Ball Joints U-Joints Wheel Bearings & Axles

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UNLIMITED_FUN

New member
This week I'm doing the project, and yesterday took off most of the parts. I still need to remove the ball joints and u-joints today.

I was surprised to find that the seal on the axle didn't meet the body and the axles are that rusted.

When I put them back in, is there a trick to seating these seals again to prevent water from entering that axle cavity?







 
No there isn't. They are kind of pointless anyway cause they don't do a good job of keeping stuff out as it is
 
It's not abnormal for that boot/seal to not be completely flush. Don't concern yourself with it. If water gets in there, it comes right out. You want water to be able to exit the tubes if it does get in there near the tube ends. Axle being rusty like that is pretty normal too.

Your real axle oil seals are inside the tubes right where they meet the pumpkin.
 
Thanks, I couldn't see where it really affected the operation of it all, but if there's something I need to re grease etc this is the time to get to it.

Thx for the quick replies!

Ok back to work . . .
 
So I got both ball joints off one side, and the Synergy upper and lower back on and straight using a shim. But the other side, holy freakin . . . I can't get it, I've worn myself out. I even ejected the inner shaft hoping that might help, but it's a no go. I have a 1\2 bar about 30 inches long and even with a little cheater extension, I've gone as far as I have the strength to go, I can't make a smidgen of a turn more.

Maybe being under pressure over time will help it budge, but at this point I'm dead in the water with the project.
 
UNLIMITED_FUN said:
So I got both ball joints off one side, and the Synergy upper and lower back on and straight using a shim. But the other side, holy freakin . . . I can't get it, I've worn myself out. I even ejected the inner shaft hoping that might help, but it's a no go. I have a 1\2 bar about 30 inches long and even with a little cheater extension, I've gone as far as I have the strength to go, I can't make a smidgen of a turn more.

Maybe being under pressure over time will help it budge, but at this point I'm dead in the water with the project.
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Apply some heat if you can't get the old ones out
 
yep.. heat then repeat :)
Also.. are you sure you have setup the press the right way and not just jamming it in further? (just checking)
 
I've had one take us 2 hrs alone. Heat repeat works wonders as mentioned, bang on the outer with a hammer helped too. We bent the press from harbor freight doing it too.
 
Smack the C with a mallet when there's pressure on it. The shock will sometime make them pop.

I just changed mine, one side took 2 hours (my clamp was bent).

Rented a good one, the other side was about an hour. Minus finding tools.
 
Thx guys, you're right I just needed the torch and BFH, it's done now.

4 pressed out, 3 pressed in . . . I'm running out of gas for the day.
 
I was in the same spot as you and found that a four foot section of metal pipe that fit over the cheater bar did the trick. Crazy how much that increases torque.
 
Ya I wish I had something longer to fit over the 1\2" x 30" bar I have, but I don't.

When I was removing those 5 bolts and 2 nuts it was butter, they can out so easily. My early confidences were amiss.

Oh and for some reason I can't find one of the damned bolts, I hope one of those big vulture looking crows didn't snag it. And of course it's almost the same color as the drive and surrounding areas.

Man, I'm sore this morning after 2 days of exercise and wrenching.
 
UNLIMITED_FUN said:
Ya I wish I had something longer to fit over the 1\2" x 30" bar I have, but I don't.

When I was removing those 5 bolts and 2 nuts it was butter, they can out so easily. My early confidences were amiss.

Oh and for some reason I can't find one of the damned bolts, I hope one of those big vulture looking crows didn't snag it. And of course it's almost the same color as the drive and surrounding areas.

Man, I'm sore this morning after 2 days of exercise and wrenching.
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High lift handle is a good bar for leverage
 
I feel the pain. And it sure would have been nice to have the nice lift to get the Jeep up to correct working height. Working on the ground makes it at least twice as hard.
 
"High lift handle is a good bar for leverage"

The shame . . . I can't see the forest for the trees.

THIS is why I post across forums, I need the voice of reasoning and common sense!
 
UNLIMITED_FUN said:
"High lift handle is a good bar for leverage"

The shame . . . I can't see the forest for the trees.

THIS is why I post across forums, I need the voice of reasoning and common sense!
Click to expand...

It's the only good use for a high lift I have found !

I use that handle all the time, if it's misplaced. I grab the floor Jack handle
 
LOL wow, I looked at the floor jack and said " I don't want to unbolt that handle, it's not much longer than the tube I already have". But is does have a cushy rubber grip on it!

On the second lower ball joint, it looks like I still need to go up about 1\8th of an inch. *sigh*
 
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Yesterday I got the last smidgen on the lower ball joint and pressed the upper one completely, all finish the ball joint pressing.

Then I moved on to the u-joints and was able to BFH them in to submission and got the old u-joints out.

But pressing the new ones in . . . equally as difficult as the ball joints. I don't have a big bench vise and the c-clamp isn't nearly gonna cut it.

I used the hydraulic jack and the frame of the truck and got some caps pressed, but even that won't get it all.

Besides taking them someone in a vehicle I don't have atm, any ideas? I need to finish this by tomorrow while the weather holds out.
 
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