Are You Happy with Your EVO Bolt-On Coil Over Springs?

Are you happy with the spring rates that came on your EVO Bolt-On Coil Overs?

  • Yes, I am competely satified with the spring rates I got out of the box.

    Votes: 20 33.9%

  • No. I wish they came with a softer spring rate

    Votes: 5 8.5%

  • No. I wish they came with a heavier spring rate

    Votes: 34 57.6%
  • Total voters
    59
tgoss said:
This is the exact same spec PAC springs I just ordered yesterday along with AGM sliders.
Click to expand...

I have the EVO bolt on coilovers, JKU, 60's, 40's, had 12-250/12-250 front, 10-200/12-250 rear, and was bottoming out. I just bought one pair of HD front springs 12-300 put them in the front and took the front 12-250 and swap them with the rear 10-200. So now the rear has 12-250/12-250, fixed the bottoming out problem for $150.
 
utiadam said:
Just to bring this back to life..... Here's my new PAC springs
View attachment 198887
View attachment 198888
View attachment 198889
Here's a closeup of my preload and timing rings
View attachment 198890
View attachment 198891
View attachment 198892
View attachment 198893
View attachment 198894
View attachment 198895
View attachment 198896
View attachment 198897
The ride is so much better and I'm not hitting the bump stops like before. I hit about 75mph on a washboard road earlier today and was very pleased with the ride. A friend was watching me come towards them and said the suspension was going crazy but the body was flat.
Click to expand...

I have 40's, rock jock 60's on my JKU, what I did was replace the front lower 12-250 with a 12-300. Took the 12-250 from the front, swap it with the rear 10-200 spring. So the rear is stack with 12-250/12-250. In total it cost $150 for the HD 12-300 spring. No more issues with bottoming out and I can load the Jeep with passengers and gear again.
 
Hey there -
Read every page of this thread, great info. I think I have an idea of where to go but would love any advice.

I have the out of the box Evo King JK setup:
-Front 12" upper/12" lower - 250/250
-Rear 10" upper/12" lower - 200/250
-Don't know nitrogen pressure yet, kit on order from Schmidty Racing to check/fill.

Front seems fine. Like everyone else, I'm bottoming out in back when loaded, even with a lot of pre-load dialed in. I don't really want to buy 8 new PAC springs, so I'm thinking 250/300 or 300/350 Kings in the rear. I saw the posts before mine talk about swapping a 12" coil to the rear upper, is that a good idea? I'd think a 10" at higher spring rate would be the reco'd option. But I like cheap solutions (the $150 mentioned) so I'm happy to consider.

Thanks to this thread I'll also have to check out whether the strengthening bracket is hitting the tub. There's so many bumps and rattles that may just be one of them!

IMG_0006.jpg
 
I think I'm going to try this route. A shop I talked to says two 12s on the rear is fine. And bguerrero's solution may solve my excessive preload (both ends) and bottoming out (rear). Worth a shot for $150. Even if I need to do more swapping around, can't hurt to have the 12-300 springs to experiment with.

Thx, all.

bguerrero said:
I have 40's, rock jock 60's on my JKU, what I did was replace the front lower 12-250 with a 12-300. Took the 12-250 from the front, swap it with the rear 10-200 spring. So the rear is stack with 12-250/12-250. In total it cost $150 for the HD 12-300 spring. No more issues with bottoming out and I can load the Jeep with passengers and gear again.
Click to expand...
 
I was trying to find a better place to ask but I think this will due.

Are the rear bolt-one mounted in the same upper position as the regular shock or are they further back.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
19,000 mile update

This is the best ride I've had in my Jeep, on and off road. I'm running 250/300 all 4 corners with compression adjusters. I run the adjusters in the middle most of the time and crank up when going fast in the desert. I do wish the middle setting was the lowest though so I could dial it up even firmer. Might change the valving when I need to rebuild them eventually to compensate for this. I have Zeon 10 steel line up front and carry a heavy toolbox and gear in the back all the time and this setup works good for me.

But I love everything about this setup—couldn't be happier. I am also running front/rear EVO airbumps as well.
 
Last edited:
micahd said:
I think I'm going to try this route. A shop I talked to says two 12s on the rear is fine. And bguerrero's solution may solve my excessive preload (both ends) and bottoming out (rear). Worth a shot for $150. Even if I need to do more swapping around, can't hurt to have the 12-300 springs to experiment with.

Thx, all.
Click to expand...

Did replacing the rear coils with a 12 inch coil solve your problem?
 
Recently I came across a pair of rear King CO's for a fair deal and didn't want to pass it up so I ended up grabbing them. They are the standard ORE spec versions with the standard off the shelf springs. I started doing more serious research, including this thread, and came to the conclusion that getting these spring rates correct the first time is are pretty much a frustrating hit & miss deal. I came across a company, PAC Racing Springs, that offers custom spring ranges. They may have even been mentioned in this thread, hell I looked at so many I can't remember where I saw them. Regardless, I called them today to ask if there is some kind of guide that helps to narrow down the choices. The tech I spoke with gave me a suggested procedure to follow that helps you pick what you really need.

This is the cliffnotes version of the procedure:
Once you have the initial install all done & sorted out, take each CO back off and remove the top spring and replace it with a piece of PVC pipe of the same length, (probably 2" schedule 40 would work). re-install each CO and measure how much the bottom spring compresses and based on that, it will give you what that corner's weight is. Do this with all 4 corners and you'll see basically how much preload you'll need and can order springs accordingly.

I'm not 100% versed in CO tech, so I plan on much more research before I end up installing, but this gave me some comfort knowing there is a better way to dial in your ride instead of just buying a shitload of springs and hoping for the best.

Edit: Obviously, this method will work for any brand and there are other spring companies, including King that offer different spring rates. I just came across these guys first.
 
Last edited:
Ddays said:
Recently I came across a pair of rear King CO's for a fair deal and didn't want to pass it up so I ended up grabbing them. They are the standard ORE spec versions with the standard off the shelf springs. I started doing more serious research, including this thread, and came to the conclusion that getting these spring rates correct the first time is are pretty much a frustrating hit & miss deal. I came across a company, PAC Racing Springs, that offers custom spring ranges. They may have even been mentioned in this thread, hell I looked at so many I can't remember where I saw them. Regardless, I called them today to ask if there is some kind of guide that helps to narrow down the choices. The tech I spoke with gave me a suggested procedure to follow that helps you pick what you really need.

This is the cliffnotes version of the procedure:
Once you have the initial install all done & sorted out, take each CO back off and remove the top spring and replace it with a piece of PVC pipe of the same length, (probably 2" schedule 40 would work). re-install each CO and measure how much the bottom spring compresses and based on that, it will give you what that corner's weight is. Do this with all 4 corners and you'll see basically how much preload you'll need and can order springs accordingly.

I'm not 100% versed in CO tech, so I plan on much more research before I end up installing, but this gave me some comfort knowing there is a better way to dial in your ride instead of just buying a shitload of springs and hoping for the best.

Edit: Obviously, this method will work for any brand and there are other spring companies, including King that offer different spring rates. I just came across these guys first.
Click to expand...

And so it begins .... 🤣


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Ddays said:
LOL, I couldn't pass the deal up and it's been an itch for a couple years now. :rolleyes2:
Click to expand...

Hey, no judgment from me. Probably better than half the shit on my Jeep was a “want” rather than a “need.” Especially if I could get a “deal.” [emoji23]

By the way, hows the new TC working out? No more explosions I hope. [emoji50]


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Last edited:
cozdude said:
Be ready for the salt/brine to tear them apart like they have mine.
Click to expand...

I hear ya. I'm lucky in that this isn't my DD so I can be selective with my outings in the snow. So far my King shocks have held up reasonably well over the past 2 Winters as I'm careful to stay off the roads when they lay that goddam brine shit down. It's worse than the salt.
 
Ddays said:
Recently I came across a pair of rear King CO's for a fair deal and didn't want to pass it up so I ended up grabbing them. They are the standard ORE spec versions with the standard off the shelf springs. I started doing more serious research, including this thread, and came to the conclusion that getting these spring rates correct the first time is are pretty much a frustrating hit & miss deal. I came across a company, PAC Racing Springs, that offers custom spring ranges. They may have even been mentioned in this thread, hell I looked at so many I can't remember where I saw them. Regardless, I called them today to ask if there is some kind of guide that helps to narrow down the choices. The tech I spoke with gave me a suggested procedure to follow that helps you pick what you really need.

This is the cliffnotes version of the procedure:
Once you have the initial install all done & sorted out, take each CO back off and remove the top spring and replace it with a piece of PVC pipe of the same length, (probably 2" schedule 40 would work). re-install each CO and measure how much the bottom spring compresses and based on that, it will give you what that corner's weight is. Do this with all 4 corners and you'll see basically how much preload you'll need and can order springs accordingly.

I'm not 100% versed in CO tech, so I plan on much more research before I end up installing, but this gave me some comfort knowing there is a better way to dial in your ride instead of just buying a shitload of springs and hoping for the best.

Edit: Obviously, this method will work for any brand and there are other spring companies, including King that offer different spring rates. I just came across these guys first.
Click to expand...

I’m assuming this same method would work with the lever set up as well? Or I at least hope it will. I’m getting closer to pulling the trigger on that big project.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom