extinguisher same angle as above
E57r5hO.jpg

Seat all the way back, one foot on brake in normal position (Plenty of room)
Bc1QHdU.jpg


Getting in and out will take about two times to get used to it. Making sure to step into the tray, rather than sliding the foot in prevents kicking it. It does not pop up that much, and when behind the wheel, don't even notice it...


One Note, It took an 18" breaker bar to get the bolts out, Lefty Loose Righty Tightly is the rule (though I was going the wrong way initially), I thought I was going to snap them off trying to get them out.
 
I have the same drake fire extinguisher mount but put it on the passenger side. I knew it would drive me crazy on the driver side. Takes up too much room IMO.
 
Holy Thread Resurrection Batman!!!

Well, CommanDOH! is still going, and still Building, Just been a LONG time since updates...

Just finished putting in the new EVO 4" lift with Fox Shocks all around.

The Current list of Mods/Gear
Suspension/Drivetrain:

EVO 4" Plushrides
EVO Drag Link Flip Kit
JKS HD Track bars, Front and Rear
FOX 2.0 Remote Reservoir shocks
MetalCloak Outboard Shock Mount (Front)
FOX 2.0 Steering Stabilizer (Note I thought the relocation came with, I had to order it, it's going in this weekend)
RockKrawler Swaybar Disconnects
Metalcloak Bumpstops F/R
Rubicon Express/Roughcountry Bumpstop Extensions
Rubicon Express Adjustable Control Arms (All 8)
Terraflex 1.25" Body lift
Poison Spyder Bombshell Diff Armor F/R
Powerstop Z36 Full Kit (Replacement Calipers, Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Performance pads)
EVO Front and Rear extended Brake lines
Teraflex Brake line anchors F/R
K&N CAI
Volante TB Spacer
DIY Oil Catch Can
Optima Yellowtop
Diablo3 Tuner (Reprogrammed for Tire Size, Shift control points, and performance, with options for "OffRoad" setting to spin up Fans)
Unknown Brand 17x9 Aftermarket Rims (Purchased from a Local Club Jeep Recycle page)
Milestar Patagonia MTs 38x13.5R17

Recovery:
Superwinch 9500 w/Synthetic Rope,
Factor55 Prolink
Warn Epic D Rings (x4)
Vault, Tow Strap, Tree Protector

Bumpers/External:
EVO Pro Series Front Bumper
EVO Aluminium Rear Facia
EVO Rear Frame Mounted D Rings
EVO Protec Skid Plates
EVO Pro Series Spare Tire Mount
EVO License Relocation Bracket
LoD Destroyer JKU Sliders
Poison Spyder OEM License Plate Mount Cover
Poison Spyder License plate/3rd brake light
Kentrol Front License plate mount (D Ring tow point)
Bushwacker Flap Fender Flairs F/R
Ace Engineering Front inner fender liners

Interior:
67 Designs JK Double Ball mount, w/ Short Cell Phone Mount (Adding iPad Mount soon)
DIY Interior Painting (Color match Components)
MPS Front Overhead Molle Panel
Door Net Panel Replacements (Hard plastic Door Pockets)
Wild Boar Solid Steel Grab Bars F/R
Tuffy Security Box (Rear Cargo Area) Color matched to the Jeep
Greyman Tactical Seat Back Molle Panels Fron Driver/Passenger
2X Drake Fire Extinguisher mount (front of driver's and passenger's seat)

About a Dozen or more Molle Bags for all my Misc Gear including, but not limited to:
Medical Bag/First Aid Kit/2 Bleed Kits/Wound Control/CPR/Splints, Etc
Entrenching Tool/Survival Gear
Radio Gear/Headsets (CB and FRS/GMRS)
Winch controls
Recovery Straps, Ratchet Straps, Bungies
Tools/Heavy Gloves
Tire Repair
Several Sharp Pokie implements (Knives)
Seat Belt Cutter (Mounted on Overhead Molle Panel)
IMG_2272.JPGIMG_2280.jpegIMG_2282.jpegIMG_2286.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Well, The new Tires are on...

Along whe LoD Destroyer sliders, and Rubicon Express Adjustable Control Arms (all 8).

Went with Milestar Patagonia MTs in 38"x13.5"R17...

IMG_2991.jpeg

Looks a whole lot better with tires large enough to fit the wheel wells with the flat fenders...

Next up (within the next month or so) I'll be occurring back a little on the Fenders and cutting the wheel well pinch seams to allow for the Tires going up into the Wells. Also note that I've pushed out the axles with the adjustable control arms, 2" front, and 1.75 in the rear...
 
Last edited:
Well, Resurrecting this thread with some updates...

Mid-September, Driving down the Highway at 75, let off the glass to get ready to take the exit and....

BANG< BANG, CRUNCH Bang, Bang ....

The engine is still running, but there is no power when the gas is pressed, but the banging is faster. Right off I think Driveshaft... I let off the gas, and drop into Nutral and hazard lights as I try to get from the middle lane of three to the breakdown.

I pull out my Magic Creeper and slide under the Jeep after getting it off the road and e-brake and set into 4WD.

As I slide under I see the Drive shaft... HALF of it... It looks like somehow the drive shaft separated at the slip joint and the back half detached.,
IMG_0662.jpegbut then I look backward and There is nothing connected to the rear Diff? Just a big hole where the Pinion Gear should be.
IMG_0651.jpeg I then look at the side of the Diff, and the gear head of the Pinion is literally punched through the side of the Pumpkin!
IMG_0650.jpeg

I get it limped home, and call my mechanic...

They get it in and pull the Diff cover and they congratulated me, as I had literally destroyed the diff better than the offroad shop had ever seen...

462551341_1549925175898644_2473284617977674304_n.jpg
462544203_1082851106299870_688637705520318462_n.jpg

Next post continues...
 
Oh, and what the driveshaft was held on to was pretty screwed up too, All the bolts rounded off and/or destroyed...
462242181_1078418340601955_2970320116214250047_n.jpg

Well, As that pretty much eliminated the rear end and I'll need basically All of it. I figured now is the time to finally upgrade both axles.
So, I purchased a set of Rubicon Take outs, had them delivered to the Offroad Shop (Offroad Elements in Massachusetts).
462119770_517122054562787_3926862130617254416_n.jpg

So Here is the list of Upgrades:
Axle Front:
Rubicon OEM Front Axel (with Eaton E-Locker and 4:10 Gears)
EVO MFG ProTek Front Axle Truss Dana 44 | with EVO C2 Gussets
EVO MFG Front Control Arm Skids
American Iron Offroad Gen. 2 Ball Joint Delete System | D30/44
TEN Factory Front Axle Tube Seals
TEN Factory ChroMo Axles
MetalCloak Outboard Shock Mount (Front)
Adams Driveshaft Front 1350 CV Driveshaft Solid U-Joint
Axel, Rear:
Rubicon OEM Rear Axel (with Eaton E-Locker and 4:10 Gears)
EVO MFG ProTek Rear Axle Truss
EVO MFG Rock Star Control Arm/Shock end Skids (Rear)
Artec Rear Track Bar Bracket | Factory D44 Axle
TEN Factory ChroMo Axles
Dana Spicer E-Locker Harness
Adams Driveshaft Rear 1350 CV Driveshaft Solid U-Joint

Rear Installed:
462547785_1057603512288563_4997805246865973656_n.jpg
Front being Prepped for Install:
462562832_1324192395217602_6574173617028753476_n.jpg

Should be finished tomorrow, but then Alignment and test drives including wheel travel tests and making sure all the wheel travel is setup correctly (Bumpstops and limiters to make sure nothing bottoms out). I'm figuring I'll have it back Friday and then can pull the OEM diff covers and replace them with the Poison Spider Bombshell Covers...

IMG_1256.jpeg

Can't wait to have her back, Been a Month since she broke down. My Wallet though... It's painful at around $12.5K, but the guys at Offroad Elements in abington MA are Excelent and very much know their shit...
 
Well, Resurrecting this thread with some updates...

Mid-September, Driving down the Highway at 75, let off the glass to get ready to take the exit and....

BANG< BANG, CRUNCH Bang, Bang ....

The engine is still running, but there is no power when the gas is pressed, but the banging is faster. Right off I think Driveshaft... I let off the gas, and drop into Nutral and hazard lights as I try to get from the middle lane of three to the breakdown.

I pull out my Magic Creeper and slide under the Jeep after getting it off the road and e-brake and set into 4WD.

As I slide under I see the Drive shaft... HALF of it... It looks like somehow the drive shaft separated at the slip joint and the back half detached.,
View attachment 415403but then I look backward and There is nothing connected to the rear Diff? Just a big hole where the Pinion Gear should be.
View attachment 415404 I then look at the side of the Diff, and the gear head of the Pinion is literally punched through the side of the Pumpkin!
View attachment 415405

I get it limped home, and call my mechanic...

They get it in and pull the Diff cover and they congratulated me, as I had literally destroyed the diff better than the offroad shop had ever seen...

View attachment 415406
View attachment 415407

Next post continues...
How could you have not heard noise weeks/months ago? Looks like that started a long time ago.
 
How could you have not heard noise weeks/months ago? Looks like that started a long time ago.
Never heard a thing, Putting it in gear once in a while would "clink", but it's been doing that since I got it. The guys at the shop looked at the Pinion and there looked to be some stress cracks on it in other places than where it let go, so they were thinking that it heated up and just detonated. Possibly the Fluid wasn't getting up far enough to the bearings of the Piniion and it super heated (wasn't throwing properly).

I changed my Diff fluid every 15-20K and every other change was a Cover-off clean-out to make sure things were ok with the Ring gear etc. Never had any metal chips in the fluid only the typically metal fuzz on the drain plug...

The previous change was 2K before this happened, the previous cover-off was ~19K before the incident. The Axle has 127K miles on it.
 
I’m not doubting you but when I first read this it reminded me of back when I used to work in my dads shop and customers would come in and be like “front wheel just started making noise” and you test the wheel bearing and the front tire was about to fall off as it was so worn lol. Pretty wild damage tho and thinking you’ll love the rebuild.
 
So here is my Current Build List::
Axles/Driveline/Suspension:

Axel, Both:

Powerstop Z36 Performance Brake Kit (Replacement Calipers, Carriers, Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Performance pads)
EVO Front and Rear Extended Brake lines
Terraflex Brake line anchors F/R
Poison Spyder Bombshell Diff Armor Front/Rear
Metalcloak Bump stops F/R
Rubicon Express/Rough Country Bump Stop Extensions

Axle Front:
Rubicon OEM Front Axel (with Eaton E-Locker and 4:10 Gears)
EVO MFG ProTek Front Axle Truss Dana 44 | with EVO C2 Gussets
EVO MFG Front Control Arm Skids
American Iron Offroad Gen. 2 Ball Joint Delete System | D30/44
TEN Factory Front Axle Tube Seals
TEN Factory ChroMo Axles
MetalCloak Outboard Shock Mount (Front)
FOX 2.0 Steering Stabilizer
Fox Steering Stabilizer Relocation Kit
RockKrawler Sway bar Disconnects
Adams Driveshaft Front 1350 CV Driveshaft Solid U-Joint

Axel, Rear:
Rubicon OEM Rear Axel (with Eaton E-Locker and 4:10 Gears)
EVO MFG ProTek Rear Axle Truss
EVO MFG Rock Star Control Arm/Shock end Skids (Rear)
Artec Rear Track Bar Bracket | Factory D44 Axle
Dana Spicer E-Locker Harness
TEN Factory ChroMo Axles
Adams Driveshaft Rear 1350 CV Driveshaft Solid U-Joint

Driveline:
ATS Diesel Stage II NAG1 Performance Transmission (2.5K miles)
K&N Cold Air Intake
Volante Throttle Body Spacer
DIY Oil Catch Can
Optima Yellow top
Diablo3 Tuner (Reprogrammed for Tire Size, Gearing, Shift control points, and performance, with options for "OffRoad" setting to spin up Fans)

Suspension:
EVO 4" Plush-rides
EVO Drag Link Flip Kit
Synergy Manufacturing Drag Link Flip Adapter
JKS HD Track bars, Front and Rear
Synergy Front Trackbar Relocation bracket
Synergy Track Bar/Steering Stabilizer Mount Stud
Rubicon Express Adjustable Control Arms x8 (Front and rear, upper and lower)
FOX 2.0 Remote Reservoir shocks
Terraflex 1.25" Body lift
Unknown Brand 17x9 Aftermarket Rims (Purchased from a Local Club Jeep Recycle page)
MileStar Patagonia MTs 38”x13.5”R17
Additionally, a set of 5, OEM 5 spoke 17" rims with General G2 35" tires (for inspections if needed)

Recovery/Air:
SuperWinch 9500 w/Synthetic Rope,
Factor55 Pro-link
Warn Epic D Rings (x4)
Vault, Tow Strap, Tree Protector
Smittybuilt 2871 5.6CFM portable Compressor with Modifications (Pressure Shutoff, Converted to American standard Connections)
Custom DIY 4 wheel Inflation rig
911 Motorsports Off-Road Jack (Converted 2.5-ton Harbor Freight Racing Jack, mounted on Tuffy security box)

Bumpers/External:
EVO Pro Series Front Bumper
EVO Aluminum Rear Facia
EVO Rear Frame Mounted D Rings
EVO ProTek Skid Plates
EVO Pro Series Spare Tire Mount
EVO License Relocation Bracket
LoD Destroyer JKU slider steps
Poison Spyder OEM License Plate hole Cover
Poison Spyder License plate/3rd brake light
Kentrol Front License plate mount (D Ring tow point)
Bushwacker Flat Fender Flairs F/R
Ace Engineering Front inner fender liners Front
OEM Hardtop with Freedom Panels
Bestop Trektop Glide Slant back Soft-top, Black Twill
Drake Offroad Billet Aluminum locking gas cap

Interior:
Sony XAV AX6000 7” display w/navigation and SXM radio
Kicker plug-and-play hideaway amplified 10” subwoofer
IBeam backup camera
VoSwitch 8 Switch Programmable Control System
67 Designs JK Double Ball mount, w/ Short Cell Phone Mount (Adding iPad Mount soon)
DIY Interior Painting (Color match Components)
MPS Front Overhead Molle Panel
Door Net Panel Replacements (Hard plastic Door Pockets)
Wild Boar Solid Steel Grab Bars F/R
Tuffy Security Box (Rear Cargo Area) Color matched to the Jeep
Greyman Tactical Seat Back Molle Panels Front Driver/Passenger
Drake Fire Extinguisher mounts (front of drivers and Passenger seat)
Smittybuilt Tailgate Molle Panel

Miscellaneous:
About a Dozen or more Molle Bags for all my Misc Gear including, but not limited to:
Tool kit
Medical Bag/First Aid Kit/2 Bleed Kits/Wound Control/CPR/Splints, Etc
Entrenching Tool/Survival Gear
Radio Gear/Headsets (CB and FRS/GMRS)
Winch controls
Recovery Straps, Ratchet Straps, Bungees
Tools/Heavy Gloves
Tire Repair
Seat Belt Cutter (Mounted on Overhead Molle Panel)
 
I’m not doubting you but when I first read this it reminded me of back when I used to work in my dads shop and customers would come in and be like “front wheel just started making noise” and you test the wheel bearing and the front tire was about to fall off as it was so worn lol. Pretty wild damage tho and thinking you’ll love the rebuild.
I worked in my uncle's Shop from 13-18, and I hear what your saying. But I am serious, never heard any complaints from the Rear end...

Yes, thanks, Looking forward to getting her back. I expect it will be a lot more fun to drive (the move from Stock Sport Axles D30 front, D44 rear, and no lockers, to Rubi axles with all the upgrades and lockers)...

Also, an update that I forgot. I melted my Trans about 2500 miles back (around 124K miles) and replaced it with an ATS Diesel Stage II NAG1 Performance Transmission. Much better internals/Upgrades and should handle up to 700HP, not that my 3.6 will ever make that much...

 
Last edited:
$12,500 for some old rusted out Rubicon takeoff axles:oops:
Yeah, Painful
4K for the take-outs shipped, the cheapest I could find anywhere near New England (New Jersey).
4.5K for the Upgrades/Addons/Trussing-Armor, rebuild, Media Blast, and paint
4.5K for the Welding and Installation at the shop...

Here on the East Coast, we don't get into tires much bigger than 37"/38"s on a Daily Driver, (Massachusetts is a Bitch when it comes to Road Inspections) so the D44s should be more than adequate. The 1-Ton Route was going to be over 16K.
 
Yeah, Painful
4K for the take-outs shipped, the cheapest I could find anywhere near New England (New Jersey).
4.5K for the Upgrades/Addons/Trussing-Armor, rebuild, Media Blast, and paint
4.5K for the Welding and Installation at the shop...

Here on the East Coast, we don't get into tires much bigger than 37"/38"s on a Daily Driver, (Massachusetts is a Bitch when it comes to Road Inspections) so the D44s should be more than adequate. The 1-Ton Route was going to be over 16K.
It would have been more than $16k but you got hosed all around on that deal. That shop raped you for $9k for a simple axle install and the. $4500 for some rusted old takeoffs is far too much.
 
Top Bottom